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question about k20/k24 swap with heat

3256 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  ekracer98
I have Integra with k20a2 I kept the heater. Having some issues though.
The issue is the metal heater pipe and all the small 5/16 hose barbs not being used.
I removed all the barbs from the upper radiator hose neck with pliers then drilled them taped.
Used an Allen head plug with hondabond.

The metal heater pipe hose barb located right below cam sensors see picture below.
I had a hose on it with a clamp and it needed to go looked half***. Plus didn't matter how tight the clamp was it just leaked. I'd like to delete it plug it and seal it off for good.

Now before anyone mentions just cut it off and weld it shut. Well, I don't own a welder and my welds would leak.
As for friends who can weld they cant weld either at least good enough for it to look decent let alone be sealed.

What do I do with the metal heater pipe barb below the cam sensors?
Can I cut it down smaller and tap it and jam a set screw in it, maybe a bolt with some PTFE thread sealant.
Adding a rubber cap plug with clamp works but they dry rot quick.

Open to suggestions for cant weld or no anyone who can near me least so it's sealed.
Anyone else running a swap with the heater still installed and working?

Please delete admin if not right place for posting

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Just put a k24a2 into my sibling parents in law vehicle and it appears as though the indoor regulator isn't opening. I utilized the k20 thermo on the k24 water siphon. Fans kick on at 190 yet the temp simply continues to climb. Any thoughts? The indoor regulator fell off the k20 that we took out and it turned out only great previously. Is there some way I could have over forced the bolts to the lodging and squeezed it forever shut?
Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system.
I have Integra with k20a2 I kept the heater. Having some issues though.
The issue is the metal heater pipe and all the small 5/16 hose barbs not being used.
I removed all the barbs from the upper radiator hose neck with pliers then drilled them taped.
Used an Allen head plug with hondabond.

The metal heater pipe hose barb located right below cam sensors see picture below.
I had a hose on it with a clamp and it needed to go looked half***. Plus didn't matter how tight the clamp was it just leaked. I'd like to delete it plug it and seal it off for good.

Now before anyone mentions just cut it off and weld it shut. Well, I don't own a welder and my welds would leak.
As for friends who can weld they cant weld either at least good enough for it to look decent let alone be sealed.

What do I do with the metal heater pipe barb below the cam sensors?
Can I cut it down smaller and tap it and jam a set screw in it, maybe a bolt with some PTFE thread sealant.
Adding a rubber cap plug with clamp works but they dry rot quick.

Open to suggestions for cant weld or no anyone who can near me least so it's sealed.
Anyone else running a swap with the heater still installed and working?

Please delete admin if not right place for posting

View attachment 104380
This isn’t a very “proper” way to block coolant lines off but you can thread a 10 ,12, or 14 bolt into the other end of the hose and use a clamp. As long as both clamps are tight it won’t leak. I would try to find an exhaust or metal shop to take your heater pipe to as having those holes welded shut (as you stated ) is the best option. Other than that you’re looking JB WELD lol
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