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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok so i recently replaced my clutch and cams, since i have done this i cannot get my rsx to start.
details are:
2003 rsx type s
hondata kpro v4
sk2 dic cams
injen cai
rbc intake
70mm TB
( i was supposed to install rdx injectos but there was a problem so this was delayed, i installed the pigtails with anticipation of their arrival, then un-installed them to go back to stock as per problem. i made a mistake and installed a different stock injector clip from an ek, and wired it so the ground and positive were backwards, this has been corrected with the rsx stock clip, could this fry the ecu?)

i CANNOT!! figure out why it will not start. i am also not getting a spark.
these are what i have diagnosed so far.

-checked timing
-checked battery voltage
-checked grounds
-reset kpro and re-uploaded stock base map( i did notice that when the ign is on, the kpro does not display any readings for any sensors or engine details under the sensors tab, but i do not know if this ir normal or not)
-checked fuses in engine bay and under dash,
-checked for power, continuity to injector clips and coil clips
-disabled imobi in kpro


i was told a bad crank sensor will not allow the engine to start, or that possibly the ecu is not getting power.

i badly need help as i need this fixed so i can get to work on tuesday
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Welcome BLAZZER to K20a.org!

Some questions:
  • Which timing did you check: belt or ignition?
  • What does mean you get no spark. Does it mean you can't see a spark?
  • Did you see injectors fuel squirting?

Generally you need starter turning, injectors squirting, spark plug igniting, air to be suctioned and all compesed by the ECU. So every part of that need to be proven. I would start with the simple things:
  • compression or leack down test
  • spark plugs condition
  • fuel squirting
  • igntion timing check (stroposcope test!)
  • Timing chain timing check
  • Datalog strart event and check it out
Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cam and. Rank timing checked, I did notice this morning it sits counterclockwise forward by one tooth and does not line up with the tdc mark on the timing chain cover, so I will be correcting that.



Correct, zero spark, I have pulled the coils and plugs, grounded them while a buddy cranked the car, result was zero spark from the plugs, but measured the coil clips and there was 12v from each clip, so it's getting power, just no signal.

Injectors do seem to be squirting, is there a way I can confirm this?





I forgot about a compression test, I will do that now and report back
spark plug condition is excellent light brown (I will test them on another vehicle to confirm they are not dead
fuel squirting as far as I know yes
igntion timing check in timing can you explain this?(stroposcope test!)
Timing chain timing check re-timing
Will data log next crank over I'll report back soon

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ok, so, still no spark, all tests were done, compression came back @ 150/60/50/120

so no i need to locate a leak down tester, would this still casue it to not fire up?? and why would i not be getting spark?

i also noticed, my mechanical timing is off by a tooth again... :/ would this casue the lack of compression?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...so I will be correcting that.
:up:

...but measured the coil clips and there was 12v from each clip, so it's getting power, just no signal.
Ok, could you measure the Ohmic resistance of the ignition coils? Primary and secondary side. I have no Honda reference, just from the physics primary should be around few Ohm's and secondary side around few kOhm's.

Once you can measure 12 V at the primaries, but see no spark it could be that the under breaker is dead/disabled (out of safety issues, e.g. in case of a missing sensor signal) or their high voltage potential is due to a internal insulation issue reduced (lowered resistance as indicator).

Injectors do seem to be squirting, is there a way I can confirm this?
Take an empty beer cup, demount one injector, hold the injector into the beer cup and crank. Caution, there are flowing up to few amps in that solenoid's!

...igntion timing check in timing can you explain this?(stroposcope test!)
Source: www.scootertuning.ch

...compression came back @ 150/60/50/120
Your engine sat for a long time, doing nothing than getting old? A dissolving of oil-backing at the rings may help here.

...i need to locate a leak down tester, would this still casue it to not fire up?? and why would i not be getting spark?
Answers as you listed: yes, but without necessity...can be...different issue, likely the main issue. The last can be caused by an dead sensor. The ECU react like this if an essential signal is missing like reset point, crank sensor signal, TPS, ...

...i also noticed, my mechanical timing is off by a tooth again... :/ would this casue the lack of compression?
No, no change for that thesis to come true. Valve lash measuring would be more worth to investigate next.

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, could you measure the Ohmic resistance of the ignition coils? Primary and secondary side. I have no Honda reference, just from the physics primary should be around few Ohm's and secondary side around few kOhm's.
3 ohms on each one assume i did that correctly

Take an empty beer cup, demount one injector, hold the injector into the beer cup and crank. Caution, there are flowing up to few amps in that solenoid's!
excellent, thnx for that test, and confirmed now, no fuel

timing light shows its off by about 1-2 degrees so about a tooth, maybe i need to compesante more for when i loosen the tensioner?

Your engine sat for a long time, doing nothing than getting old? A dissolving of oil-backing at the rings may help here.
about a week and 6 days to be exact it has sat without running....

Answers as you listed: yes, but without necessity...can be...different issue, likely the main issue. The last can be caused by an dead sensor. The ECU react like this if an essential signal is missing like reset point, crank sensor signal, TPS, ...
extensive testing i guess but, i found a donor rsx, im going to swap sensor one by one on to the donor rsx and see if it fails to start with each one...

No, no change for that thesis to come true. Valve lash measuring would be more worth to investigate next.
valve lash is a solid .08mm ex and .11mm in triple checked
 

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did you at all unplug your map and tps and replug them in mixing them up accidently by chance?

if so, this can kill the MAP sensor and the symptom is the car will not start or hiccup like it wants to start but wont catch and there is no DTC for a bad MAP sensor in this specific scenario.

aside from that, it should technically be able to start up even if the cam timing is off by a tooth.

is your crank sensor plugged in?
 

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okay similar problem for me...
k20a2 head
new oem cams (vtec)
k20a3 short block with k20a3 internals
(the head has the k20a2 internals,lifters, etc.)
I put everything back from chassis to radiator and the battery is dead, I charge it to 12.4 Nd it gets good cranking like it wants to start but doesn't start a single bit. I was absolutely careful with the timing chain and made sure I was close to the marks as physically possible I did accidentally mix the map sensor and tps sensor and the car is throwing p0335 and engine coolant temp code and it still will not start at all
just good cranking
I have run out of options let me know. in the meantime ima double checĺk to see if the chain skipped
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I'm not too sure how that is done I'm entry level mechanic going by the SM and it didn't say anything about that
Are you able to download the calibration from the ECU and do a log of the idle at least from the start up procedure?
 

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I don't I have a stock ecu nobody has ever moved it except me... I do however have a Bluetooth chip attached to the obd2 port and I'm able to see everything on my phone I'll upload it right now

also update: I checked the timing and It did skip. also spend the last 2 days doing my own wire harness tuck and redid the wires separating the spark wires and the crank sensor wires, as we'll as wiring the k20a3 crank sensor into the block. that ultimately stopped my crank sensor code from popping up anymore and am no longer getting codes at all
 
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