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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

I'm a Brit, so please bear with me on the language barrier!

I'm copying this thread off another forum. This first post is from late 2015 when I bought the car.

I've always loved my EP3s. The problem is the cost of modifying them beyond basic levels is extortionate. My solution has been to therefore search for one ready modified.

I found one a couple of weeks ago that was a perfect spec for track albeit in need of some tidying and removal of scene mods.

Here she is on her first trackday at Oulton Park today!






Since buying her I've done the following
- Bought a replacement cam cover from Spooner restorations
- Bought a Tegiwa M induction kit
- Bought various engine bay dress up parts
- Removed wind deflectors
- Removed comedy rear tow-hook
- Change stickerbombed centre console for OEM silver one
- Swapped suede steering wheel for MOMO one
- Fitted Cobra carbon fibre bucket seats
- Fit 3x Stack 52mm gauges in a triple DIN slot
- Padded the roll cage
- Added some JDM floor mats
- Added correct Type-R decals to skirts
- Added Nurburgring Type-R decal to boot
- Added a new genuine Honda rear H badge
- Fitted front tow strap (hidden)
- Added tow stickers


ENGINE SPEC


  • 270.3bhp (dyno'd @ TDI North)
  • JDM cams
  • Hondata K100 ecu
  • RBC inlet with spacer
  • AEM induction kit (wanting a Tegiwa carbon scoop one)
  • DC sports exhaust manifold
  • Solid fabrications full stainless 3" system (maximum motorway speed is 62mph before tinnitus)
  • Kaaz plated differential
  • M-factory 5.84 final drive
  • Lightened and balanced Fidanza flywheel
  • Exedy oem clutch


  • Polished rocker cover (Spooner crackle black one ordered)
  • M- factory catch tank cable tied in place
  • Mocal Oil cooler
  • Avid solid engine mounts


BODY
  • Fully Painted Ford Frozen white
  • Seibon Carbon bonnet (to be wrapped white)
  • Facelift head lights (HIDs going in)
  • Mugen front splitter (will add STUKE splitter in time)
  • Rear diffuser
  • Wind deflectors removed and binned!

CHASSIS

  • Standard type R wheels in red (to be painted white)
  • Michelin Pilot Sport 2's (upgrading to Federal RS-R)
  • Yellow speed adjutable coilovers - New - fully set up
  • Front 1.5deg caster, 2deg camber 1.5mm toe
  • Skunk 2 rear control arms (will upgrade to buddy club)
  • Buddy club rear camber arms (2 deg)
  • Progress rear anti roll bar and brace
  • Ksport 8 pots running mintex racing 155 pads (upgrading to DS2500)
  • Rear drilled grooved RBC discs & pads
  • ATE super blue fluid in braided lines


INTERIOR
  • OMP 6 point roll cage
  • Cobra full carbon fibre bucket seats
  • TRS 4 point harnesses
  • 3x VDO 52mm gauges (voltmeter, oil temp, oil pressure) in DIN slot
  • Momo steering wheel
  • Skunk2 gearknob
  • Stripped out rear


More mods to follow soon, I'll be sure to add plenty of pictures and a write up etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's my refurbished cam cover, back from Spooner Restorations. Crackle black finish, probably similar to Robert Mugabes' ballbag I'd imagine.






Next up I bought a trio of 52mm Stack gauges. Oil pressure, oil temperature and a voltmeter. I thought it's worth it considering the useage the car is getting! I also bought a DIN sized triple gauge slot, which I'm hugely impressed with! It tilts the gauges slightly toward the driver and looks really good (in my opinion) compared to pillar pods.



All fitted and illuminating, just need to fit the senders when I come to do the next oil change (will get a sandwich plate for the oil filter)

It's been a busy week on my Civic, sorting out the mismatch of external colours which let it down so badly

First up I took the black wing mirrors and red spoiler and turned my front room into a spray booth


Masked them up, panel wiped, room heated to 25 degrees. The result is not bad (pre lacquer)


Gonna let them harden off for a few days then 2000 grit and cut them back to a shine.

