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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

I recently picked up a K24 engine, which I believe is basically a JDM K24A2. I have picked up a Rywire harness and a KTuned 04 TSX ECU and I have an Easy-Run Engine Test Stand. I'm a bit stalled on the project, due to the fact that I shorted it out at the E7 terminal when I hooked everything up. I saw a spark, and then my ECU light turned off and wasn't reading on my laptop anymore. I will likely purchase a new one, but I am a bit wary of my wiring. Does anyone know of the minimum needed to run the engine and then apply some throttle to revv the engine? I have gotten the motor to turn over by shorting the starter though. I am also a bit lost on what to do for fuel. I don't have the pigtail connector, and am unsure of the wiring. Also, the TSX has hoses connected to the EVAP chamber, but I don't have/need one of those and I'm not sure how to directly connect the fuel tank to the rail on the engine. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Welcome to K20a.org.

...due to the fact that I shorted it out at the E7 terminal when I hooked everything up
What do you mean by shorted it out?

You need fuel, ignition, TPS, MAP, IAT, ECT, VTEC, oil pressure switch, ..., and all position sensors at least. As the ECU control for broken wires on essentials you will have challenges to figure out which pins you don't need to connect. My recommendation is, connect all pins, would save you to find out what is not needed, which is likely a bigger combination possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
So, I was a dummy and I didn't have an E connector plug. I currently have one on order and will have to pin and wire it to the under dash fuse box. I had the charge harness wired up to the battery and main fuse box, and didn't have the under dash fuse box set up. I took a loose wire and tried to connect it to the E7 pin while it was powered, and I saw a spark and a crackle, and everything powered down then.

According to hybrid-racing, the sensors that are necessary for normal function at a minimum seem to be the TPS, MAP, CKP, CMP, IAT, VTC, and VSS. Is the ECT and VTEC Oil pressure switch necessary? I just need to fire it up, have it idle, and be able to apply throttle. I am not sure as to how to go about fueling other than actually obtaining the stock fuel routing from another car and massaging that with an aftermarket FPR with AN fittings and lines.

Another questions, can I just wire past any junction connectors straight through? I don't see a problem unless the JC have something inside I'm missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great guys, thanks so much for the links. Also, LotusElise, I checked out your FAQ links in your sig and found the Midlana project. I have dove into that and even bought the book. I hope to gain much knowledge from this resource.

Again though, I'm still confounded by the fueling. Hopefully the book will give me some insight on what the best practice is.
 

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fuel: you intend to run your car on a test stand. So get a small fuel cell with an integrated fuel pump or fit an external fuel pump. It will be fed from the battery though the fuel pump relay controlled by the ECU. The stock fuel rail is a dead end system. You need a 3/8" quick fit to AN6 adapter, then go from there into a AN6 t-piece. The t-piece on one end is fed by the fuel pump and the other end is fed into an external fuel pressure regulator. The exit of the FPR goes back into the fuel cell. Get a fixed pressure regulator with 3 bar/43,5 PSI.

if you intend to extract the full engine power from the engine, you need a fuel pump sufficient to supply the required volume flow at the rated pressure. But from your posting, I think you are merely looking for a engine run and blip the throttle type of demo rig. For this, almost any automotive fuel pump from a fuel injected car of the last 30 years will do.

The charcoal canister can be used from a Honda S2000. Route a small fuel resistance hose from the tank top vent to the canister. from the canister, route a second hose to the purge valve on the throttle body. if you use a bladder type fuel cell, you can omit the charcoal canister, plug the valve on the TB and disable the purge valve in the ECU.

I suggest to not put a normal car fuel tank on your test stand. Way to big for what you try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Everything is extremely helpful Lotus, I really appreciate your quick and detailed responses. You are correct in assuming it is more of a demo type situation. The stock fuel tank is much bigger than I expected and probably not the best bet so I will definitely look into getting some type of fuel cell.

So I'm going to cut the flared line on the fuel rail, adapt the AN6 fittings and do the plumbing as you advised.

Not sure where the purge valve on the throttle body is. I have attached a pic with what I labeled. If someone could could confirm I labeled the parts correctly, I'd appreciate it.

104404



I also could probably get away with just a narrowband ECU, so a PRA type. However, on Hybrid Racing the options are for (PND AUT), (PPA, PND, PNF), and (PRC). I assume I can use the (PND AUT)?
 

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don't put the fuel line on the fuel rail. This is a quick fit type of connection. You can buy quick fit to AN6 adapters. Just plug it on.

The purge valve sits on top of the TB next to the MAP sensor.

The water bypass hoses can be plugged. You won't need to heat the TB on your stand unless you do longer demos in the freezing cold outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm thinking something like this for a fuel cell:

Rhodes Race Cars 18-0130

Doesn't seem to have a bladder, so I will set up a charcoal canister. Does it really have to be from an S2000? I imagine I could use any old vapor canister.
 

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any simpel charcoal canister with two barbs and an air outlet will do. I would not use one with an integrated electromagnetic control valve, but use a passive one. Use the valve on the TB under ECU control as is.

