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I was planning on buying a block-off kit to completely eliminate the heater hose hard lines on my motor. I passed this idea on to my stepdad who brought up a good point that I began wondering about.

Would using a plug like this end up causing a "hot spot" in the head/block since you are no longer having direct flow to that area? Or are the coolant passages designed that even if you do block off that plug coolant will be able to flow through head sufficiently and not have any problems with warping as a result of too much heat.:confused:


I was thinking about getting the k-tuned water pump block off kit and running an electric water pump and noticed that there isnt a place to run any heater hard line so i would have to eliminate it altogether. Right now I just have the hose looped from the hard line back to the head. I dont know if anyone would have a coolant flow diagram for a kseries motor, but if someone does, please post it!:dance: Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
 

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im guesing your talking about a k20?
i have a k24a2 and its routed dif...but im doing the same thing. so i couldnt be of any specific use.
but...i did have this done on a gsr motor (turbo/built etc) no heater core. just capped it on the head and thermostat tube...worked fine.
ive seen this done on k series and i havent hear of any problems.

especialy if your building it or racing it. you not going to have the motor together more then 50k miles..itl be torn down and parted out or worked on again before you could notice any warping.

either way coolant will still flow in the motor and wont stagnate...if it does your problem started sumwhere else like the water pump.

if anyone could share a coolant diagram for a k20 or 24 that would be very nice of you.

my plans is to delete heater core and delete iacv(shave and weld shut the intake mani part of the iacv) so... jus 2 hoses, bottom radiator hose and upper radaitor hose...but i heard heat problems occure when you dont run the 3rd hose from the bottom thermostat to the upper water neck...
 

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I was planning on buying a block-off kit to completely eliminate the heater hose hard lines on my motor. I passed this idea on to my stepdad who brought up a good point that I began wondering about.

Would using a plug like this end up causing a "hot spot" in the head/block since you are no longer having direct flow to that area? Or are the coolant passages designed that even if you do block off that plug coolant will be able to flow through head sufficiently and not have any problems with warping as a result of too much heat.:confused:


I was thinking about getting the k-tuned water pump block off kit and running an electric water pump and noticed that there isnt a place to run any heater hard line so i would have to eliminate it altogether. Right now I just have the hose looped from the hard line back to the head. I dont know if anyone would have a coolant flow diagram for a kseries motor, but if someone does, please post it!:dance: Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!
There will not be any problems with capping the heater core outlets on your motor. This has been done for years without problems. The main coolant flow through the engine will be from the water pump and the larger rad hoses.

What exactly do you think happens when you close the heater valve with your heat controls on the dash? The result is blocked heater hoses to lower the temp inside the car.

As for the water pump block off plate we only recommend it for race cars not daily driven cars.

If you have anymore questions please feel free to PM me or give us a call.
 

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I personally wouldn't delete the third hose because it will restrict flow from the block to the cylinder head. I have both heater block plugs and removed the hardline on the motor and haven't had any issues
 

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The above post is correct, the coolant bypass hose from the lower T-stat housing to the upper coolant neck should be left in place on street driven cars. It allows coolant to circulate through the motor even when the T-stat is closed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The above post is correct, the coolant bypass hose from the lower T-stat housing to the upper coolant neck should be left in place on street driven cars. It allows coolant to circulate through the motor even when the T-stat is closed.
With the water pump block off kit, it completely eliminates the thermostat correct? I have never ran one in my car anyway, cause with the one that came with the swivel neck kit, it was always overheating so I just took the damn thing out.
 

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We have a plug and bracket that is used to delete the heater hose hard line. In the first post you can see our heater outlet plug to delete the heater line on the cyl. head. With these two parts the heater lines are gone.
 

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(for search and reference puprposes)
this is pic is for a k24a2 coolant hole.

i got the ktuned upper water neck and used the screw to cap the heater hose. then used the nozzle that came with it for the heater hose for the "3rd" coolant hose that goes from the top to the bottom waterneck.

i tapped it and put this in and jb welded the junk out of it, then painted it.
Auto part Engine Plastic
 

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(for search and reference puprposes)
this is pic is for a k24a2 coolant hole.

i got the ktuned upper water neck and used the screw to cap the heater hose. then used the nozzle that came with it for the heater hose for the "3rd" coolant hose that goes from the top to the bottom waterneck.

i tapped it and put this in and jb welded the junk out of it, then painted it.
View attachment 20736
I find it weird you did that.

isnt that where the hondata gasket is supposed to go? I have an '06 K24a2..the same spot you put that "weld" is where my hondata IM gasket covered it.

Now unless you're running a cut RBC IM then I can see why you did that. My RBC was a direct fit and I have the coolant line running the t-stat to the RBC :up:
 

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To bring this back from the dead... Do you just plug the two heater hoses by the firewall or should these be looped? any idea the sizes on DC5? Thanks.
 

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:hmmm:...............

on the wall. those dont have to be looped but should def be plugged or covered with sumthing. so when driving you dont small birds/chickens/rocks kicked up in them unless you dont ever plan on using the heater again.

update.. my ghetto mod worked perfect and held up
 

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We have a plug and bracket that is used to delete the heater hose hard line. In the first post you can see our heater outlet plug to delete the heater line on the cyl. head. With these two parts the heater lines are gone.
On the hardline heater hose isn't there a hose that comes from it going to the throttle body/iacv? are you able to block that off as well? Thanks.
 

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On the hardline heater hose isn't there a hose that comes from it going to the throttle body/iacv? are you able to block that off as well? Thanks.
yes you can just cap that off with a rubber cap and clamp or whatever your heart desires. Are you gonna be using your IACV?
 

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yes you can just cap that off with a rubber cap and clamp or whatever your heart desires. Are you gonna be using your IACV?
I was planning on using it as i thought this was required? is it possible with capping that port off?

heres a photo of the hard hose...

 
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