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I thought i put up a small review of my impression of Kraftwerks Supercharger kits for our K-swap cars.

I approached Oscar Jr, roughly 2 months ago outlining my goals for my car to be one of Australia's Time Attack Honda and i needed more power to achieve this goal. After a our conversation and research, i was convinced the Kraftwerks Kit was the only way to achieve power for the least amount possible. Oscar Jr, has kindly offered me a partial sponsorship on the kit which has greatly helped out with the price and shipping :up:

Product Quality and Installation

Upon receiving the Kraftwerks Kit, everything seems to be in good order. Brackets are nicely machined and finished off with black paint and a detailed instruction manual for installation.

Installation was pretty straight forward. Step by Step instruction were detailed in the manual so nothing could go wrong. The most tricky part was to remount my oil cooler and find a place to put Rotrex Cooler. With limited space of the EG front end, i got abit creative and place it behind one of my cut out headlights. In terms of the pulley, my 100mm C38-61pulley accompany with a K20a2 crank pulley (138mm) the supercharger is geared to 8650rpm. I've used a stock K20 Type R pulley belt (fits perfectly with the ep3 non p/s pulley on the K24)







With the vast resouce in US for Honda, i bought an intercooler from ebay which sit perfectly within the EG front bar. Here is a link for anyone who is interested - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Max-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



After everything was installed, it was now ready for some aluminium pipes to join everything together. The car was sent off to my local sponsors- liverpool Exhaust who has kindly help me out with anything i need. With how the supercharger kit was placed in the engine bay, the piping work required wasnt too difficult. A 90 degree bend from the supercharger was used to connect to the intercooler and straight pipes of alloy with a few bents to the throttle body. Only 3 pipes needed to be fabricated for the kit.






Start-up and Tune
So everything is now ready for start-up. We prime the rotrex oil by applying some compress air into the oil reserve can. I carefully watch as oil leaked from the supercharge fitting, knowing oil has traveled to the supercharger. Everything is now tighten and last check off all oil levels before its cranked over.

Injector Dynamics 1000cc were used now so i've adjusted the map with the new injectors and componsated for more fuel. On initial start-up, it was leaning out. More fuel was added and the car idle smoothly

The car is now in final stages just waiting for a tune. I finally get some time and arrange a time to hire out the dyno @ Bel Garage. This is a low reading dyno, so dont ask why is dyno number so low. My old set-up was a stock internally k24 motor with OBX itb's, ASP headers, electric water pump set-up made 130kw's. It's a tough dyno to get power from :p. It doesnt matter cause the car hammered on the track

Anyways, the car is on the dyno ready to be tuned. I start off with low cam tuning and work my way through to high cam. The car makes a good 145kw on low cam with 25vtc. I was pretty happy with the result since it making more power and torque from the old set-up. We move onto high cam and realised the car was cutting out at 7000rpm. We forgot to compensate for the extra heat in the combustion cambers and forgot to change to cooler plugs. Waiting around for a day for the cooler plugs, we're back on the dyno to finish off the tune.

On high cam, the car absolutely transforms in power delivery and torque. At 7800 rpm the car made 210kw @10psi. I was extremely pleased with the result. I still have to muck around with ignition and cam angles and the car will be fully tuned.







Final Review
So've i invested around $4000 for an extra 80-90kw's (65-70% increase in power). Damn i like that cost per KW!. I was tossing between a build K24 allmotor for Time Attack, but if it breaks i would simply lose so much money. If my current motor blows, i can easily pick up another accord euor motor and off i go again. Power delivery from the Kraftwerks Kit is nice an linear. This will simply help hit its speeds without wheelspining out of corners. Kraftwerks has made a great product and should be seriously thought about if anyone is thinking for a power upgrade or getting serious with their Time Attack or circuit racing :up:

Here is a spec list of the engine package;
07 Honda Accord Euro Motor
Blue Print Racing Stage 2 Cams
Blue Print Racing upgraded valve train
K20 oil pump and baffle sump
RBC manifold - ported matched to Throttle Body
OBX 74mm Throttle Body - bang for buck FTW! works great for a fraction of the price
ASP Big Tube 4-1's
3inhc Aluminium Exhaust
ID 1000cc
Kpro - self-tuned
E85

Update: Update: 18/05/10 Car is now Fully Tuned
I finally get the tuning done on the car. Overall, im very happy with the car, making a good 207kw @ 8200rpm on Bel's Garage Dyno. We couldnt stop the tyres from breaking traction past 7500rpm's. As seen from the graph, it just flattens off after 7500rpm which indicates wheelspin. Doesnt matter anyways, its just dyno numbers. I personally can feel how much power this motor has, and damn its going to be fun driving it. At the end of the day, we have increase the power by 60% with the supercharger kit. This sucker does drink alot of E85 maxing out the 1000cc injectors. New set of injectors will be ordered after Superlap. I didnt realise it will take that much fuel.

