Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know people have been waiting for this for a while so I figured it's time to post it.

I've still have to get the Cruise Control wired up correctly but I will post that once it's figured out. It will not effect the driving of the car.

First and foremost, this write up covers wiring on a 92-93 DA Integra, there are some ECU connections made and I have listed ODB1 colors. I DO NOT know if 90-91 Integras have the same cluster wiring so those of you with the 90-91 Integras, you'll have to get in there and see.

I will not be covering dash or cluster removal in this write up, there is enough info out there so just search it.

With the information provided this swap can be performed on any ODB Acura/Honda providing you can cluster pin outs for YOUR model and year.

Lastly, this write up is for the AP1 S2000 cluster, what's the difference between the 2, see the pictures below.



As you can see the fuel and engine temp on the AP2 are curved where as on the AP1 they are straight. The AP2 wiring is different too, the pin outs I posted have both AP1 and AP2 on them.

The next post will start to cover the parts and tools required.

You need the following tools:

Wire strippers
Soldering Iron and solder
Heat Shrink
Heat Gun
Ring Terminal for the ECT gauge.
Some 18ga wire for wiring the ECT gauge.

Parts Needed:

AP1 S2000 Cluster and cluster plugs (you NEED the plugs) - Search the classifieds of various boards (JDMR, HT, etc), Ebay, is good too.

Electronic Vehicle Speed Sensor from a 94-01 Integra - I bought mine for $50 from Teknotik. Try a junker. If you have a D series, use one from a 92-95 Civic.

Modifry Engine Coolant Temperature Converter -

Speedohealer V4 (older versions will not work) - For Canadians:
Everyone else, search for a dealer on Healtech's web site:

Now it's time for the actual swap.

63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I personally got a spare dash harness to do this swap. Here is the wiring pin out.

S2000 (AP1) To 92-93 Integra Cluster Wiring Diagram.

Connector A 14 Pins Green

1. Blue/Red -------- Yellow/Red - Seat Belt Warning Light
2. ------
3. ------
4. Pink - SRS Light -------- Black/Yellow - +12V will switch the light off since no DA came with air bags.
5. Blue/White - DRL Indicator - Not Used (Canada Only)
6. Yellow -------- Black/Yellow - Fuse 5 (Canada Only)
7. Green/Red ----------- Green/Blue - Left Turn Signal
8. Green/Yellow --------- Green Yellow - Right Turn Signal
9. Canada: Red/White --------- Red/Blue - High Beam Indicator
USA: Red/Yellow --------- Red/Blue - High Beam Indicator
10. Red/Blue -------- Black - High Beam Indicator (-)
11. Blue/Black ------- Green/Black - Trunk Open Indicator
12. --------
14. Yellow/Blue - EPS Indicator - Not Used

Connector B 12 Pins Grey

1. Black/White -------- Green/Red - Door Open Output
2. Red/Yellow -------- Black/Yellow - Fuse 45
3. Red/Black -------- Red/Black - Dash Lights
4. Yellow ------- Black/Yellow - Fuse 5
5. White/Red -------- Black/Yellow - Fuse 25
6. Green ------- Green/Red - Driver’s Door
7. Light Green/Red ------- Green/Red - Passenger Door
8. Black ----- Black - Ground
9. Black ----- Black - Ground
10. Red ----- Black - Dash Lights (-)
11. Green - Wiper Relay - Not Used
12. ---------

Connector C 20 Pins Black

1. White/Black - VSS Output - Not used
2. Red/White -------- Black/Yellow - Ignition Key Switch
3. Blue/White ------- See Speedohealer Wiring
4. ------
5. Blue --------- Blue - Tachometer Output
6. Black/White - Heater Control Panel Illumination Cancel Output - Not used
7. Yellow/Green -------- See ECT Wiring
8. Yellow/Black -------- Yellow/White - Fuel Gauge (you must also tie the Green/Red - Low Fuel Indicator into this wire)
9. -------
10. -------
11. Blue/Orange - Wiper Position Input - Not Used
12. Blue/Black - Intermittent Wiper Request Input - Not Used
13. White/Black - Washer Request Input - Not Used
14. --------
15. Blue/Yellow --------- Red/Black - Cruise Control Indicator
16. --------
17. --------
18. ---------
19. ---------
20. ----------

