Thanks guys i was wondering how i was going to do this...
If you plan to autox, I highly believe that you will absolutely love adding P/S into your vehicle, especially if you have a slow manual rack. Not only was I not able to turn my car fast enough in slaloms w/o P/S, but the effort required was unbearable. I basically had to drive slower because my hands/arms were not physically fast enough to turn the wheel quick enough in tight slaloms, even though the car itself was much more capable. I debated on trying out a Quaife gear set, which would definitely decrease the steering wheel revolutions for a set wheel output; however, I knew that would just add more difficulty with the steering as that gear set would create a mechanical disadvantage for the driver. Since I've added the P/S, my car is ridiculously easy to drive fast and in control when on the limits; and when just daily driving, the car seemed to transform into a luxury car. Additionally, you know how when you run a lot of camber (to have a nice setup for autox for an ideal contact patch), but then when daily driving your car darts all over from left to right due to slight road inconsistencies, well, I can't say that has completely gone away, but the P/S definitely dampens that effect GREATLY! Anyway, onto the install...
Remove the spline coupling from the old rack and drop the rack/crossmember out...
No more rack/crossmember...
Old rack/crossmember (top) compared to 01 ITR rack/crossmember (bottom)
Civic input spline on old rack...
Integra input spline on new rack...
Obviously, you will need an Integra spline coupling to connect your steering linkage to the Integra rack...
My ITR rack lines were cut and beat up, so I replaced them with new ones...
Lines and rear mount bolted up and ready to install...
Get a friend, or use some jacks to help get the crossmember assembly into position to bolt up...
Rear mount connected...
Might as well add an ITR bar...
If you tried to install a stock P/S pump/pulley setup into an EG, you would have to cut a hole completely through your hood to get the pulley to fit. This is not the case on an EK or DC2, as there is enough hood clearance to just notch out the inner skeleton. After notching out my inner hood skeleton and realizing it wasn't going to happen, I started making plans to cut the hood. Luckily, a day before I planned on destroying the hood, I stumbled upon a pic of a Jackson Racing supercharger installed in an RSX. It was at that point when I realized something was up w/ the P/S pulley. It looked just slightly smaller in O.D., almost perfect for my application. So anyway, after ordering Jackson Racing P/N: 052-154 and checking it out, I was able to breathe a nice sigh of relief.
For a k20a2, you will want the belt shown below (52.2" long). I ran this belt initially on the k20a; but after some use, the belt has worn in and seated such that the tensioner is almost maxed out in its travel. For a k20a or k20z1 I would recommend going with the next shortest size which is a 52.0" long belt (to compensate for the smaller prc crank pulley).
Jackson Racing pulley installed. P/N: 052-154
For the fluid return, you could opt to go with a stock setup, but the cost of the parts just for a mediocre return did not seem to be worth it. I opted to get some 3/8" I.D. hose and utilize a $40 oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries. P/N: 1007
It even mounted effortlessly in the vertical front bulkhead support.
RSX P/S reservoir mounted w/ return hoses hooked up...
Integra spline coupling connected..
For the high pressure hose, an 02-04 RSX Base or Type-S will work nicely. Whatever you do, do not get an 05+ high pressure hose! The fitting to go into the Integra/Civic P/S rack will not work as Honda increased the fitting size in 05 and up RSX's.
Bolt on the high pressure hose to the P/S pump.
Note: The one thing I didn't do, which can gain extra clearance, is to flip the plastic return connector on the pump upside-down. There is an existing hole in the pump that allows you to do this; but you need to tap it, such that you can thread in a screw to mount. This was an area where my hood would rub on, and over time I ended up cracking the carbon fiber hood because I did not address the issue quick enough. You may alternatively choose to do what k20a.org user kommon_sense has shared with us on Post #154.
Update: Option #2 - Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering!!!
Additional parts needed:
Karcepts P/N: K-ES-0001 - EHPS Bracket; 91-95 MR2 Pump - Qty=1
EHPS Bracket Bolts - Hex Head Cap Screw; Zinc-Plated Steel; M10x1.25; 30mm Long - Qty=2
EHPS Pump - 91-95 Toyota MR2 Electro-Hydraulic Power Steering Pump - Qty=1
90385-13005 - Toyota Bushing - Qty=2
90560-10069 - Toyota Spacer - Qty=2
90119-10631 - Toyota Bolt - Qty=2
Hydraulic Components (Obviously, the 02-04 RSX Base or Type-S High Pressure Hose is no longer needed):
Obtain a custom high pressure hose assembly from a local hose shop, or make your own with the first 3 part numbers below.
RUS-632600 - Russell Hose, Powerflex, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 3 ft. Length - Qty=1
RUS-620411 - Russell Fitting, Hose End, Power Steering, 45 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Steel, Nickel Plated - Qty=1
RUS-620421 - Russell Fitting, Hose End, Power Steering, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Steel, Nickel Plated - Qty=1
RUS-670531 - Russell Fitting, Straight, AN Flare to Metric, Aluminum, -6 AN to 16mm x 1.5 Male - Qty=1
RUS-670521 - Russell Fitting, Straight, AN Flare to Metric, Aluminum, -6 AN to 14mm x 1.5 Male - Qty=1
EAR-780610ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -10 AN, 6 ft. Length - Qty=1
EAR-781006ERL - Earl's Hose, Super Stock, Rubber, Black, -6 AN, 10 ft. Length - Qty=1
V23232-A0001-X003 - Tyco 12V 75A SPST Power Relay With Diode Suppression (same as Bosch 0 332 002 156 ) - Qty=1
181100F 100A 12V - Auto-Reset Circuit Breaker - Qty=1
Follow wiring schematic provided by: www.driveev.com
Source the electrical components here: www.evsource.com