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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just found a hairline crack in my Type S oil pan, bought a TSX pan for ground clearance and durability .. i'm going to replace the pan tomorrow but i had a few questions:

-does anyone have the torque specs for the oil pan bolts / the tightening pattern
-what should i clean the TSX pan i bought with? brake cleaner? should i clean the pump while i have the pan off?
-do i need a new gasket or am i fine with the old gasket? RTV will be put on both sides of the gasket when i replace the pan.

sorry if these are noob questions, i searched and couldn't find the answers ..
 

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There is a sequence but you can tighten diagonally to 8lb/ft.


Of course you have to remove all the old liquid gasket with a razor, properly clean the sealing surfaces and use new liquid gasket but not too much. If you use too much liquid gasket when the pan and black sandwich it will squeeze out excess liquid gasket that will clog the oil pickup and starve the motor for oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what would be the best method to clean the sealing surfaces and the inside of the pan?

the pan is clean but there's just some specs of dirt and dust i want to get out.
 

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Use a razor blade to get the large portions off, then use a roto-loc scotchbrite pad on a drill to get it clean. It is essential to remove ALL traces of old sealant, or it is guaranteed to leak. Use any brake cleaner to clean out the inside/outside of the pan. You will also need the proper trans cover as well, the one from the typeS will not work with the TSX pan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Use a razor blade to get the large portions off, then use a roto-loc scotchbrite pad on a drill to get it clean. It is essential to remove ALL traces of old sealant, or it is guaranteed to leak. Use any brake cleaner to clean out the inside/outside of the pan. You will also need the proper trans cover as well, the one from the typeS will not work with the TSX pan.
what would the proper trans cover be? is it necessary to have one?
 

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what would the proper trans cover be? is it necessary to have one?
From any engine that uses a steel pan, K24's and K20A3(EP3) part# 21351-PNA-000.

You may also want to consider getting the strengthening brace as well. It reinforces and strengthens the pan/block/trans joint, similar to the added strength from the cast aluminum pan where it bolts to the trans as well as the girdle/block. This if I remember correctly will also take the place of the trans cover. part#2 here http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org...omp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do you think i would be find for a couple of days without the brace or trans cover?

i would like to get the car back on the road ASAP, if i order the engine stiffener this weekend, i could put it on whenever i get it without taking the oil pan off, right?

or would i be fine with just a strut tower bar or something to that extent?
 

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Yeah you will be fine driving a little bit and adding it when you get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i just drained the oil pan, i'm gonna take the pan off and switch it tomorrow. do i need to take off the alternator to get to it? it looks like it's in the way but i could be wrong.

hopefully i'll be back up and running by sunday :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i've got all the bolts off, i can't separate the oil pan from the block.

what is the best way to do this? i've used a prybar and mallet but i can't get it off ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
should the k24a2 TSX pan clear the oil pickup? i feel like it's hitting it.

what bolts should i be using? the bolts from the TSX?
 

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Make sure the pan isnt concave where the oil pickup is located at, I have seen a few that are dented in that spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it looks like it is concave but i'm not sure. i'll take a picture.

i think i'm just gonna weld up the crack in the type-s pan and give that another shot.. it's not a big crack and it's in a good spot.
 
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