The wheels have been powdercoated to match too. £20 a rim :) I've tyre painted them too. I was quite impressed with these Michelins but they don't have a lot of life left in 2 of them. Gonna have to make some decisions in the spring.


Centre caps will follow with the red H logo :) The exterior of the car is now all white, with the exception of the carbon bonnet which I'm holding off getting wrapped for now.

Also, my new daily driver has arrived. Audi A4 avant.


Plans are to lower it, ICE it and see if I can get mega miles out of it!
 

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Here's the first pic with the all-white look.



Mainly I'm clearing garage space for her, for a dozen or so mods / jobs I've got lined up for over Xmas/new year.

She also now has a private plate on the way! Stay tuned :)

The Audi passed the MOT as well, happy days.

Next I got a billet aluminium AEM fuel rail


I set about removing the OEM fuel rail and swapping to some new injector o-rings.

The AEM has the added benefit of housing your injector wiring, which tidies things up nicely. There are also provisions for aeroquip style fittings on the fuel rail ends and also fuel pressure gauge fittings (which you can blank off). Here she is all fitted


I'm going to have the manifold painted in crinkle black eventually :)

Whilst I was in the area I removed the Idle Air Assist. This unscrews and is replaced with a 3/8 NPT blanking plug. You can then cap off the vacuum feeds to it with some vacuum caps

Here are the bits you need (few quid off ebay)


The car runs a lot better now from cold and the bay is a lot less cluttered :)


I really need to get rid of those awful oil cooler lines
 

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On the cosmetics front I painted up my old red centre caps, added the Honda logos and lacquered the lot. The little dots are just rain drops :)


My numberplate surrounds arrived, this will allow me to remove my plate easily on track days... and add a GB stickered plate for Nurburgring trips


Here's the new plates I have




Just waiting on the DVLA paperwork to come back so I can fit them!

And finally a sunstrip that I'm happy with!


The exterior of the car is almost complete, so I'll be doing a mini photoshoot soon! Then focusing on the engine bay cosmetics and some functional mods.

I've also booked on at Cadwell Park for the spring, and booked a Nurburgring trip shortly after!!

Photoshoot













 

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Time for a battery relocation. After much research the Odyssey 680 came up trumps. Lightweight, compact, powerful and reliable. Along with an alloy cage to suit




The plan is to run a fused cable from the engine bay to behind the passenger seat, P-clipping it in place as I go. This will remove 15kg of weight from the nose of the car. Ideal :)

First I got the front seats out. The previous owner had just left the full rear carpet folded over on itself from where it originally went under the rear bench!

Here it is chopped back, and with the battery mounted in the tray. I opted to leave the sound deadening in place because of how loud the car already is. My main complaint with that tray is the feet are tiny, leaving little room to drill holes for a decent sized bolt. I've used four M6 bolts here, with washers top and bottom to help spread any impact loads. I suspect it'll hold fine in any small or medium sized impact.


Passenger seat re-fitted. Loads of room.


I'll earth it to two points, one being a roll cage mounting post M8 bolt. Then think about routing the main power wire to the engine bay via a fuse and an isolator.

I've also been trial fitting my Tegiwa M induction kit. For those of you not familiar with them, they are a large carbon fibre airbox that has a scoop you feed up through the scuttle to catch air from the top of the bonnet. You have to cut and trim the scuttle panel back to suit. This will hopefully give a few horsepower gain (+12bhp on a standard engine) and a better sound. I had one before and absolutely loved it. Fitting is quite involved but it'll be worth it.



Here's the finished scuttle! The mesh is nice and strong and the filler over it is solid. However I got bored of trying to get a flawless finish so just moved onto painting it. Here it is


And with the painted wiper arms. They were so faded before


And re-fitted. Much better!


The Tegiwa-M is now a nice snug fit. I need to make some kind of bracket for it, because I'm not happy with the one that comes from Tegiwa, it's too bulky and heavy.


