Honda / Acura K20a K24a Engine Forum banner

1 - 20 of 83 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Had this car for a little while now and it's been slowly getting faster and faster.
When I first picked it up about 2 years ago it looked like this.





It was a little bit slammed for my taste and not fond of the 2" ground clearance of the oil pan. So I ordered some new wheels and tires. Being that this wasn't intended to be a daily driver and I like traction I went with some 205/50/15 MT up front and some 165/80/15 in the rear(poor mans muscle car skinnies). I also raised the coilovers up in the front a bit and maxed the rear to help prevent weight transfer.

Next I tackled a wiring mess. Pulled out some unnecessary stuff and cleaned up a few connections. To this day I still need to go back and tidy up a few more wires but just haven't had the time.


I also pulled out all the audio equipment and sold it at this time.

Next I ripped off the banged up warm air intake that was sucking hot air off the exhaust manifold and fabbed up a 3" to pull cooler air. I am currently working on a new set up.
Also removed the non functioning AC compressor and installed a shorter belt.


Once I finally got the car road worthy I found some disturbing information. The Kpro MAP the car had been running on was leaning out at 13.8 WOT. :O
So I uploaded and tweaked a Toda base map. It ran rich, but it was safe and pulled so much better. I also replaced my TPS sensor with a nice billet Ktuned at this time, due to a failing factory sensor.

It was time to see what she would do at the track. The car was still running rich and with the launch control set at 2500 rpm I managed some high 13's.

Not to shabby for a stock 4 cylinder with some bolt-ons, but it could do better.

Next I cut out the high flow cat, but decided to keep the restrictive 2.5" but quiet exhaust/muffler. I am considering going 3" now because I believe that 2.5" along with the restricitive muffler is holding the car back on top end.
High flow cat that was replaced with straight pipe.


I also scored a nice already cut RBC intake manifold(06+SI) for 175$. I put that on along with a Hondata intake manifold gasket and bypassed the throttle body heater.
I also decided the current seats and brackets were to heavy at 45lbs a piece. I swapped in an aluminum Kirkey seat for the driver and a plastic summit seat for the passenger. Dropped about 60lbs


Time for another trip to the track. The new intake manifold helped lean the tune out and the car pulled noticeably better. I was having issues with the launch control and again could only launch at 2500 rpm.
I was hoping for 12's but only low 13's
[email protected] in street trim on radials, still not to shabby.



I raced a 2008 mustang with I/E gears and tune the other night is Mexico. He went 12.8 on radials. He was on street tires this night though.



Hoping to finish the supercharger setup soon.
The car weighs around 1900-2000lbs and only makes aprox. 200whp, so another 100-200whp should= fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Made a little progress today. Drilled out my mounting plate and mounted the charger. I have to trim the plate and will eventually paint or plasti dip black.

I cut and fitted my charge pipe. Fit and lined up perfect just as I had envisioned in my head. I will paint or dip black as well.

I haven't quite figured out how I am going to get a filter on the square SC intake. Open to suggestions.

Next I swapped the ribbed pulley for a smooth pulley. My belt measurements were off a bit so I need to go pick up a slightly shorter one tomorrow. Should have plenty of belt wrap to prevent slippage.
Before

After
c
Once I get the proper belt I will do some function testing.
Waiting on the injectors to come back from Injector Rehab, then maybe I can do some low boost tuning next week. After last night and with this hot weather I may just wait till I get a the meth kit on.
Also put some fresh oil in the charger. The old oil I drained smelled pretty nasty. These things are supposed to be good for 100k without changing the oil. Being that I picked it up on ebay for $200 with unknown mileage I figured some fresh oil couldn't hurt.


This is a budget setup. I have only about $8000 in it including price of car. The whole supercharger setup should set me back another $1000.

Modified Injectors that I picked up for $25.
Before:


After:



The modfied injectors and walbro 195 at 55psi static will be limited to around 350whp by my estimate. If I run the blower up to my 8600 rpm limit the SC will be spinning at 14000-15000 rpm and creating a lot of heat. Meth injection should keep it under control though and I may eventually get a 255 walbro and spray a 35 or 50 shot. Clutch upgrade will be a must.

