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96 civic HX K24a
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My personal exhaust on a previous build was as follows :
Engine -k24/20
All in fab ram horn 2.5” header
3” piping
18” bottle style resonator , was pretty wide as well
Vibrant street power 3” muffler
Added turndown on the end of the muffler

it was very tolerable at normal driving conditions, couldn’t even tell there was a 3” under the car. After vtec it was a rowdy sounding SOB 100% and in my opinion I had my cake and was definitely eating lol I worked around a bunch of v8 guys and even they couldn’t deny she sang a beautiful song. Hope that helps. I am doing the same setup on my new build currently. Same muffler, 18” resonator and 3” piping butwith an RCREW header this time.
 

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96 civic HX K24a
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Maybe something like this could work...


Hard pressed to find any sort of reviews on this brand/style on a 4-cylinder of any sort, though, which worries me a touch. I'd just grab a Dynomax Super Turbo and call it a day, but the only one they make in stainless is too long to fit a hatchback with a sway bar.

--Matt
That muffler looks to have some nice innards to it, should offer some noise reduction 👍
 

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I can tell you 100% the thermal will be loud without a resonator , and the skunk2 is NOT what you’re looking for 😂 had friends with both setups on various engines and none of them were quiet. The skunk2 exhaust gives me buddyclub spec 2 vibes which is another one I don’t care for. Lol have you looked into doing 2 in-line mufflers such as for a sprint car ? They are tubular style so can blend into the mid pipe, paired with another muffler that may give you the sound dampening you’re looking for
 

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K, I think this confirms fitment with a bar...
View attachment 103198
View attachment 103199
View attachment 103200

So that seems like the most "direct fit" possibly. Nice big muffler on the back, hit not so big that it encroaches on suspension. I don't know much about this company, but they do seem to be domestically made by a company in NJ.
Is that the 1320 exhaust ? I had a top mount turbo manifold for b series from them that was very well made. They sell a lot of products alo
I'd think you'd lose nothing at all. Every dyno I've seen, even on untuned bone stock cars, shows gains across the power band with no loss of power anywhere when going from a 2.5" straight through exhaust to a 3" straight through exhaust.
hes going from a 3 back down to 2.5 I believe
 

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Whelp, my shop prefers to work with the KTeller kit so I ordered their 3" stainless setup. I guess I'll have to buy stainless flanges and hangers since the ones they provide aren't for some reason.

Anyone know how you generally deal with the 2.5>3 inch step up? I'm hoping I can find an off-the-shelf 3-bolt 2.5" flange that steps up to 3". We shall see. Tentatively settled on that stainless works muffler for now, and either an 18" or 24" resonator. The Vibrant ultra quiet resonator apparently won't fit comfortably between the rear heat shields since they're only about 6" wide. I see evidence that one might possibly fit in front of the hangers though if needed.

--Matt
I found pieces of pipe that are 2.5”-3” and was going to weld a 2.5” 2 bolt onto the header, and the other end to the 3” flex pipe with a v band to the midpipe.
 

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I don't have any expectations for stock like sound levels. If I can get 3-6dB less than a straight through 2.5" setup I'll be happy with that. I'd have certainly liked to have tried for a twin loop, but they only seem to go up to 2.5" in any reputable brand, so we'll see how the SW turbo muffler and a big glasspack as a resonator goes. 🤞
I’m sure paired with any decent header that will be a nice sounding setup which shouldn’t be too loud. Especially if your car still has the interior and deadening in it.
 

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Here’s a short clip of my k24 with godsnow (ebay) 3” piping, 3” vibrant street power muffler and Rcrew header. When I took this it was right after welding and I hadn’t received my gaskets yet. Revs limited to around 3.5k rpm.

 

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Damn. What’s up with the torque dip between 3800 and 5000? That’s looks to be about 20wtq there. Usually torque is pretty uniform through much of the powerband. Did the tuner explain that?

What header do you have... you mentioned in the very first post that it was a 4-1 header.

KBuilt, I like Vibrant products. That muffler you have there is awesome. Years ago I had a Vibrant 3” street power on a fully 3” exhaust with no converter and that thing was still pretty quiet (I also used a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator too). And that was also in a Del Sol (AKA the rattle can) which is not the quietest Honda in terms of NVH so that was impressive.
It’s by far my favorite one, especially for k series on a full 3”. I’m actually very surprised how tame the car sounds and how quiet it is for having 3 inch piping and a straight through muffler. I’ve always been a firm believer the best place to begin a great sounding exhaust (especially on Hondas) is with a nice quality header.
 

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I guess I should share pics. The pipe right after the header looks like it's taking some SERIOUS heat! I've not dealt with many of these cars before, but that's a crazy amount of blue for an exhaust that's only been together for about a week. In spite of it being 3" pipe, the fitment is a million times better than the Yonaka exhaust. ☺
View attachment 104058
View attachment 104057
View attachment 104060

Don't get me wrong, it's not "quiet" like a factory exhaust by any stretch. It doesn't drone like the last setup, though, and is much quieter at normal cruising RPMs. Once VTEC kicks in the car is pretty rowdy, but I hear the HR intake more than I hear the exhaust there FWIW.
The exhaust came out very nice, I also have the hybrid racing intake and noticed it makes a very pronounced sound as soon as the TB starts to open. I dig it lol. Iat stay very close to ambient temps when moving as well.
 

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It's the current model K-Tuned AC/PS delete mount that relocates it down low. The spacer fell out when it broke, so I have to wait on a replacement from K-Tuned.

I bought the more basic EP3 setup out of the gate, but the shop that completed the swap wanted to go with this blingier one for whatever reasons. AFAIK there shouldn't be clearance issues with the alt in the stock location so I'm waffling on going back that way after reading the various horror stories about the bolts snapping.

--Matt
Vehicle Grille Car Hood Automotive tire

I used to use the same kit you have that deletes the oem auto tensioner and moves the alt down low until I had that bolt break from beating on the car. As long as the oem tensioner isn’t too worn out the ep3 style setup is far more reliable. Another failure point in those k tuned kits are the threaded inserts that you apply the tension into (had that strip out the one for the pulley just from driving). Long story short I will only go with one of those kits again if I absolutely have to for a big manifold. I hope yours Works out with the new spacer and bolt, I did drive for about 6 months on it before having issues.
 

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It does look a lot better having the alternator down low. Those kits are appealing and it’s less for the crank to drive but it’s a toss up. The bolt broke on me inside the WP housing and it was at such an angle that it couldn’t be drilled had to remove and replace everything which left a bad taste.
 

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Any chance you can snap a pic of yours from straight above? I'm curious if it'd fit.

--Matt
Keeping in mind I have my radiator a little farther forward than is necessary, I think i could still use a full radiator on mine, but definitely not a full shroud like I have. I’ve been contemplating the full size or the passenger side setup but I like how accessible everything under the intake manifold is right now. And I am pretty set on a center feed intake at some point as well.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting
Motor vehicle Automotive design Engineering Auto part Machine

I have holes drilled in the traction bar to mount it and this is just where it ended up 😅
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Tire Hood
Hood Motor vehicle Car Automotive design Vehicle
 

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Yeah, that's exactly where mine broke.
View attachment 105971

Looking at the pic above, I'm not sure I can actually run the alt in the stock spot. I've got an HR full width rad so it might not fit.

Any chance you can snap a pic of yours from straight above? I'm curious if it'd fit.

--Matt
Are you going to try and extract or just replace the housing ? Downstar sells a grade 12.9 bolt for that spot but it ends up being like a $15 both with shipping. I just picked up new oem ones for this setup.
 
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