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The car looks great man! If I were to go with a newer gen chassis this would def be the direction I would go. After reading about your confusion with the shifter cables it made me wonder if it's possible to use the factory z3 cables instead of the accord + ktuned bracket? I know that billet shifter was made with provisions for both cables


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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Nice work on the swap thus far Oliver, great attention to detail.
Appreciate it, man!

The car looks great man! If I were to go with a newer gen chassis this would def be the direction I would go. After reading about your confusion with the shifter cables it made me wonder if it's possible to use the factory z3 cables instead of the accord + ktuned bracket? I know that billet shifter was made with provisions for both cables
Thanks very much.

If I had to do it all over again I'd probably just stick with the Buddy Club short throw I had in my car previously, with the addition of Accord Cables and the same bracket I will be using now.
 

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Appreciate it, man!



Thanks very much.

If I had to do it all over again I'd probably just stick with the Buddy Club short throw I had in my car previously, with the addition of Accord Cables and the same bracket I will be using now.


So you're saying that it's not possible to use z3 cables?


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Discussion Starter #25
So you're saying that it's not possible to use z3 cables?
Sorry, I think I edited before you replied.

I got to reading more after you posted, and it is indeed possible to use the Z3 cables and bracket. I think this is what I'll end up doing as the Z3 cables are about $300 cheaper than the Accord counterparts. I already own the Si cable bracket, as well.

Thanks for your insight, man!
 

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Ok that makes sense then haha. I was confused as to why you were choosing to use the accord cables when you had purchased the k tuned shifter. I'm planning on doing the same thing in my integra and I wasn't sure if there was some reason they wouldn't work in your chassis. The accord cables are a little cheaper than the z3 cables but once you add the cost of the k tuned cable bracket it evens out


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Discussion Starter #27
Ok that makes sense then haha. I was confused as to why you were choosing to use the accord cables when you had purchased the k tuned shifter. I'm planning on doing the same thing in my integra and I wasn't sure if there was some reason they wouldn't work in your chassis. The accord cables are a little cheaper than the z3 cables but once you add the cost of the k tuned cable bracket it evens out
Yeah, sorry about that. I was reading too many different pieces of information when I started ordering parts and got myself all screwed up.

It's actually the other way around from Toronto Honda. The Z3 cables are only $130, whereas the appropriate Accord cables are over $400! No brainer at this point - I'll just try and sell the K-Tuned bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Been a HOT minute since I checked in. Postponed fab work due to monetary constraints, but still been sluggin' away on this raft.

I recently ordered my clutch, flywheel, Defi ZD display, Rywire Rad, and axles. These are basically the remaining items required outside of fab work to really make everything work. I can yank the engine one more time, throw the clutch/flywheel in, and button everything back up for good. My valve cover is getting welded up this week, and then it'll go off for blasting and powder.

Finally got my cables dialed, and actually shifted the new transmission from the cockpit for the first time ever! I've got all the components for my shifter out of the car, and that's going to be going to a friend so he can CNC a new base plate to my specifications. I ended up moving the shifter about 6 inches back from the OEM location because of how far back I sit in the car, and it worked out great for the cable length. Once the new plate is cut I'll take photos of the shift configuration within the car.

OEM Si Cables did the trick in terms of length and compatibility with the TSX shifter.

Dem Cables by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Put a threaded insert in the centre of the OEM cable bracket because it decided to become two pieces after opening and closing it 100 times testing fitment.

Dem Cables by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Dem Cables by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Looks real tidy under the car now!

Dem Cables In Da Car by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Used the K-Tuned billet shift bushings on the transmission end.

Shift Bushings by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Also decided to finally adjust my ride height and get this sled back on the ground. Wheels came out from under wraps.

Advan's, Dog by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Lowered the whole car another 1/4" JUST because. Crazy what a difference it made, though. Looks tough.

Worst Banner by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

SELFIE CHECK.

Stance Check by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Front wheels fit real well now.