Going to take baby steps. Set my rev limit low and see what it does on low boost.
I plan to control the boost with a normally opened 3/4" solenoid controlled by KPro. The normally opened solenoid will bleed off boost while cruising and in 1st maybe second gear at WOT. Using the kpro the solenoid will close at WOT at whichever rpm and speed I choose achieving max boost. When I let off and in between gears it will open and serve as a bypass valve.

Its all theory at this point but I dont see why it wont work. No one else has done anything like this on a k20 that I am aware of. Its all just a big experiment and satisfies my need to tinker with shit. If it all goes south Ill just pick up a $500 K24A4 and try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. Yes it's off a 94 Thunderbird. The stock intake tube is kinda funky and large.


Picked up a 63" Gates belt and it was still too long. Looks like I will have to go with a Dayco. They make a 61" and 61.5". One of those should work. I hope. :tear:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,977 Posts
why did you run the blower like that, may I ask, the m90 is kinda a lagger by blower standards, you will really have to overspin it to fill the additional tubing.

project looks great, jusst has me scratching my head
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
why did you run the blower like that, may I ask, the m90 is kinda a lagger by blower standards, you will really have to overspin it to fill the additional tubing.

project looks great, jusst has me scratching my head
Thanks.
To answer your question:

A. Its not my daily.
B. I wanted a little more power for little money. People spend $1000 on turbo manifolds alone.
C. I wanted simple and modular. I can be back to NA in 30 min and ready to run AMS at IFO events.

I know the heaton isnt the most efficient blower and turbo will be best, but if I can get an extra 100-150whp out of it that will be just fine. Throw a small shot of N20 on it and it will cheap fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ran out of options for 7 rib belt. I got a 6 rib belt on and working. I had to remove the upper idler to get it on, may not be enough belt wrap now though.
The bigger issue I have is maybe a bearing in the SC? It sounds like a damn weed eater! Maybe because the charge pipe is wide open and no intake or throttle body in front of the SC? Anyone have experience with a bad eaton? My fear was having to send the SC out to be rebuilt. If that's the case, a turbo setup is looking more reasonable. :thud:
I will hook the charge pipe up tomorrow and see if it is any better at idle.
Still waiting on my injectors to come back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
755 Posts
I don't get it. So is that aluminum plate just sitting on top of the RBC manifold, or is the RBC cut along with the plate to allow the air to get in. I don't get how this works if it's just a blower with a pulley. Maybe i'm not that bright either. I don't know. So school me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,977 Posts
that belt setup wont work, the belt will probably launch off when you actually spool boost. even if it doesnt launch off, you will destroy the snout bearings pretty quick

you also have no release bypass valve either, so the blower will always be spooling boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I don't get it. So is that aluminum plate just sitting on top of the RBC manifold, or is the RBC cut along with the plate to allow the air to get in. I don't get how this works if it's just a blower with a pulley. Maybe i'm not that bright either. I don't know. So school me
The charge pipe is not hooked up in the video. See pics above. Air is sucked.in through the square inlet on the SC the compresses and forced out the 2.75" charge pipe to the throttle body.
The bypass will be a 3/4" normally open solenoid in the charge pipe venting to the atmosphere. It will be controlled by kpro N20 controller to close at a set mph/wot in 2nd or third gear. Basically allowing a low and high boost. When I let off the throttle tue solenoid will return to its normally open state and vent pressure between shifts.

Pleas elaborate on how the bearings will be destroyed? The auto tensioner is holding the belt with perfect tension?
I dont know everything so please enlighten me. I would be greatly appreciative.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,977 Posts
Because of the angle it is essentially pulling the snout. The auto tensioner is fine for na but typically causes belt slip with boost. Please take into account it take roughly 50 HP for a blower to make 10 psi.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Pretty sure people have run a modified stock tensioner with the JRSC. That setup is almost identical to mine except I have a few extra inches of clearance between the pulleys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #13

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Injectors were just delivered. Looks like they turned out good for only $25 used and another $75 to have them cleaned and tested.
310 CC stock,
480 CC after modified by me.
576 CC after cleaning and servicing.
With methanol injection I should be able to squeeze 350whp out of these on 93 pump.



