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The last little tidbit... Sometimes people have an old style K24 oil pump chain guide. That's ok but, if you do you will probably have to cut it to work. This is pictured below. Also, you will need a K24, not K20, Chain Tensioner guide. This is the one that's on the right side if looking at the crank snout and has a crescent moon shaped piece of nylon on the metal.



Hope this helps!

Here is a picture of a K20 chain guide, which doesnt have to be cut. Just to show what it looks like, and how it lines up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
It is strongly recommended to replace BOTH the oil chain tensioner (part number 5) and oil chain guide (part number 6) any time you replace the oil pump or remove the oil chain...as well as the O-ring for the chain case cover:


Part numbers:
oil chain tensioner - 13450-RAA-A02
oil chain guide - 13460-PNA-004
O-ring, chain case - 91302-PNA-004
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
The ERL supplied bolt did not fit and we did not feel like tapping the oil jet hole....luckily, my buddy had a box of bolts and one fit perfectly. I don't remember what size, but I'll update this post when I find out.




We had to trim the windage tray to fit over the larger bolt, but finally got the S2K pump mounted up:




Unfortunately, the bolts for the oil chain tensioner no longer fit due to the S2000 mounting plate...so these had to be cut down:




And then the oil chain tensioner mounted up just fine. I also had to cut down the nylon chain guide which I didn't expect....I figured the later model K24 guides would not need trimming:




All back together:
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Really good info in this link...props to kommon sense:up:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22676&highlight=oil+baffle&page=2

Apparently, oil pressure is lost on left hand turns due to oil migration into the timing chain case (rather than right hand turns with oil migration to the opposite side of the pan from the pump).

The ERL adaptor plate extends the height of the oil pump and places the pump closer to the pan (potentially closing off the route for oil migration).

I meant to weld an AN fitting to the pan and mount an oil pressure gauge to the dash...Unfortunately, I just bolted my pan onto the block:eek:
 

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My understanding is that the k20 chain guide will not work with the S2000 pump...did you mean to say K24 chain guide?
Nope, this is a K20 chain guide. Now its off of my original K20A block, but I dont think that its different from a K20A2 but never checked.
 

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Back to the oil hole discussion.

I had a little bit of time this morning and looked into the oil hole from the pump.

What I can see is that the hole is there even on a k20a2 block and its blocked off by the stock k20a2 pump. So it must be there for the a3 blocks that use the ballance shafts and need that hole for lubrication.

The oil pressure comes from the oil gallery, through the tensioner and then to the bottom of the block for the a3 pumps ballance shafts.

On the a2 block the hole is still there and it is blocked by the a2 pump.

So my conclusion is that the hole is needed only for the pumps with ballance shafts and should be blocked off on any other pump that does not use the ballance shafts.

Is this what everyone concluded on this???

Stefan
 

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^You are correct:up:

I haven't gotten my hands on a k20 pan, but I don't understand why the k20 baffles won't work in a k24 pan...is it just the depth that's different?
the depth, the shape of the insides, and the location of the s2k oil pump pickup
 

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Back to the oil hole discussion.

I had a little bit of time this morning and looked into the oil hole from the pump.

What I can see is that the hole is there even on a k20a2 block and its blocked off by the stock k20a2 pump. So it must be there for the a3 blocks that use the ballance shafts and need that hole for lubrication.

The oil pressure comes from the oil gallery, through the tensioner and then to the bottom of the block for the a3 pumps ballance shafts.

On the a2 block the hole is still there and it is blocked by the a2 pump.

So my conclusion is that the hole is needed only for the pumps with ballance shafts and should be blocked off on any other pump that does not use the ballance shafts.

Is this what everyone concluded on this???

Stefan
Yes. Every one of the A2's I have taken apart had a plug in the oil passage that is used with balance shaft oil pumps. The engines with balance shaft oil pumps have a restrictor/jet inserted into this location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Back to the oil hole discussion.

I had a little bit of time this morning and looked into the oil hole from the pump.

What I can see is that the hole is there even on a k20a2 block and its blocked off by the stock k20a2 pump. So it must be there for the a3 blocks that use the ballance shafts and need that hole for lubrication.

The oil pressure comes from the oil gallery, through the tensioner and then to the bottom of the block for the a3 pumps ballance shafts.

On the a2 block the hole is still there and it is blocked by the a2 pump.

So my conclusion is that the hole is needed only for the pumps with ballance shafts and should be blocked off on any other pump that does not use the ballance shafts.

Is this what everyone concluded on this???

Stefan
You got it:up:
 

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Yes. Every one of the A2's I have taken apart had a plug in the oil passage that is used with balance shaft oil pumps. The engines with balance shaft oil pumps have a restrictor/jet inserted into this location.

Thats not the hole that they are talking about. See below which is the first post of the thread.....


I am swapping an ERL S2K oil pump onto my k24a2. I realize that I need to block off the oil jet hole.