Why do you want a 10 gallon fuel cell for a demo rig? I'd get the 1 gallon 100$ version of this website.

or this one:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Although it is a demo, I will need to have the engine run and hold revs for a somewhat extended amount of time. It's also a bit of a test mule/demo. I was a little confused as to which pump to get with those though. As you mentioned, I can go with an external or internal pump but I have very little experience with setting these up. Since I will need to add a return line from the FPR due to it being a "dead end" system, it seems like I will need a pump with the return line like this:

Holley Sniper 19-350 Holley Sniper In-Tank Retrofit Fuel Pump Modules | Summit Racing

versus these in-tank ones:

Walbro F90000267 Walbro Electric In-Tank Fuel Pumps | Summit Racing

I also have the OEM 04 TSX in tank fuel pump. I imagine it would fit right in, but I would probably need another 3/8" to -6AN quick fitting.
 

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There are fuel pump modules with integrated return and FPR. These only have a single output that would go straight to the fuel rail.

a gallon of fuel runs for quiet some time at low loads. And without some kind of load cell, you won't be able to apply any loads. A gallon should be enough for 1-2 hours of run time if you only use idle and a few blips or fast idle here and there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I'm a bit unsure of what the green/blue/orange connector is for. Can I cut this and solder this to the ignition coils or does it go somewhere else?

104418


This connector for my harness doesn't fit, even though it seems to be measured for this near the throttle body. Is this for the accelerator position?
104419
 

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don't know the big one. TPS has a three pole connector. I still suggest you get a k20a2 harness and ECU. There is plainly the most support & knowhow (schematics etc.) for these.
 

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So I'm a bit unsure of what the green/blue/orange connector is for. Can I cut this and solder this to the ignition coils or does it go somewhere else?

View attachment 104418

This connector for my harness doesn't fit, even though it seems to be measured for this near the throttle body. Is this for the accelerator position?
View attachment 104419
The top plug looks like a junction joint. It's a bridge for common wires to join. It doesn't plug into anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Awesome. I do have a Rywire K series harness, so I will switch to that harness instead of the Acura TSX used one I have. The thing is, I am using an 04 TSX Under hood and under dash fuse boxes. I am then taking the appropriate wires and soldering them and connecting them together based on which sensors I believe is needed to run the car. I am trying to follow the system wiring diagrams in the service repair manual for an 03 - 08 Acura TSX. Should I just forget that and build a circuit from scratch?
 

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if you get an K20 RSX engine harness and Kpro/Doctronic ECU conversion, you just follow this schematic and are done.
I'd ditch all the rest of the car's harness. Way to complicated.
Just use a laptop as a dash. Connected to the ECU, I will show you all sensor data you want, it logs etc.


Seriously, you need 3 buttons and 3 relays. This is like 2h of work. It will plug into the Honda OE engine loom with the ECU attached.
You need a C101 connector for the engine loom and an E-connector the ECU.
The schematics for KPro and Doctronic are the same as they are based on the same ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I'm pretty new to all of this and don't have any experience with wiring, circuitry, and diagrams so sorry if I'm slow to start.

So I really just need to wire the following for the E connector:

E1 to Fuel Pump Relay (10 on PRC ECU type)
E4 to Ground O2 sensor Pin 2
E7 to Main Relay

But I'm a bit confused for the C101 wiring. I have the C101 on the loom that I've identified and will purchase the connector, but some of the pinouts are not matching what the service manual has. For example, Pin 14 Power Supply (ECU A2, A3) matches with what is in the manual, but Pin 10 O2 Sensor Heater Control (ECU A1) is the Knock sensor signal. Is this just the difference between the ECUs? Are the PRA, PRB, PRC, etc.. nomenclatures only for K20 series engine ECU or does it extend to K24?
 

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PRA, PRB and PRC are K20 types.
if you are not competent in these type of electrics, I suggest you get a K20a2 or K20a (missing VTP sensor) engine loom such as one from an RSX-S and the ECU with it. Then it all works as in the pdf. Easy as thant and no engineering required.

If you attempt to reinvent the wheel, you need to sort it out itself. I don't have any other schematics than the RSX-S and the cars I put the engine in, i.e. a MK1 Lotus Elise or a S3 Lotus Exige.
I don't understand half the model designations in the USDM either, such as Civic Si etc. as we in Europe get them with a different name or don't have these K24 engined models at all.

I recently helped to drop a K20a2 into a 2004 Lotus Exige originally using a Toyota 2ZZ engine. The MWR conversion harness was next to useless for a european spec PRA ECU and on top of it, was not well thought through even for its original application on US spec PRB looms and US spec cars. It took me about 3 full days to document each an every cable to the ECU, the conversion loom and how the Toyota loom works, coming up with a schematic and rewire everything. And I roughly know what I am doing. If you are not into it, I'd say don't try or take your time.
PS are you sure the knock sensor signal runs though the C101 connector? why should it? These run straight from the sensor to the ECU though the engine loom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Ok, so I'm going to get the PRC Hondata Kpro (all they have in stock right now) using the Rywire k series loom. I will then wire the E connectors appropriately, but I'm still a bit confused on the C101. The C101 connector on my harness is this I assume:

104429


However, I do not know where this plugs into. Do I need to purchase the female part of the connector and wire it out according to the diagram?
 
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