Back Under Wrapz by Oliver Flower, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Damn man the car looks totally bad ass. I'm curious to see how the shifter looks in your cockpit. At that ride height how is the oil pan clearance?
Thanks, man - I'm pleased with it for sure. I only brought it down 1/4", but it made a world of difference.

I'll get some photos of the shifter up once the new plate is cut so everything looks pretty.

Pan clearance is a non-issue with these chassis, thankfully. Everything sits above the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
On something of a roll this week! Rad showed up yesterday, as well as my new display today.

Went up to the shop tonight just to make sure the rad actually fit, because that was kind of stressing me out. This is the Rywire rad manufactured by CSF. It's the 12" x 24" core, along with shroud, fans, and the -16AN inlet/outlets.

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

The fans look really tidy on the shroud. Really pleased with the quality of this radiator, although I was a bit sceptical of it's size. Once it showed up in person and I realized how thick the core was it put my mind at ease.

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Quick mock-up in the chassis to check clearances.

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad CR-Z by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Fits really well under the core support with ample provisions on either side to knock up some brackets.

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad CR-Z by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rywire x CSF Tucked Rad CR-Z by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Here's what I was real excited about today, though! It's going to be mounted on my steering column directly in front of the existing speedo/tach. I actually removed my dash display the other day and vinyled over all the non-essential gauges... So, all that remains visible is the main center display, and only my fuel gauge on the right hand side. Looks really tidy, and very inconspicuous. I hate looking at idiot lights, and there's no chance I'm mucking around with the circuit board to turn 'em all off.

Defi ZD Advance Displau by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Should compliment the existing Defi's and C-West gauge pod in the car.

C-West Visors Defi by Oliver Flower, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Been working on it bit by bit. Nearly got the rad mounted for good!

The steel brackets that come with the Rywire rad line up remarkably well with the rebar, and gave me a good base to develop from.

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Plenty of room between my oil cooler and the rad still.

Oil Cooler Bracket by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Knocked up a cardboard template that I would later cut out of 1/8" aluminum plate.

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Transferred to the aluminum plate.

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Rad Brackets by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

I'm going to put two M8 threaded inserts in the steel bracket in order to fasten it to the aluminum bracket. The new bracket is going to share two of the existing M8 bolts that fasten the rebar. I've also got room to put a 1-1/2" dimple die in the aluminum bracket. It'll take some material out, while making it even stronger, and it'll look pretty (that's what really counts). The rad will be completely floating, and very secure.

Got my clutch and flywheel from Teknotik as well. Exedy lightweight flywheel, and their Stage 1 full surface clutch.

Exedy Lightweight Flywheel by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

Exedy Stage 1 Clutch by Oliver Flower, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Got my valve cover back from Stripping Tech after I had the bungs and tubes welded up. Turned out great! The colour is 'Anodized Silver' with a gloss clear over top. I wanted it to look OEM, but fancy it up a bit.

Stripping Tech Cover by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

The Circuit Hero cover looks right at home on there now as well.

Stripping Tech Cover by Oliver Flower, on Flickr

I've ordered up ARP hardware for my flywheel and pressure plate, so once that arrives I can pull my engine back out and button everything up for good.

I'll be painting my chassis rails, core support, and rebar at that time as well. I've been busy finishing brackets and revising a couple existing parts of the car. I've got a set of dimple dies on order, that should arrive Friday. I'll post completed photos of the brackets and all that once they're all dimpled and finished. I'll then send them all off to Stripping Tech for powder.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Sweet, never seen one of those with k swap. Would you happen to know the weight of it?
There's a handful of them kicking around in the States, but only two I know of that are really worth mentioning.

I scaled the car at 2650lbs before the swap - complete interior, 7-Speaker stereo with nav, spare tire, tools, and Cusco roll bar. I'm hoping to land around 2500lbs wet with the K20, having changed only the engine, and the removal of A/C.
 

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Before the swap meaning with old engine and hybrid system?

2500lbs isnt bad at all, like ek chassis but with safety/structural benefits of modern chassis. Should be a little rocket when done
 
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