My question relates to the passage feeding the timing chain tensioner.




Shown here with the corresponding port on K24a2 oil pump:




And a better view of the port from the k24a2 oil pump:




Here is a picture of the block showing oil passage behind the timing chain tensioner. The red arrow shows the port corresponding to the K24a2 pump. The green arrows show the passage of oil (high pressure) circulating behind the timing chain tensioner:




And here is where the oil eventually meets the timing chain tensioner and ultimately lubricates the timing chain itself:




My concern is that the ERL S2K pump doesn't have the port to supply the timing chain...instead what you see is the end of a bolt that lines up with the oil port on the k24a2 block:




Any help would be GREATLY appreciated:up::heart::up:
 

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Back to the oil hole discussion.

I had a little bit of time this morning and looked into the oil hole from the pump.

What I can see is that the hole is there even on a k20a2 block and its blocked off by the stock k20a2 pump. So it must be there for the a3 blocks that use the ballance shafts and need that hole for lubrication.

The oil pressure comes from the oil gallery, through the tensioner and then to the bottom of the block for the a3 pumps ballance shafts.

On the a2 block the hole is still there and it is blocked by the a2 pump.

So my conclusion is that the hole is needed only for the pumps with ballance shafts and should be blocked off on any other pump that does not use the ballance shafts.

Is this what everyone concluded on this???

Stefan
Yep, Stefan called me today and we discussed it I agree with everything he said. I have always blocked that hole off, with both the s2000 pump and A2 pump.

If you have the girdle apart you can block that hole off from the top side, it doesn't require any drilling because the hole is tapered so it is much larger on the top side, and you just run a 1/8 npt tap and plug it up.

I have done that on probably 4 or 5 motors and have never had a problem from race motors to street driven motors.
 

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Yep, Stefan called me today and we discussed it I agree with everything he said. I have always blocked that hole off, with both the s2000 pump and A2 pump.

If you have the girdle apart you can block that hole off from the top side, it doesn't require any drilling because the hole is tapered so it is much larger on the top side, and you just run a 1/8 npt tap and plug it up.

I have done that on probably 4 or 5 motors and have never had a problem from race motors to street driven motors.
or you can just use an ERL S2k pump which blocks it off for you! :D:D
 

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Alrighty...let's get down to bwass taacks (reference anyone??)

Anyway, thanks Brian for looking at this. We've been going over this one for a while but don't know if anyone's brought it up on the forums.
I have taken a few pics that will really help see what's going on here. The tiny little hole on the bottom of the block is blocked off by our S2k pump, yes. But it's ok. That hole normally gave a little bit of oil to the old K24 pump, as you know, it's a weak pump so no one uses them.
Now, the tensioner actually uses oil from the main oil galley running through the block (pictured below). You can see that there's normally a plug in this hole but I've taken a pic of a block without one so you can see what's going on. Unless the oil was coming from a nicely pressurized source, there's no way the tensioner would be able to effectively do its job. Let's take a look...




Now, another little something to note, is that in our kit, we include the mounting hardware for the pump but also, a 10mm plug. What's this for?
It is used to plug the oil restrictor hole in the bottom of a K24 block. Now, you have the restrictor in your block that you have pictured Brian. Some K24 blocks are already tapped and have a little brass orface down in there so you can find the right bolt and just throw it in there. If you don't plug this hole, you WILL NOT have very much oil pressure. The block can be drilled and tapped with a 10x1 tap for the plug we provide. What I have pictured below is what comes in the kit, where it goes, and the last pic is the plug installed in the block. (#'s corresponding to their part)...





The last little tidbit... Sometimes people have an old style K24 oil pump chain guide. That's ok but, if you do you will probably have to cut it to work. This is pictured below. Also, you will need a K24, not K20, Chain Tensioner guide. This is the one that's on the right side if looking at the crank snout and has a crescent moon shaped piece of nylon on the metal.



Hope this helps!
Would you happen to have the part# for the correct chain guide?
 

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Plastic (nylon) chain guide that shouldn't have to be cut = 13460-PNC-004
K24 Chain Tensioner guide (metal) = 13450-RAA-004

We have them all in stock if you need any of the peices.
 

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Plastic (nylon) chain guide that shouldn't have to be cut = 13460-PNC-004
K24 Chain Tensioner guide (metal) = 13450-RAA-004

We have them all in stock if you need any of the peices.
Thanks for the part numbers. Just to verify the part# 13460-PNC-004 listed above for the chain guide is the part# for the k20 (02-06 RSX-S) chain guide. How I understand this is, you use a k20 chain guide and a k24 chain tensioner...am I understanding this correctly?
 

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yes, you are correct. I'm not sure all of the applications for this part number on the guide i gave you but yes, It's for a K20.

Also correct, you will have to use a K24 "chain tensioner, guide"
 
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