Connector D 16 Pins Black

1. ---------
2. --------
3. --------
4. ---------
5. ----------
6. ----------
7. ----------
8. Blue/Red -------- Blue/Red - ABS Indicator (or ground if you don’t have ABS)
9. Green/White ------- Green/Red - E-Brake Indicator (pins 9 and 10 tied together)
10. Green/Red ------ Green/Red - Brake System Indicator (pins 9 and 10 tied together)
11. White/Blue ---- White/Blue - Charging System Indicator
12. Black/Yellow ---- Black/Yellow - Fuse 8
13. Yellow/Red ------ Yellow/Red - Engine Oil Pressure Indicator
14. Green/Orange ---- Green/Orange - MIL Indicator (Check Engine Light)
15. Pink - Immobilizer Indicator - Not Used (possible to hook up to an alarm’s LED for shits? Dunno might have to try it).
16. White/Red ------ Black/Yellow - Fuse 25

S2000 Cluster Pin Outs

DA 92-93 Integra Pin Outs

Here's pictures of my wiring.


Solder the completed harness into your car. You can either cut your plugs off or leave them, I choose to leave them and I suggest you do the same.

Next we will move on to wiring the converters.

63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
We'll start with the Speedhealer and Electronic VSS.

Here is the wiring diagram for the E-VSS

The VSS is on top of the transmission, follow the speedo cable from the firewall down to locate it. Push down on the cable and pull up to remove it (if you didn't when you pulled out your cluster).

There is a bolt holding it in place, remove it, remove the VSS and replace it with the E-VSS.

Wiring For the Speedohealer
Speedhealer V4 Wiring

Red -------- Ignition Power (I suggest the accessory ports in the fuse box)
Black -------- Chassis Ground
Green ------- Blue/White - Connector C Pin 3 On S2000 Cluster Harness
White ------- Yellow/White Signal Wire On Electronic Vehicle Speed Sensor

Next we'll cover the Modifry ECT converter.

63 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now it's time to wire the ECT converter.

Modifry Engine Coolant Temperature Converter Wiring

White -------- Red/White or Yellow Blue - ECU Connector D Pin 13
Green ---------- Yellow/Green Connector C Pin 7 on the S2000 Cluster Harness
Yellow --------- D19 on the ECU (ODB1, will get color tomorrow)
Brown --------- Ground For Alarm Output (to hook up a sounder or LED or both)
Gray ----------- Alarm Output Goes To Alarm’s Negative
Black --------- Chassis Ground

That about wraps up the wiring side of the install.

The next part is fabbing mounts and a plate to block off the gaps in the dash. This is something I am still working on (would you believe I'm having a hell of a time locating a piece of carbon fiber?)

Here's some pictures of the rough install and some early videos when I first did the swap, speedo wasn't working at the time.

Day time

Night time

That's it! Feel free to ask me any questions you might have.

Since I know it's going to be asked, yes I will do the wiring for you. PM me to discuss it.

2 Posts
Sorry to bump an old topic, but since this is the 'most complete' writeup, I am hoping this is the best place to post my problem/question.

To start off, I am driving with a fully functional AP1 cluster for almost a year now (including ECT, Speedohealer and acurate fuel-level indicator).

Here's my issue:
By now several forums have copied the same wiring scheme, and because of the 'copy paste' they all have the same instructions on how to connect the ABS control light.
Connector D: BLUE/RED <> BLUE/RED

I am sorry to say that they all have the wrong instructions if your car has ABS (like mine).
Or I overlooked something (which I doubt).

The ABS light goes off when connected to a ground, that's true. But the ABS wiring comming from the car isn't a ground an never becomes one. So if you Civic has ABS (like mine) connecting both wires results in a ABS light that's allways on :(

What I did was connecting it to a ground and the light stayed off, but yesterday my car was at a garage for it's yearly MOT/APK (or whatever you call the mandatory checkup of your car in your country).

The car got a 'not approved' stamp because it has ABS and the ABS light in the cluster is not showing when turning the ignitionkey in the first position.

So I removed the cluster from the dash and checked every possible option. I even try to 'fake' a functional ABS light by connecting it to the wiring of the oil pressure, since that one has the same characteristics (light on in first position and going of when the key is going to the second position and start the enigine).

All without any luck, since the light needs a (switched?) ground and not a switched +12v.

Since cars only have switched +12v and no switched ground, I opened the original cluster and found out that the OEM civic cluster has a seperate ABS module/light:

To make a long story short........
Should I use this module to get a functional ABS light or is there anyone out there driving a '96 Civic with a fully functional ABS light is his/her AP1 cluster?

Hope to hear a solution, because I can't believe I am the only one with this problem.
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.