The last step is to add the carbon scoop to the top of the scuttle, to deflect air into the whole thing. Might add a cheeky sticker too.
 

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I've taken some time out over the past couple of weeks to do some garage maintenance! This has consisted of re-stocking things like drill bits, fastenings, consumables etc

Also taken the time to re-finish the top of my workbench. I rescued this a couple of years ago and it was in such a state, the top surface was like an old railway sleeper! Solid, but uneven and caked in years worth of shit! So I've screwed a fresh sheet of ply to the top and painted it.


And added some edge trim aluminium and re-fitted the beast of a vice with M12 bolts and spreader plates.


Here you can also see the two of the three oddments drawers I have, which are size organised into nuts, washers, bolts, fuses etc. I've also been tidying the house attic and the garage attic to be much more organised.

It's getting there slowly! I've also put racking up for low value parts (high value stuff kept indoors), additional lighting etc. Next trick is to house my compressor under the workbench and get the upstairs lighting working again!

Anyhoo, the V5 for the Honda came back to me. I can now legally R8PE U




I'm also mid way through the re-wire of the starter, alternator, fuse box etc :)

After ordering some new -AN fittings I managed to get the oil cooler pipes routed better (through the gearbox mount and over the gearbox, instead of over the cam cover.

Here they are. They aren't too close to the manifold (picture is deceptive)


And through the mount


The sump is off too. It's pretty easy, although you need to drop the subframe to remove the pan itself.


Once off I degreased it with petrol and rags.

The plan is now to TIG weld in the baffle kit, like so...


Sump is all baffled now


Primed


Painted


And refitted. Subframe is back on too with one new bolt (original had rounded)

I've finished plumbing in the oil cooler, so filled up with some fresh oil and added the gauge senders


Here's the two gauge sender wires (black = pressure and red = temperature) alongside the meaty new battery cable for the relocated battery. All just being fed through the bulkhead grommet.


You need 3 metres to do a battery relocation.

Here you can see I've got a catch tank in and fitted too


It's got some wire wool inside to help condense the oil vapour


I've started the car, it starts fine so the battery wiring is good. I'll see next if I can drop down from a 200a fuse to a 170a fuse.

There's a couple of oil leaks which are the next issue to tackle - then it's tidying the wiring and tracing a couple of oil leaks on the new pipework!

IT'S ALIVE!!!





After a brief problem with an erratic idle (cured by taking it for a spin) it's ALIVE!!!

- No leaks
- Engine pulls cleanly and strong
- Epic sound from carbon airbox!

Niggles
- People giving me abuse over the reg plate!!
- 1x headlight not working
- Bonnet release not working

IM SO HAPPY!!!

Roll on Cadwell Park and Nurburgring!
 

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Took her out again today for a bit of a run. Went over to Derby to see a mate and stopped off at the scrapyard on the way, out of curiosity.

Onto the weighbridge (exhaust scraping all the way)


1140kg with a brimmed fuel tank, so 1091kg without fuel.


I reckon I can easily save another 20kg in sound deadening, rear wiper motor, side impact bars and central locking gubbins.

If I do keep it long term I'm looking at Pesch motorsport fibreglass doors and tailgate with perspex windows for a further 40-50kg saving there.

Put another sunstrip on it at my mate's. Just need to decide on what logo or lettering to have on it.


Next up was "pre-track testing". Goals were to evaluate the brakes, tyres and identify any niggles

I started the test just a few miles outside of Manchester. Funny how quickly you go from a built up city like Stockport to this...



And on to Curbar edge in the Peak district



Roads were nice and empty :)


I've got some good feedback from the car and some ideas of what to work on before Cadwell and the Ring :)

No major issues to report.

Cheers guys :) Feeling the love for this one!

Well today I made a spontaneous decision to take it to the Saturday night special at Santa Pod. The track was open till 8pm so I managed to get 5 runs in in 4 hours.

