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First off my car will be primarily a track car but with the occasional weekend run or meet. Not a dd but streeted sometimes.

I recently purchased a ktuned ac/ps delete and their swivel thermostat housing for my k24. After realizing how much I had spent on those I realized the water pump block off plate w/ electric pump wasn't that much more, and it also deletes ac/ps, as well as water pump and thermostat housing. I'm not running a heater so that isn't an issue. And I think freeing up the rotating mass of the water pump will also free up some hp. As well as keep my temps lower on the track. This will also delete the recirculation hose. So my question is what are the cons to doing this setup? Is it ok for the street or long drives? The one thing that I'm seeing is I won't be able to run my oem oil cooler setup as the bib on the water pump will all be gone. So weigh in k20, pros? Cons? Streetable?
 

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Our Water Plate kit is really intended for race cars only.
More specifically targeted to drag race cars. Generally speaking, we would not recommend using this setup for street driven or road course cars either. Although I have had a couple roadcourse racers set this up to cool off bigger engines. I also recall selling a kit to a simple K20 street car several years ago. That car spent very little time on the road though.

Ric, for an engine setup like yours, where you intend to street drive and road race, I would keep it simple and stick to the pulley kit and swivel neck that you just bought from us. The benefits of this kit would be minimal in your application.
 

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So an electric pump wouldn't keep temps lower than conventional pump? With no heater I'd like temps as low as possible. And cleanliness is really what I'm after. But I guess all the plumbing to make the elec pump work properly isn't too clean. With a remote thermo and all.
 

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I was actually considering adding an electric system for my elise which im planning a K24/20 engine for. I figured it would be nice to remove the mechanical one and replace with the electric one, theres not much space in the back of these cars and there is some easy places to mount the pump also. But that said if its truly meaningless for an occasional circuit race car (running around 280hp engine) and weekender, then maybe ill give it a skip?

Not sure
 

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I was actually considering adding an electric system for my elise which im planning a K24/20 engine for. I figured it would be nice to remove the mechanical one and replace with the electric one, theres not much space in the back of these cars and there is some easy places to mount the pump also. But that said if its truly meaningless for an occasional circuit race car (running around 280hp engine) and weekender, then maybe ill give it a skip?

Not sure
I would stick to the stock pump. As K tuned pointed out there really isn't much to be gained for a street/circuit racer. Besides I am firmly of the belief that "if it ain't broke don't fix it". You would be paying money/time to switch away from a reliable OEM setup.
 

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I would stick to the stock pump. As K tuned pointed out there really isn't much to be gained for a street/circuit racer. Besides I am firmly of the belief that "if it ain't broke don't fix it". You would be paying money/time to switch away from a reliable OEM setup.
If we all were firm believers in this saying, this site wouldnt even be working and K swaps would be nonexistent
 

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Hhaha true. I just figured mechanical pumps are such old tech. Yes they work, but the m800 and control one via Pwm through a solid state relay and actually target a CLT instead of relying on a slow acting thermostat to open and close. That said, I'm just a hack for cool tech and like playing around haha.
 

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Despite all this, I daily it with NO issues lol, I had more problems before I upgraded to the electric water pump.(was using the ktuned lower thermostat housing and thermostat
the biggest problem with an electric water pump retrofit is that it's peak coolant flow rate is much less than that of the engine driven pump. that is generally OK for drag racing and light duty driving, but for high-power continuous running your temp increase across the engine will get very high and this can effect things like head cracking, head gasket issues, and knock resistance. Also, even though the electric pump itself is efficient, it is all powered by the alternator which is only about 60% efficient, so you are not really gaining overall efficiency.

Dave
 

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the biggest problem with an electric water pump retrofit is that it's peak coolant flow rate is much less than that of the engine driven pump. that is generally OK for drag racing and light duty driving, but for high-power continuous running your temp increase across the engine will get very high and this can effect things like head cracking, head gasket issues, and knock resistance. Also, even though the electric pump itself is efficient, it is all powered by the alternator which is only about 60% efficient, so you are not really gaining overall efficiency.
I agree with you Dave. The KTuned stuff (plate inlet ID and pump) are completely under designed. Another not well engineered stuff from their shelf. They should claim this works out only for the quarter mile and short time attacks. I revised the design of the coolant inlet of the KTuned plate to an 32 mm ID and use a CWA400, which has more then 100 times higher pump height at the necessary flow capacity of around 175+ l/min at WOT of an proper circuit 2 Liter NA engine. That KTuned stuff works out only for short time use of the engine on WOT, NOTHING for Autobahn, Curcuit Racing, Hill Climbs and such applications.
 

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I agree with you Dave. The KTuned stuff (plate inlet ID and pump) are completely under designed. Another not well engineered stuff from their shelf. They should claim this works out only for the quarter mile and short time attacks. I revised the design of the coolant inlet of the KTuned plate to an 32 mm ID and use a CWA400, which has more then 100 times higher pump height at the necessary flow capacity of around 175+ l/min at WOT of an proper circuit 2 Liter NA engine. That KTuned stuff works out only for short time use of the engine on WOT, NOTHING for Autobahn, Curcuit Racing, Hill Climbs and such applications.
Found this thread looking into block off plates to allow the use of electric water pumps. Do you have info on how you installed the CWA400? I'm now considering converting to electric pump. Do you also use a tinyCWA controller? I know another Fiat owner using one by Tecomotive in the UK.
 

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Do you have info on how you installed the CWA400? I'm now considering converting to electric pump. Do you also use a tinyCWA controller? I know another Fiat owner using one by Tecomotive in the UK.
Not specifically, only what I've posted in my thread. There you will find I don't use the tinyCWA controller (German company), I still have a CWA200 and the tinyCWA controller in my shelf. I use the Infinity ECU for that, which does pretty much the same closed loop ECT control as my boost controller based ECT control.
 

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Not specifically, only what I've posted in my thread. There you will find I don't use the tinyCWA controller (German company), I still have a CWA200 and the tinyCWA controller in my shelf. I use the Infinity ECU for that, which does pretty much the same closed loop ECT control as my boost controller based ECT control.
Thank you for responding.
I looked through your profile for discussions started by you - I don't know which thread has the info, can you link it?

The CWA200 was insufficient for your needs? That was the one suggested to me, but is the 400 more suitable for rear engine application?
 

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I looked through your profile for discussions started by you - I don't know which thread has the info, can you link it?
Start here: You want to win up to $50? The 86.5x86 rebuild question! | Page 23 | Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum, but there is more in later postings too.

The CWA200 was insufficient for your needs? That was the one suggested to me, but is the 400 more suitable for rear engine application?
Yeap, the rear engine location rises the pressure drop requirements which has to be handled.

The situation of insuffcient cooling flow would increase and the application would consequently be limited. Of course, much is depended on the piping design, length and size, but the Thermostat I use is one which has a pressure-forced open functionality (e.g. hard WOT, it opens just by an increased pressure by an increased flow), which can be used to open big circuit much earlier for pilot control. The CWA200 has not the flow at the necessary pressure.
 
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