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I honestly don't know why, but the DC2 chassis should be the same as the EG chassis. I don't know why it works for some people and not for others like yourself. But you did everyone an awesome favor by figuring out what does work in that case. So Kudos to u man!
 

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when you look at a cv shaft, you have 3 main pieces. One piece plugs into your hub on your knuckle/spindle. One piece plugs into your transmission/intermediate shaft. The last piece connects the two ends. The piece that plugs into your transmission/intermediate shaft is known as the "inner" and the piece that plugs into the hub on the knuckle/spindle is known as the "outer".
I appreciate the insight fam, and i feel as if im getting closer to a resolution...but it was the SWAPPED part that had me miffed, not the inner/outter portion...are you saying simply turn the axle around? what am i physically swapping is what i'm looking for
 

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I appreciate the insight fam, and i feel as if im getting closer to a resolution...but it was the SWAPPED part that had me miffed, not the inner/outter portion...are you saying simply turn the axle around? what am i physically swapping is what i'm looking for
Essentially what you are doing is by swapping the inner, you are taking a driver side and making it into a passenger side and vice versa.
 

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Dude just please start reading from page 1. I read this whole forum from page 1 before I started asking questions that were not covered.

It's been covered over and over and over again.
Lol... Thats why i didnt answer... Was way way frustrated.
 

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The Professional
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How difficult is it to swap the inners? Is it as simple as just pulling the boot off, removing the joint and swapping them around? I've never done it before.
 

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man, has this thread gone in the wrong direction

it's as simple as reading folks

karcepts has this info available on his site for 36mm axles

its known that if you want to run oem 32mm, inners must be swapped, pretty much remove both cups and place the driver side on the pass and the pass side on the driver

aftermarket 32mm require to remove both tripod bearing, c-clip (retaining) and cup in order to work.

some have experienced running EP3's and RSX axles w/o having to swap inners.

just read the thread, plain and simple.
 

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Read through the whole thread. Saw your post #243. Thanks for the info.
 

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Ep3 axles work jus as good and the fit into 32 hubs and half the price>>.......
eg/ef/dc/da chasis works perfect
ek chasis need type s driver and jdm h22 passenger axles due to length
 

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Get yourself a pair of RSX Base axles... Remove the large boot clamps on the inner joints, slide the inner joints off from each axle (no banging required), and then re-install the inner joints to the other respective axle. You can find boot clamps at most auto parts stores that do not need any form of special tool in order to re-secure the boots to each inner joint. The K-Series engine sits closer to the left hand side of the chassis in a K-powered Civic or Integra in comparison to where a K-Series engine is normally positioned in the RSX chassis. Because of this, the left hand side axle will be slightly longer than ideal and the right hand side axle will be slightly shorter than ideal if simply installing stock (un-swapped) RSX axles. When swapping the inner joints between the pair of RSX axles, you are effectively decreasing the length of the left hand side axle and increasing the length of the right hand side axle in order to help compensate for the difference in engine positioning.
First of all. This thread is excellent. Lots and LOTS of information.

Just to clarify. Could anyone (Karcepts if you have the time), confirm if the above explanation can also be applied to Australian / RHD vehicles.

I'm about to upgrade my drivetrain of my own.

Note:
- DC5R in Australia uses 36mm axles. It does NOT have the Brembo brakes
- DC2R in Australia uses 32mm axles


Currently:
- EK Hatchback 1998 Model
- K20A2 Conversion
- Hasport EKK1 mounts
- Mixed shafts. DC5R outers and DC2R inners

Want to upgrade to:
- Hasport EKK2 mounts
- Using DC2R subframe
- I plan on purchasing a set of Karcepts 36mm hub adaptors
- Going to use DC5R axles

Is the inners swapped for length still required? Most of the talk in here is about base model DC5 and not much on hubs with Karcepts hub adaptors.
My apologies if this has already been cleared up.

On a side note:
A couple of things I'm also trying to research on are headers and power steering;

- Will upgrading from EKK1 to EKK2 mounts require a new set of headers due to the angle, etc, etc.

- And, will using the DC5 power steering system on EKK2 mounts still work without using hood lifters? I'm ok with cutting the bracing underneath the hood to make it work.