Some shots from trackside






Here's an onboard video of my best run. Whilst the time isn't amazing (14.03 @ 104mph) some things really do stand out

1) I start the run in 2nd gear (because close ratio box)
2) I finish the run almost at the limiter in 5th (because close ratio box)
3) It sounds like a bike going through the gears :D

Enjoy
 

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I've also finished the wiring for the gauges


They all work, however I'm not convinced the pressure gauge sender are in the best location (oil cooler pipework) as the pressure gauge flickers when warm. Interestingly my oil sat at under 60 degrees on the motorway and barely touched 70 in traffic. I'm tempted to cover the oil cooler until we get warmer weather.

I also finished mounting my GoPro on the cage. I used a clamp off eBay, plus a little gubbin that lets you rotate 360 degrees via a series of notches


The view isn't ideal to be honest, as the visibility out of the front screen is minimal.


That brings us up to date, March 2016.

I'm off to Cadwell Park to try and break my lap record next month, then the 'Ring in May for a proper test of the car.

My goal is to set a Sub-8 time at the 'Ring in 2017


Thanks for reading, all questions and constructive comments welcome
 

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Not been up to much lately, just a bit of tinkering

Pulled a couple of heatshields off from under the car. One less thing to rattle and shimmer!


And put together a "trackday emergency repairs" box. Various nuts, bolts, washers, fasteners. Plus zip ties, ptfe, gaffa tape, liquid gasket, chemical metal, relays, wire, fuses, hose joiners etc. This will come alongside a full toolkit and spares box.


And finally just a finishing touch for the new sunstrip!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hi Partyvan, I just fell in love with that racing piece :D...looking great, especially with that beauty of landscape. But...

I'm a Brit, so please bear with me on the language barrier!
...what are you doing here :wink:? If you feel there is a language barrier here, no one would understand my poor's guy English :D.

...is from late 2015 when I bought the car...My solution has been to therefore search for one ready modified.
No bad solution :D. Any plans for the engine?

...track albeit...tidying...
Nice words to know :D.

...JDM cams...Hondata K100 ecu...RBC inlet with spacer...AEM induction kit (wanting a Tegiwa carbon scoop one)...DC sports exhaust manifold...
This is a solid engine setup! Where does that 86x86 engine find it's peak power in terms of engine speed? Or better, would you mind to share the dyno graph?

Solid fabrications full stainless 3" system (maximum motorway speed is 62mph before tinnitus)
LOL :D...so you drive that piece only with ear plugs?

...5.84 final drive
Even for Nurburgring? Just about 226 km/[email protected] krpm...you must love driving that piece at limit otherwise you get snuffed by those C20XE modified Opel Corsa's at the track :D

Very nice thread, man! Keep it running :D
 

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I'll answer you in one second Mr Elise!

Today's update - I've picked up an eBay bargain! Set of lightweight Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 alloys. Already in white!


8.2kg each as opposed to the OEM wheels which are ~12kg. Do you guys even use kilos? Or are you still into your pounds and ounces?

This nice saving in unsprung weight should have a very positive effect on the car. Also met up with a couple of the local Honda guys, a very clean EP3 and a turbo'd DC5. Much fun was had!
 

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Mr Elise thankyou for your kind words!

I think there is a language barrier as most of the guys seem to be from the U.S. so may get confused with my talk of tyres, bonnets, windscreens, petrol and boots!

I've improved the engine by swapping the Injen intake for the Gruppe M, and also deleting the idle air assist! I'm contemplating some more mapping to add a higher rev limit. This would mean an S2000 oil pump and new timing chain... but if I can gain 500rpm it'll be worth it!

The power band is so much more flexible than a standard EP3, I think because of the vtec delete and the mapping - power is almost linear! That makes it a lot more flexible, but loses a bit of the magic, not having that kick. Dyno graph below...


The top speed is 145mph which is more than I need for Nurburgring Touristenfahrten. For the full track days where you run the length of Dottinger Hohe yes I will be on the rev limiter for 2 miles! haha. And yes, ear plugs for long road journeys :new_slayer:
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Now I understand why Partyvan

I think there is a language barrier as most of the guys seem to be from the U.S. so may get confused with my talk of tyres, bonnets, windscreens, petrol and boots!
Maybe. For me as a non-native speaker those are just words I know or I have to check in my Dictionary. The more I learn, the better for me :D.

