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Looks good. The nice thing about the clamp on piece is you can move it around the exhaust to really dial in the benefits of it, like you mentioned earlier. Curious to see the results, I saw BMW makes a 109Hz, close enough to the 107 I need to go ahead with trying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
The latter, it seems. I've got a z3 with an a2 oil pump and k24 pan, but the z3 dipstick is apparently a Lil too long for this combo and makes the oil level seem OK when it isn't. I topped the oil exactly to the top dot of the z3 dipstick, which is apparently approximately the bottom of the proper one, and it's quiet again. 🤞

Waiting on the right dipstick to come so I can set the oil level properly and try driving it again...and pinching my nose until I change the oil and get clean UOA back hoping nothing got wrecked. I never got a check engine light for low oil pressure, but the stock oil switch apparently has an absurdly low trigger point like 10psi so it'd likely have been catastrophe if it had.

--Matt
 

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Yeah it's about 10 psi. That being said I was under the impression that you use whatever dipstick matches the block. Ie: k20 is k20 dipstick and k24 is k24 dipstick, regardless of the oil pan. That could change the overall volume you need but the difference is 19mm like the deck height.
 

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Gonna need to trim this bracket a bit, but it seems like it should generally do. It's a big sturdy piece, and can be welded in-place where it needs to go if it works.

View attachment 105624
are you using a collar inside of the vibration bushing?

this is neat stuff. thank you for sharing
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 · (Edited)
Yeah it's about 10 psi. That being said I was under the impression that you use whatever dipstick matches the block. Ie: k20 is k20 dipstick and k24 is k24 dipstick, regardless of the oil pan. That could change the overall volume you need but the difference is 19mm like the deck height.
So did I, but there are some differences between the balance shaft vs non-balance shaft k20s.

HR's guide shows:
Slope Rectangle Parallel Font Diagram



K-Tuned's literature says:
Font Terrestrial plant Science Art Rocket


I reached out to K-Tuned and they confirmed that my setup is basically a k20a2 in this regard now. With the k24 pan (dimensionally similar to the aluminum k20a2 pan) and the balance shafts gone, the oil level sits higher.

I'm gonna drain what's in there once the new dipstick comes, and measure how much came out, just to be sure. The clatter disappeared when I added the 1/2 quart between the middle of the Z3 dipstick and the top. 🤷‍♂️

There's a thread about this listing the different models, with some specs, here: Dipstick difference

TIL...hopefully it's not an expensive lesson in the long run.

are you using a collar inside of the vibration bushing?

this is neat stuff. thank you for sharing
Nope. It has a metalic base (basically a huge washer), and the BMW bolt has a lip built into it above the threads that secures the whole damper at that point.

--Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
It's the current model K-Tuned AC/PS delete mount that relocates it down low. The spacer fell out when it broke, so I have to wait on a replacement from K-Tuned.

I bought the more basic EP3 setup out of the gate, but the shop that completed the swap wanted to go with this blingier one for whatever reasons. AFAIK there shouldn't be clearance issues with the alt in the stock location so I'm waffling on going back that way after reading the various horror stories about the bolts snapping.

--Matt
 

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It's the current model K-Tuned AC/PS delete mount that relocates it down low. The spacer fell out when it broke, so I have to wait on a replacement from K-Tuned.

I bought the more basic EP3 setup out of the gate, but the shop that completed the swap wanted to go with this blingier one for whatever reasons. AFAIK there shouldn't be clearance issues with the alt in the stock location so I'm waffling on going back that way after reading the various horror stories about the bolts snapping.

--Matt
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I used to use the same kit you have that deletes the oem auto tensioner and moves the alt down low until I had that bolt break from beating on the car. As long as the oem tensioner isn’t too worn out the ep3 style setup is far more reliable. Another failure point in those k tuned kits are the threaded inserts that you apply the tension into (had that strip out the one for the pulley just from driving). Long story short I will only go with one of those kits again if I absolutely have to for a big manifold. I hope yours Works out with the new spacer and bolt, I did drive for about 6 months on it before having issues.
 