Sadly my work schedule has changed and along with the 100+ degree temps it may be a month or so before I continue on with this project. I want to get these injectors dialed in on my NA tune first, then I will put the SC back on for some low boost tuning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I came up with an idea on how to run a filter.
First I cut up a AEM dryflow I had laying around.


Next I had some sheet metal lying around and fabbed these up with some tin snips and a dremel.

My plan is to use some gasket material and sandwich the filter element between the two plates then bolt it up to the charger intake.

I painted the front plate black.


Thinking about painting a face on there like this. A crude MS paint rendition.


Or maybe Domo nom nom guy. :D The red filter where the mouth is would be perfect.


Yey, ney or gay??? :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Update.
First I cut/trimmed and plastidipped the mounting plate.


Next I fabbed up my intake filter idea. It was a great success up until I overdosed on gasket seal. I screwed it all up and will have to start over.
This is the gasket seal aftermath. Messed up my awesome Domo nom nom paint job bad. :(

Should look something like this when done but cleaned up.

Now I have to do it all over again. It was very time consuming....

I was hoping to have it all together with filter today for some low boost testing without methonal.
I couldn't wait any longer. It works!!! Had some issues with a base map, so I went back to my NA tune and tweaked it.
It is running rich, 11.0-11.5 but it's only making 7.5 #'s at 7500 RPM with the bypass wide open. IAT never got above 126F and it's near 100F ambient right now.
The only issue I have is I believe tip in, which I am unfamiliar with. If I try to punch it it just bogs, but if I roll into it, then mash it it is all good. Might have to do some more reasearch and further my tuning knowledge.

I still have to clean up some things, install meth, rasie boost and maybe a small 35 Shot down the road.

Now for the good stuff :)
Video is shit, but it's kinda hard to vid and drive sorry, but I wanted to share the fun and excitement of this thing finally in operation. Pulls alright but nothing super fast. Still have a ways to go before I up the boost.





 

·
...doesn't give a shit.
Joined
·
9,570 Posts
Cool set up. I'm interested in seeing how this all turns out. Is the bypass on the charge pipe from the M90?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Very very interesting build, my only question is, what elevation are you at? I ask because those NA times you were running is what I am expecting to do in basically a full weight RSX-S, I figured an EG with my mods would be an easy 12 second car. No disrespect meant, just thought K swapped hatches were faster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Cool set up. I'm interested in seeing how this all turns out. Is the bypass on the charge pipe from the M90?
Actually I just have a 3/4" hole in the charge pipe for now, so it is more of a boost bleed then a bypass. I plan to hook up a 3/4" solenoid later to regulate and control boost through KPro.

Very very interesting build, my only question is, what elevation are you at? I ask because those NA times you were running is what I am expecting to do in basically a full weight RSX-S, I figured an EG with my mods would be an easy 12 second car. No disrespect meant, just thought K swapped hatches were faster.
200ft elevation here.
I have never really launched the car hard, usually leave at 3500-3800 rpm. I'm far from a pro tuner so I'm sure I'm lacking some power there, plus the DC header and Apexi WS2 don't help. I was running the same times against a K24 hatch in Belle Rose, and a full second faster than another K20 hatch.
There are so many variables it's hard to compare. For a stock K20a2 with bolt-ons I figure my traps and times are average.
The track can hurt your feelings sometimes. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
The track can hurt your feelings sometimes. Good luck and let me know how it goes.
Oh, I definitely have heard that many many times before and know from experience it to be true. I will let you know my times when I go towards the end of the season when it gets cooler out.

And you are right, you'd prob gain another 10whp with a PLM header and 3 inch exhaust.

Edit - was talking about the 13.3 @ 105 time, guess I should have been more specific, where you're at now is great for a basic NA build
 
1 - 20 of 83 Posts
Top