I'm contemplating some more mapping to add a higher rev limit. This would mean an S2000 oil pump and new timing chain... but if I can gain 500rpm it'll be worth it!
If you swap your K100 emulator for a KPro one you would be able to do it yourself, but even of more value is data logging through racing events...it's the best way to understand, when something did get wrong with the engine, to do the right next steps.

If you run 0.5 krpm more, I mean going to redline at 9.0 krpm, please ensure you engine running forged pistons. The casted OEM's don't like the heat rate of WOT of that engine speed range, as their piston to wall clearance is designed for proper part load use, not for race use. Increasing just by 500 rpm is a different world for them (rod bolts forces are getting risky!), so please ensure having forged pieces or adapted casted pieces with WOT able P2W clearance. Just for keeping things safe.

...of the vtec delete and the mapping - power is almost linear! That makes it a lot more flexible, but loses a bit of the magic, not having that kick.
You running JDM VTEC killer cams? Please let me know the specification data of those cams. BTW, that skipping torque, some tuners emphazise for customer fun, is for some track stituations really anoying (wet track, slow corners)...with well designed pair of race cams and a well choosen VTEC point and VTC crossover you won't feel any torque skip, just hear the different noise. Despite that sometimes it's fun :D, compensating the lack of torque compared to a narrower engine speed band FI engine :D.

...For the full track days where you run the length of Dottinger Hohe yes I will be on the rev limiter for 2 miles!
Yes you will :D. Did you know that the valvetrain really get harmed when the engine is operated there for longer time? A good race tune reduces ignition timing by some few degree, advance or retard VTC (depending on your V2P and V2V clearances) shortly before redline controller cut's fuel, so that the racer never can drive their for longer time...just think on those working cycles, when fuel was cut, air carries the rest of the fuel at runner wall into the chamber (at WOT lambda's of around 0.88-0.92 this isn't less) and cause every controller cycle lean combustion. Add now small P2W clearance of e.g. the OEM pieces...this is a harmful operating point for your engine.

Let me know about your bottom end setup, we can discuss it whether it is risky or not.

Markus
 

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Nice project man!

How many laps of the ring have you done already?
Sub 8min in a fwd hot hatch on road legal tyres ain't easy ?

Good luck with your goal
 

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Nice car man :up:

I had an 03 usdm ep3. loved the car. Had a built k20a2 turbo in there. not one bad thing to say about the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nice project man!

How many laps of the ring have you done already?
Sub 8min in a fwd hot hatch on road legal tyres ain't easy ?

Good luck with your goal
I've done around 50 laps of the 'Ring over 4 trips. One of which was in a lightly tuned EP3 I was in the mid 8's. This beast is lighter, stiffer, grippier and has more power. I'm also going to switch from TF to an actual trackday, to reduce traffic and give me a flying start to the lap! It's tough I know!

If you swap your K100 emulator for a KPro one you would be able to do it yourself, but even of more value is data logging through racing events...it's the best way to understand, when something did get wrong with the engine, to do the right next steps.

If you run 0.5 krpm more, I mean going to redline at 9.0 krpm, please ensure you engine running forged pistons. The casted OEM's don't like the heat rate of WOT of that engine speed range, as their piston to wall clearance is designed for proper part load use, not for race use. Increasing just by 500 rpm is a different world for them (rod bolts forces are getting risky!), so please ensure having forged pieces or adapted casted pieces with WOT able P2W clearance. Just for keeping things safe.

You running JDM VTEC killer cams? Please let me know the specification data of those cams. BTW, that skipping torque, some tuners emphazise for customer fun, is for some track stituations really anoying (wet track, slow corners)...with well designed pair of race cams and a well choosen VTEC point and VTC crossover you won't feel any torque skip, just hear the different noise. Despite that sometimes it's fun :D, compensating the lack of torque compared to a narrower engine speed band FI engine :D.