Any light on the above is much appreciated. Will continue to search around for the answers on the above to if anyone does not want to clutter this thread with other information.

And just in case my explanation of the "DC5 power steering system" doesn't make sense. This is what my bay looks like.



Thanks all

Mark
 

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Hi Mark,

Yes, the same can be applied to RHD as the mount position does not change depending on LHD or RHD.

You can do the same thing needed for Base axles as well as DC5 axles for our 36mm hubs. If you check our website you can see a number of different OEM axle possibilities for our 36mm hubs.

However, there will be a flaw with the DC5R axles. The DC5R is unlike the USDM RSX-S. The axles on the DC5R are 3/4" longer than USDM RSX-S. Because of this, they will be too long and bottom out on each other if swapping inner joints when installed in your K-Swap.

We have found that EP3R axles are identical to USDM RSX-S axles.

Here is something you can do if you currently own the DC5R axles. Actually, the longer DC5R right side axle will be the perfect length as is for the right side of the vehicle, so you can install as is, Plug-N-Play.

Then just go grab yourself either 1x EP3R left side axle or a USDM RSX-S left side axle and install as is, Plug-N-Play, and you will be all set.

So unfortunately, the DC5R are their own anomaly and cannot be treated like the USDM RSX-S.

For your header question, I see no need for changing your existing header, but the collector will now move back a few inches and will be maybe an inch higher. So it depends on what header you are currently using and the existing clearances you have, but you should be okay with the move to the EKK2 mounts.

As for the PS system, just use the lower mounting holes on the EKK2 mounts and you will clear no problem. We always recommend to use the lower EKK2 mounting holes as the lower position is identical to the sole position EGK1 mounts place the motor. Center of gravity is lower, the mounts will still have a substantial amount of oil pan clearance compared to the EKK1 mounts, and you will have better hood clearance.

Hope that helps,
Brian Karwan
Karcepts, Inc.
 

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Hi Brian

Really appreciate the reply. Again, lots of useful information there.

However, can you please clarify the following:

- When you say Left and Right. Is Left the timing chain side and Right the gearbox side? Or vice versa?

- When you say DC5R, are you referring to the JDM DC5R ? If so, I’m almost certain than that the JDM DC5R axles are of different length to Australian spec (AUDM) DC5R axles. Although, I am basing that fact on a number of posts in this thread stating that the JDM DC5R axle is longer due to the hub sitting “out” moreso than USDM DC5 to accommodate for the use of the Brembo brakes. If this is the case, then just like the USDM DC5, the AUDM DC5R is not equipped with the Brembo brakes therefor using the same axles ? Is there anything besides actually measuring the axles that can tell me if AUDM use the same axles as USDM ? Will be heading to your website after typing this reply to check out the axle possibilities for 36mm hubs

- I will eventually ask this to you in an email, just like I have about the shipping to Australia for the Karcepts Hub Convertor, but I was wondering if you would provide the service of shipping OEM axles that are pop in and go for EKK2 utilising the hub convertor ? And if you have, would ship to Sydney, Australia and know the cost? I think that would be the easiest option for me. Saves me time searching for the right axles, headaches, etc. Although, I have heard of a few people running your hub convertors here in Australia on their K Swap and am in the midst of trying to contact them too regarding axles.

- Thank you for the header answer. I suppose I can tackle that problem if it arises. Although, just to clarify, are EG/DC/EKK2 K Swap headers different to EKK1 headers in general ? Or are they all the same ? Just food for thought for me for when I go window shopping for headers.
Also, in case I’ve missed it somewhere, has there been some sort of solution to the oil pan clearance issue. Australian roads can sometimes be unforgiving.


- Thanks also for the PS system clarification. I may however opt for the higher mounting hole since the whole reason, for me, to change up to EKK2 is purely for oil pan clearance. Do you know the rough increase in clearance from EKK1 mounts > EKK2 lower hole mounting > EKK2 higher hole mounting ?

- Lastly, do you know what your international contact number would be? I have tried to call you a couple of times but it does not seem to connect.

Thank you

Mark
 

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left and right hand automotive orientation are based on your seating and forward facing perspective. Not standing in front of the car facing it.