Here are some dyno graphs

207 Killerwatt


Rotrex supercharger builds boost nicely


Torque graph


Comparsion graph S/C vs N/A

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks great man, keep up the good work:up:

Can't wait to see final numbers, you gonna keep
the revs limited to 7800?
Final numbers are up. Couldnt get it to read any higher, damn wheelspin. It should make another 20kw's or so if it stop breaking traction

Kind of guessing but around 282.

The k24 setup that he had before would normally dyno around 230-250. So i'm guessing on dynos we're used to he's around 350-380. Please correct me if i'm wrong guys.
Yeh sorry guys, the dyno im using is a RWD base dyno. Im acutally pushing away from the roller hence the lower reading. I've tried my best to stop it from spinning the tyres (lower pressure, reduce camber, dyno with semi slicks). To me the dyno is just a tuning tool, the race track is the real indication :)

Are those Toyo tires that you are running?
Advan 048's 225-50 -15
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You maxed out Id1000's ? on this setup...that dont sound right...
My boy made 500+ on Id's with E85!!
 

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K24 USDM EG
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nice setup :up:


but you shouldnt be maxing the injectors out. What is your fuel line setup? is it starving the injectors of fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
nice setup :up:


but you shouldnt be maxing the injectors out. What is your fuel line setup? is it starving the injectors of fuel?
Factory OEM hardlines, -6an lines from hardline to the fuel rail. Fuel pressure bumped up to 70psi which doesnt seem to have any effect on duty cycle. New walboro pump installed into the ASP tank.

Fuel pump not supplying enough fuel? Lines are too small? :confused::confused:
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K24 USDM EG
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Factory OEM hardlines, -6an lines from hardline to the fuel rail. Fuel pressure bumped up to 70psi which doesnt seem to have any effect on duty cycle. New walboro pump installed into the ASP tank.

Fuel pump not supplying enough fuel? Lines are too small? :confused::confused:
hmm you pretty much have the same setup as me.. :confused:
 

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K24 USDM EG
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Yeah seems knda weird.... Will keep an eye out on the track.

Is it dangerous to run 100% duty ?
honestly.. i dont think its "dangerous" but i dont think that it is good for your injectors.

just seems you would be running really rich.. I would shoot over a question to bluehatch on here about that issue. maybe he can give you some insight on whats going on with that.
 

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if he isn't running very much timing, he could easily be maxing them out. it's more the fuel pump falling off than the injectors. the reason the IDC is so high is because I'd bet that after around 7000 RPM the fuel pressure is dropping to around 50-60 psi. Walboro's do not like high pressure. I maxed my injectors out with the same setup at 420whp. VERY conservative timing though. I'm going to replace the pump with dual bosch 044's, nrg fuel cell, -6 line all the way up and possibly move up to id2000's and see what i can gain from that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Very nice, no blow off valve?
Nikos, that was just some install pics. Its running the standard BOV supplied with the kit

if he isn't running very much timing, he could easily be maxing them out. it's more the fuel pump falling off than the injectors. the reason the IDC is so high is because I'd bet that after around 7000 RPM the fuel pressure is dropping to around 50-60 psi. Walboro's do not like high pressure. I maxed my injectors out with the same setup at 420whp. VERY conservative timing though. I'm going to replace the pump with dual bosch 044's, nrg fuel cell, -6 line all the way up and possibly move up to id2000's and see what i can gain from that.
Ah i get what you mean. Yes timing is pretty conservative. Running less than10deg's of timing above 7000rpm.
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Discussion Starter #18
Car now makes 337hp @ 7700rpm 10psi

Changes:
K20 ITR head
Skunk2 74mm Throttle Body
More tuning
TSX Crank Pulley

(For more detail, see youtube link)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZHpNTz5bXc

In the next few weeks, i'll be upgrading the fuel system. 2L Surge tank + External Bosch 044 pump and -6AN lines to the fuel rail
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why so littl timming above 7000 i would think on e-85 you should be closer to 16-18 at 10psi

The car is now in final stages just waiting for a tune. I finally get some time and arrange a time to hire out the dyno @ Bel Garage. This is a low reading dyno, so dont ask why is dyno number so low. My old set-up was a stock internally k24 motor with OBX itb's, ASP headers, electric water pump set-up made 130kw's. It's a tough dyno to get power from . It doesnt matter cause the car hammered on the track



wow another guy that has used obx and says the product worked
 
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