Yes you will :D. Did you know that the valvetrain really get harmed when the engine is operated there for longer time? A good race tune reduces ignition timing by some few degree, advance or retard VTC (depending on your V2P and V2V clearances) shortly before redline controller cut's fuel, so that the racer never can drive their for longer time...just think on those working cycles, when fuel was cut, air carries the rest of the fuel at runner wall into the chamber (at WOT lambda's of around 0.88-0.92 this isn't less) and cause every controller cycle lean combustion. Add now small P2W clearance of e.g. the OEM pieces...this is a harmful operating point for your engine.

Let me know about your bottom end setup, we can discuss it whether it is risky or not.

Markus
Hi Markus!

I don't know the spec of the cams as that was done by the previous owner. There is also rumours the car has uprated pistons, something I should check with a compression test when the plugs are next changed. I wish I knew more, but really I bought the car for other reasons than the engine (the brakes, the cage, the 5.84 FD). My approach to reliability is to change oil every 5k with a quality oil and filter. And never to rev it until oil temp is up (not water temp!).

It already does 9k limiter and is a very flexible engine. I'm happy with it, but also greedy for a little more!

Nice car man :up:

I had an 03 usdm ep3. loved the car. Had a built k20a2 turbo in there. not one bad thing to say about the car.
Nice, is the USDM the same as the European EP3? We don't get much of the JDM stuff unless it's a 30th anniversary. Even then it's just the carpets and steering wheel!

Here's my old 30th :)






 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I don't know the spec of the cams as that was done by the previous owner.
Seems to be a mystical engine :D

There is also rumours the car has uprated pistons...
...mystical engine confirmed :D.

My approach to reliability is to change oil every 5k with a quality oil and filter. And never to rev it until oil temp is up (not water temp!). It already does 9k limiter...
Please please yourself and open that mysteria. It is not very likely having a 270 [email protected] octane fuel engine with stock pistons, but clarify it. Nine thousend rotations per minute in redline control operation aren't a good idea for the stock OEM pistons. Did you ever see a rod shotted through a crank case, a cooler, a front bumper and still speed enough to fly further 20 m? I guess you want be the one, who directly observe this?! 9.5 krpm is extremly harmful in case of OEM pistons, not to mention, stock rod bolts aren't sufficient enough to stand that. You need uprated pistons and rod bolts for that engine speed range, among other parts which have to be cross checked if capable to be a screamer!

Please prove it...you risk yourself and other guys on the track! Safety always comes first and a lack of knowledge doesn't excuse it...to open the mysteria a endoscopic camera could be used. Or measure the TDC dome to valve cover top height and compare it with a stock set up and same valve cover. A compression test isn't reliable for that, as too much other screws could influence the pressure result.

We are here to support you with such topics...just come up with the engine setup. It is not that much work to list it and you will learn nice things about your engine and possible options.

Markus
 

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That's good advice Markus. But a couple of holes in your argument... firstly 93 octane fuel. What is that? For lawnmowers? :devil: Here in the UK 95 octane is the cheapest fuel. Nearly every station sells 97 octane, I buy 98 or 99 which is what the car is mapped on. Secondly I won't do over 9k without modification first, don't worry :) I know of many K20 engines that do this occasionally with no problem. I'm talking maybe once or twice per lap, on one or two trackdays a year. On the street I keep revs super low. Always. It's called "mechanical sympathy" and I have a lot of it. I'm actually a factory trained engineer from Toyota so I understand the importance of what we discuss. Don't worry man ;) The main issue with revs is oil pump cavitation, but i will go S2000 pump before I go higher.
 

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UK fuel isn't measured in the same way as the USA, our 98Ron is similar to their 93...we have crap fuel here in reality.

You'll need some stiffer valve springs if your wanting to rev that high along with your oil pump upgrade.

8min is a good target, anything under 8 is pretty darn serious. I think your tyres will be the weak link if you stay with the federals.
I kinda have the same target at the ring, so long as reliability is there I should be able to go under 8 this year.
 
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