Revving to 9.5k rpm
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Joined
·
28,004 Posts
Stock oil pump will be fine at that rpm... Valvetrain... Valves, springs and retainers will help keep that motor from exploding at those RPM's
Joined
·
28,004 Posts
It is not a necessity but some recommend it.
MarcP takes his EG with a Stock A2 oil pump to 9800rpm Every pass he says.. Never had a problem.
But this on the 1320, yes? I was speaking of road racing. The A2 pump can have some issues under high G load at high rpm.
OP: curious... what cams do you have?
Joined
·
28,004 Posts
Yes the 1320. Okay thanks for clearing up that you were speaking about road racing..
Joined
·
2,323 Posts
if you are road racing then i would upgrade the oil pump for a few reasons. first to be safe. second the duration of time the engine is operating on the track and that the engine will be operating at peak rpm's almost every shift for a long duration of time.
I am not saying that the Type-S oil pump will not work at 9.5 to 10K shifts, I do know that a TypeS oil pump works fine at 8.5 to 9K road racing. What I am saying if there is a better solution,...take it due to the strain the engine will be under and your expectations of how the engine should hold up.
For example, I am swapping a K20A into an EG. I am upgrading my axles to a Driveshop Level 0 road race package. It may cost an extra $100 bucks but they inject a high temp grease in the boots cause of the EXPECTED high brake temps which can make normal grease in the axles lose it's expected function.
So I would upgrade the oil pump, there is no point in doing things half ass if you can help it. It is the same reason I am going with a K20A instead of a K24a2. I want the extra TQ from the K24a2, but I road race and the percentage of the time I will not be using TQ down low. And I am expecting to make all my power up high and it is easier for the K20A to rev than the K24a2.
I had a K24a2 SC'd. It always felt like the engine was lacking after 7500rpm. Then I would ride in my buddies SCK20A2 and it felt like it was coming alive after 7500rpm.
That's all hope that helps
I am not saying that the Type-S oil pump will not work at 9.5 to 10K shifts, I do know that a TypeS oil pump works fine at 8.5 to 9K road racing. What I am saying if there is a better solution,...take it due to the strain the engine will be under and your expectations of how the engine should hold up.
For example, I am swapping a K20A into an EG. I am upgrading my axles to a Driveshop Level 0 road race package. It may cost an extra $100 bucks but they inject a high temp grease in the boots cause of the EXPECTED high brake temps which can make normal grease in the axles lose it's expected function.
So I would upgrade the oil pump, there is no point in doing things half ass if you can help it. It is the same reason I am going with a K20A instead of a K24a2. I want the extra TQ from the K24a2, but I road race and the percentage of the time I will not be using TQ down low. And I am expecting to make all my power up high and it is easier for the K20A to rev than the K24a2.
I had a K24a2 SC'd. It always felt like the engine was lacking after 7500rpm. Then I would ride in my buddies SCK20A2 and it felt like it was coming alive after 7500rpm.
That's all hope that helps
Joined
·
25,395 Posts
stiffer springs, titanium retainers, s2k pump for insurance since it is road racing, baffle, and accusump(optional but I recommend it).
that should get you to 9.5k and back again safely.
i believe for drag racing the k20 pump works fine that high but for road racing and autox 8800 is it's limit.
Joined
·
2,535 Posts
Some simple mods to the A2 oil pump will allow it to operate as well as the S2k unit for road racing. And there are benefits to the A2 pump, you can retain the cast aluminum pan and there are commercially available baffle kits, whereas the S2k pump will require the stamped steel pan and a totally custom baffle setup.
Nice, what kinda simple mods are we talking about? Having to change to the k24 oil pan is really putting me off from changing to the s2k oil pump. Will probably stick with the A2 oil pump.
Joined
·
1,816 Posts
It may for a few passes, but valve float happens around 9200-9300 on the K20a's...You might squeek by with a few passes but sooner or later it WILL fail. Upgrade the valvetrain, I went to Supertech 92lb Seat pressure springs and Ti-Retainers for which the combo is rated at over 10k RPM just for my own personal piece of mind.
-Froth
Joined
·
2,535 Posts
Start with a new A2 pump with the latest revisions. then open up the pump and using a dremel smooth the transition point where the oil passage makes the turn to enter the block, smoothing this transition from the cast formed passage to the drilled passage helps tremendously. Or you could purchase the pump pre-worked from Hytech.
Joined
·
4,414 Posts
Cool cool, thanks for the good info:up:
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
