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Even w/ the EK console, your shift cables would be running through the cup holders as shown:


You will need to cut your chassis tunnel and mount similar to these images to avoid cable interference w/ the shift boot. While you are doing that, you might as well make it low enough so you don't have to cut a hole in your firewall to run cables, yet run them under the tunnel.







I'll have some pics to show of a prototype soon, and be able to offer a complete kit shortly.
 

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I'm glad you guys think so... I still feel like a failure since I had promised that my other shifter box assembly would be released a while ago, yet since it didn't stack up to my standards, I couldn't. I think this way will be a very inexpensive solution w/ as minimal work as necessary.
 

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i was thinking the same thing. and with your resourses you can produce a very nice looking piece compaired to the jagged edged, crappy bent pieces that we have all been making at home :up: .

oh yeah just like i said about your first piece. you can send me a piece to try out if you'd like :D .
 

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98specR said:
...compaired to the jagged edged, crappy bent pieces that we have all been making at home :up: .
Hey!!! :( :wink:

The new design looks awsome karcepts... :up:
 

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98specR said:
with the exception of a few really good ones...cough#2cough... :wink:
LOL. I was just kidding bro. :D

I actually decided against using that one right now anyways.
 

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#2 said:
Hey!!! :( :wink:

The new design looks awsome karcepts... :up:
Well, you guys inspired me to do so w/ your creations, so I have to thank you guys for that. Lowering it a little more than what you guys had seemed to be necessary to not have your shift boot get all mangled at the cable attachment point (especially w/ the EG console). I guess it would be fine w/ the rsx shifter, since the attachment point is lower than a revo, but this design will accommodate both. Running the cables under the chassis I think is also a big plus. I still don't really like having to hack up the tunnel area, but I tried to keep the modifications to a minimum. I’ll provide a template of what needs to be cut where so that no unnecessary cutting is performed. I was also able to utilize the factory welded on nuts for attachment on the rear, which I think is also a benefit. Because of this, no holes or anything will need to be drilled in the side of the tunnel under the carpet either (it looks like hybrid’s prototype design requires that, but I may be mistaken).
 

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wow this is exciting Karcepts, let us know when your done. you got yourself a buyer here, dont want to lose my rare ctr cupholder haha
 

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what kind of time frame are we looking at on this shifter set up?also what price tag are we looking at for this kit?
 

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yellowman said:
what kind of time frame are we looking at on this shifter set up?also what price tag are we looking at for this kit?
Those are difficult questions right now for me to answer, as what I've shown is not yet reality. I will be finished fabbing the prototype today and let you guys know early next week if not this weekend how everything goes (w/ pics). Basically what needs to happen is that I check out the fitment of the prototype on all three chassis (which I have), see what areas I can seal up better or make minor adjustments to, revise the drawings, make another updated prototype, do one last check, then prepare the prints to be sent to my outsourcer which has a lead time of 2-4 weeks. Best case would be 4 weeks, worst case, maybe 8. As for price, I will still need a quote from my outsourcer. I cannot see it being much, though I don't know w/ some of the funky bends on the parts. There is no way it would be more than $150, but hopefully it will be in the sub-$100 range. It's too early to tell. These are the best answers I can give right now...

Also if you are wondering, material will be 304SS of course, for its corrosion resistance as well as having one of the lowest values of thermal conductivity of all metals. Good heat insulators are substances that are poor conductors of heat. Poor conductivity = low heat transfer between your exhaust and the shifter area! For an example, compared w/ the steel your Honda chassis is comprised of, 304SS is about 4 times less conductive. Compared w/ the common 6061-T6 aluminum, 304SS is near 17 times less conductive. So if you are at all worried about excessive heat from the exhaust, you shouldn't.
 

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Ok guys, here is reality...















With how well this first prototype fit, I'm thinking I may be able to offer this in just a little over a month from now. Right now the major flaw is the misjudgment of the shifter tunnel dimensions near the front side of the mount. As displayed in the picture, I have a little bit of gap that will be no issue to tighten up. If desired, a little high temp silicone may be used to have a completely sealed enclosure; however, w/ my experiences w/ my other designs, I don't see a lot of excess air or heat to dissipate through the little gaps it may have.

One minor negative I see that I just wanted to point out to everyone is the location of where your shift knob would be. In the last pic you can see that compared w/ the factory location, your rsx or revo shifter will be about .75" more forward. The shafts actually line up near the base, but the factory shaft has the little kink in it near the top to bring it back that .75". The fact that the throw of the stock rsx shifter is so short in comparison to the d or b-series shifting, you may actually not be reaching any more forward for your 1st, 3rd, or 5th gears. I believe that w/ the revo shifter, the forward reach will be even less compared to d or b-series even though the neutral position is .75" more forward. I think I can close the distance up maybe .25"-.38" more than what this 1st prototype currently is, so really, no biggie...

Also, the shifter mount fits identically as snug within the tunnel of the dc2 and ek. I mounted just the shifter mount to those tunnels w/o the shifter box to observe this. I still need to cut out those tunnels so that I can mount the shifter box through and slap the consoles on, but I will share that shortly for those who want verification.

The only other concerns right now are fitment w/ the higher output headers. Unlike the tsx, dc sports, or hasport headers, the dtr & r-crew headers are much longer. Because of this, their flanges end near the shifter area and could interfere w/ the shifter mount. I really don't think there will be any interference issues as the mount doesn't hang very low (you can see the hangers installed are way far away showing that your factory exhaust path would have zero issues; however, the header is what will be predicting your new exhaust path. It all depends on how the header companies designed their products.), but I will be confirming this shortly. Lastly, I also need to confirm that the cables will be long enough when using an ek w/ the older hasport mount kit (since motor position is more forward). I will also have that information soon.
 

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haolerot said:
:wow:daaaammmmmn...nice pics...i hope you have them up for sale in like 2 months. Put me down for one.
No problem haolerot!

Actually, anyone who is interested, please PM me so that I can get a good idea of how many I will need to manufacture for the first run. I do not need your money, nor will you be committed to purchase. That would obviously be unfair since I don't even have a price for this yet. I'm just curious as to the interest in this product.

Thanks a lot,
Brian Karwan
Karcepts, Inc.
 

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drhonda said:
looks great! How sturdy is it? What's the thickness of that sheet metal? I just curious because if somone shifts real hard will anything bend? I'm sure you've already thought of this but as an engineer it came to mind. good job.
Thanks for the question/concern. I won't give away the material thickness right now, but it is thicker than the two layers of sandwiched sheet metal that your tunnel is comprised of. I ran through the calculations real quick and found that if you applied a force of 200 lbs. downward onto the shifter, you could only deflect the shifter mount 1/32nd of an inch. Only a small component of force gets applied downward since most of the force is front to back movements. If you were a crazy man that applied 30 lbs. of force to shift forward (1st, 3rd, 5th) or backward (2nd, 4th, 6th), that would maybe translate to 5 lbs. downward. Trust me, the thing is a tank. I stood on the shifter and could not see the 1/32nd inch of deflection. But 1/32nd's of an inch is pretty small, and I don't quite weigh 200 lbs... :D

If you are worried about front to back movements, each fastener is rated at 70,000 psi (minimum tensile strength). Multiply that times 4 (4 bolts holding it in), and it's not going anywhere!
 
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