K trans is on the left side, timing chain is right side.

I'm pretty sure Brian is referring to the JDM DC5 (w/brembo's). I helped him get data on axle length in the past and had a set of these in my posession and the passenger side was damb long vs. a US Type-s pass side axle.


on a side note whoever said US EP3 axles in an EG/DC will work (even w/swapped inners) has another thing comin, as far as the passenger side axles goes (have your AAA card on stand by lol). EP3 driver side works fine tho.
 

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with all this modding and swapping, what ever happened to simply using the type s axles with b series outers? i havent seen that mentioned in any of these axles threads lately. thats the way i did it way back in 2005, never had 1 problem with binding, popping out, stretching, ripping, etc. and that car definitely went thru the wringer. didnt swap inners at all just put the b series outers on.
 

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with all this modding and swapping, what ever happened to simply using the type s axles with b series outers? i havent seen that mentioned in any of these axles threads lately. thats the way i did it way back in 2005, never had 1 problem with binding, popping out, stretching, ripping, etc. and that car definitely went thru the wringer. didnt swap inners at all just put the b series outers on.
I've personally tried this years ago and I experienced some kind of binding issues while on track (road racing) specifically. The binding was causing the outer joint axle grease to boil over and would balloon out the boots! the end result was it felt like my axle blew out on track (felt like a flat tire almost, thud thud thud while tugging my steering wheel). This happened consistently during 3 run sessions in a row towards the end of the session. weirdest sheit evaar.

Though, for daily driving I didn't have any issues on this setup. Only when I hit the track (endurance runs) is when the binding occurred. Wound up going EP3 outers and haven't had any binding issues since.

Other people on here say they haven't had any issues with their B-series outer's on k-axles and they either auto-x or drag. not sure what their secret is lol but i'd advise to stick with 100% K-series axles just for reliability sake.
 

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Mark,

I'm not all that familiar with your AUDM parts but I'm almost positive when dealing with prior Australian customers we've ran into this length issue. I could be mistaken, so you simply have to measure...

Shoot us an email to sales @ karcepts dot com for a shipping quote if you prefer we supply them.

Contact Hasport for specifics, but very roughly: EKK1 mounts = LOW, EKK2 lower hole mounting + 1-1.5" higher (again, same as EGK1's), EKK2 higher hole mounting + .75" higher than EKK2 lower...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's some info I've never shared before, but this will help everyone to check your axles yourself to know what to run on a K-swap:

The lines show the locations we want to measure:


Measure the axle in its compressed state. This shows the best way to hold the axle on a table. The weight of the axle will help to compress it partially, but you will have to just slightly put a little downward pressure to measure it completely compressed.


Shows where to read the dimension (also reference first pic). Just make sure the axle is completely compressed and as vertical as possible when reading:


USDM RSX-S axles will be approximately (32mm RSX Base will be the same as well):
Left Side ~ 21.06”
Right Side ~ 19.44”

After you swap the inner joints, you get:
Left Side ~ 20.75"
Right Side ~ 19.56

For a K-Swap, you want to target this:
Left Side EG/EK/DC2 K-Swap ideal axle length = 20.6”-21.0”
Right Side EG/EK/DC2 K-Swap ideal axle length = 19.8”-20.2”

As you can see, even a swapped RSX-S or RSX Base setup, the right side is still a bit short from "ideal". It will work, but preferably you want to be within the range I have specified.

An 06+ Civic Si Right Side ~ 19.88”, so for the best length and simplest installation (no swapping of inner joints needed), the #1 recommended setup out there for 36mm is to just run:
1x USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX-S Driver (Left) Side Axle
1x USDM 2006+ Honda Civic Si Passenger (Right) Side Axle
 

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left and right hand automotive orientation are based on your seating and forward facing perspective. Not standing in front of the car facing it.

K trans is on the left side, timing chain is right side.