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It does look a lot better having the alternator down low. Those kits are appealing and it’s less for the crank to drive but it’s a toss up. The bolt broke on me inside the WP housing and it was at such an angle that it couldn’t be drilled had to remove and replace everything which left a bad taste.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
It does look a lot better having the alternator down low. Those kits are appealing and it’s less for the crank to drive but it’s a toss up. The bolt broke on me inside the WP housing and it was at such an angle that it couldn’t be drilled had to remove and replace everything which left a bad taste.
Yeah, that's exactly where mine broke.
Auto part Rim Metal Automotive design Vehicle


Looking at the pic above, I'm not sure I can actually run the alt in the stock spot. I've got an HR full width rad so it might not fit.

Any chance you can snap a pic of yours from straight above? I'm curious if it'd fit.

--Matt
 

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Any chance you can snap a pic of yours from straight above? I'm curious if it'd fit.

--Matt
Keeping in mind I have my radiator a little farther forward than is necessary, I think i could still use a full radiator on mine, but definitely not a full shroud like I have. I’ve been contemplating the full size or the passenger side setup but I like how accessible everything under the intake manifold is right now. And I am pretty set on a center feed intake at some point as well.
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I have holes drilled in the traction bar to mount it and this is just where it ended up 😅
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Yeah, that's exactly where mine broke.
View attachment 105971

Looking at the pic above, I'm not sure I can actually run the alt in the stock spot. I've got an HR full width rad so it might not fit.

Any chance you can snap a pic of yours from straight above? I'm curious if it'd fit.

--Matt
Are you going to try and extract or just replace the housing ? Downstar sells a grade 12.9 bolt for that spot but it ends up being like a $15 both with shipping. I just picked up new oem ones for this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
Seems like it should fit. Doesn't look like it sticks out any further than this one, maybe less far actually, and the rad already has to come out if the alt comes out as it is. The fan had to be tucked on the front of the rad, so it isn't in the way.

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Are you going to try and extract or just replace the housing ? Downstar sells a grade 12.9 bolt for that spot but it ends up being like a $15 both with shipping. I just picked up new oem ones for this setup.
I'm gonna leave that up to the shop that did it. I'm sending the car their way next week. I bought a refurbished k20z3 alt and the EP3 idler setup when I sent it up there, but they opted to go for a new RSX alt and the setup that is on there. Particularly after reading others' stories, and having this fail in like 100 miles on my own car, I'm not a fan of the relocation. Yeah, it looks a little cleaner how it is, but the cost doesn't seem worth it.

--Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
Well, I ordered the OE Honda idler, the 50.5" gates belt everyone uses to delete AC on these engines, and a new tensioner. I'm just gonna do this myself at this point, I think, that sheared bolt can be stuck there forever for all I care. This car doesn't have AC so nothing needs to be in there anyways.

I figure there's no apparent need for aftermarket parts here, the look of the Honda stuff doesn't bother me, and it's ever so slightly cheaper (not a concern to me, though, really). For something as trivial as an accessory belt, why reinvent the wheel and add aftermarket stuff when not needed. 🤷‍♂️ K-Tuned sells theirs as a solution to haven't wrong sized belts, but it seems like a bunch of these are on the road with that idler and belt setup between 8th gen civics with AC deletes and swaps.
 

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Well, I ordered the OE Honda idler, the 50.5" gates belt everyone uses to delete AC on these engines, and a new tensioner. I'm just gonna do this myself at this point, I think, that sheared bolt can be stuck there forever for all I care. This car doesn't have AC so nothing needs to be in there anyways.

I figure there's no apparent need for aftermarket parts here, the look of the Honda stuff doesn't bother me, and it's ever so slightly cheaper (not a concern to me, though, really). For something as trivial as an accessory belt, why reinvent the wheel and add aftermarket stuff when not needed. 🤷‍♂️ K-Tuned sells theirs as a solution to haven't wrong sized belts, but it seems like a bunch of these are on the road with that idler and belt setup between 8th gen civics with AC deletes and swaps.
That’s a smart fix moving everything back where it goes and using oem parts.
 
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