I'm pretty sure Brian is referring to the JDM DC5 (w/brembo's). I helped him get data on axle length in the past and had a set of these in my posession and the passenger side was damb long vs. a US Type-s pass side axle.


on a side note whoever said US EP3 axles in an EG/DC will work (even w/swapped inners) has another thing comin, as far as the passenger side axles goes (have your AAA card on stand by lol). EP3 driver side works fine tho.
Thanks for clearing that up Katman. I assumed so. But with the difference in lingo that is use on here compared to Australia I thought I’d just make sure
=)

Ahh that’s what I thought too regarding the EP3 axles. Which is a shame as there are quite a few of them here in Australia.


with all this modding and swapping, what ever happened to simply using the type s axles with b series outers? i havent seen that mentioned in any of these axles threads lately. thats the way i did it way back in 2005, never had 1 problem with binding, popping out, stretching, ripping, etc. and that car definitely went thru the wringer. didnt swap inners at all just put the b series outers on.

I've personally tried this years ago and I experienced some kind of binding issues while on track (road racing) specifically. The binding was causing the outer joint axle grease to boil over and would balloon out the boots! the end result was it felt like my axle blew out on track (felt like a flat tire almost, thud thud thud while tugging my steering wheel). This happened consistently during 3 run sessions in a row towards the end of the session. weirdest sheit evaar.

Though, for daily driving I didn't have any issues on this setup. Only when I hit the track (endurance runs) is when the binding occurred. Wound up going EP3 outers and haven't had any binding issues since.

Other people on here say they haven't had any issues with their B-series outer's on k-axles and they either auto-x or drag. not sure what their secret is lol but i'd advise to stick with 100% K-series axles just for reliability sake.

To quote Katman and answer you JDM…CTR, my current set up of EKK1 mounts and b series outers has been ok-ish. My swap has been in the car for about 6 to 7 years now and I am on my 3rd set of axles. It has seen about 8 quarter mile passes as of late, and one track day last year. I really want to go to both of these events more regularly now that I have a bit more time up my sleeve and would just like the most reliable setup. My mechanic here also mentioned that binding occurred which led to an axle swap and that was not long after some spirited driving. And then again after the track day.

Anyway, just wanted to explain why I’d like to upgrade.

Mark


Mark,

I'm not all that familiar with your AUDM parts but I'm almost positive when dealing with prior Australian customers we've ran into this length issue. I could be mistaken, so you simply have to measure...

Shoot us an email to sales @ karcepts dot com for a shipping quote if you prefer we supply them.

Contact Hasport for specifics, but very roughly: EKK1 mounts = LOW, EKK2 lower hole mounting + 1-1.5" higher (again, same as EGK1's), EKK2 higher hole mounting + .75" higher than EKK2 lower...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's some info I've never shared before, but this will help everyone to check your axles yourself to know what to run on a K-swap:

The lines show the locations we want to measure:


Measure the axle in its compressed state. This shows the best way to hold the axle on a table. The weight of the axle will help to compress it partially, but you will have to just slightly put a little downward pressure to measure it completely compressed.


Shows where to read the dimension (also reference first pic). Just make sure the axle is completely compressed and as vertical as possible when reading:


USDM RSX-S axles will be approximately (32mm RSX Base will be the same as well):
Left Side ~ 21.06”
Right Side ~ 19.44”

After you swap the inner joints, you get:
Left Side ~ 20.75"
Right Side ~ 19.56

For a K-Swap, you want to target this:
Left Side EG/EK/DC2 K-Swap ideal axle length = 20.6”-21.0”
Right Side EG/EK/DC2 K-Swap ideal axle length = 19.8”-20.2”

As you can see, even a swapped RSX-S or RSX Base setup, the right side is still a bit short from "ideal". It will work, but preferably you want to be within the range I have specified.

An 06+ Civic Si Right Side ~ 19.88”, so for the best length and simplest installation (no swapping of inner joints needed), the #1 recommended setup out there for 36mm is to just run:
1x USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX-S Driver (Left) Side Axle
1x USDM 2006+ Honda Civic Si Passenger (Right) Side Axle

Wowsers !!!
Some excellent info there. Even the rough measurements is a good thing to know.
=)

Will send you an email now.
Again, if you could please provide your international contact number that would be great. I think I’m missing an area code or something when trying to call you.

Thanks again
Mark


this is why Karcepts is the best in this business!

Karcepts>************************* :dance:


:mj:

I am definitely seeing why his reputation is without a doubt !

=)
 
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