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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a wire worx conversion harness, pnd a08 ecu with kprov4. I have been tracing stuff to see what is going on here because I did not wire the swap. I found a couple error codes for sensors which I have fixed and also the p0563. I have found the fuel pump directly wired to the battery. I'm a lost here. After tracing a bunch of stuff for the sensors I don't know why the fuel pump would be wired like this. Here are some pics of things I can't id and any help for trouble shooting this would be much appreciated.
 

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2004 CM7 Accord - K24A4 - 5 Speed Manual
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the first 2 pics are horrendous, just to be honest. I'm not really sure whats going on in the third pic

the way to correct the 1st pic is to get a fuse tap, which you can get at autozone or any other parts store. the second pic needs quite a bit of work though, what exactly is it powering?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Horrendous in that it's a rats nest of bs or Horrendous in that bad pic? If it's rats neat I totally agree. I'm in process of repairing all of this and running correctly. It's... hard to id stuff because it is very well chopped up. First pic I traced the wires out of the fuse box and those are wired to radiator fan.

Second pic is main relay? And that blue wire is a ground that is feeding to chassis by radio.

Third is me fumbling around the thermostat. There is a green plug and then a 3mm plug in there. Idk know what the 3mm is or where it goes.

Right now the car will run so there's that. I also found a relay on the fuel pump for larger gauge wires it looks like. For whatever reason. I haven't pulled the pump to determine if it's after market.

Almost all of the connections Re just bad so the ones I trace oit I repair and correct.

I found an ecu plug completely cut, I don't know which one it is because the kpro has everything it needs. This car used to be an auto so I believe it's that I haven't looked at the schematic for them that I gave up for a bit.
 

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2004 CM7 Accord - K24A4 - 5 Speed Manual
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lol, its horrendous as in a rats nest. the fuel pump relay is a mod that a lot of people with aftermarket pumps do, as it supposedly ensures that the pump is getting a proper flow of power at all times. is the relay hooked up or just sitting there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Figures. The guy told me he planned on running e85, I don't see any other evidence of that. The injectors definitely aren't factory.

Any idea what this plug that's cut could be? The ecu isnt missing any sensors
Automotive tire Road surface Asphalt Wood Tints and shades
 

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1st pic, like Saucer said. He is tapping into the fuse to get power with ignition on, and no power when ignition is off. That is a sketchy way, but commonly seen. Buy a 4 pin spst relay and look up a tutorial on the fuel pump relay upgrade.
2nd pic, is the main relay ground which I works but it's ghetto. Usually that wire would go to the ECU and from there when the ignition is turned on, the ECU tells the main relay to turn on. Check out my recent post on troubleshooting this wire.
3rd pic looks like a fan switch or coolant temp sensor. If you can find where those wires end up you can tell what it was intended to do.
If you have a hard time following diagrams or soldering/making secure connections then I suggest hiring someone to fix these things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would that contribute to that voltage cel? I repaired that wire on the main relay but code is still there. The wires jumped on the driver's side fuse box are for radiator fan. I have since removed that and wired it to the main harness from the oem switch fan switch. There is a relay on the fuel pump now. I haven't made it back that far yet. I have been taking a break.. I found the input shaft bearing is bad and I'm in the process of repairing that.

I know that I don't need the cut plug by the ecu but I'm hesitant to just remove all the wires mostly because it's a lot. I'm also trying to figure out how to wire up the reverse lockout. I read that hondata was making a something for it, or I can wire a relay into it and run off of one of the ecu pins. There is information on where to wire in for reverse lights to work.. but I don't have a plug on that harness. I believe the car has a generic k series harness, along with a hybrid racing conversion harness. The auto to manual swap is throwing me a bit.
 

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Would that contribute to that voltage cel? I repaired that wire on the main relay but code is still there. The wires jumped on the driver's side fuse box are for radiator fan. I have since removed that and wired it to the main harness from the oem switch fan switch. There is a relay on the fuel pump now. I haven't made it back that far yet. I have been taking a break.. I found the input shaft bearing is bad and I'm in the process of repairing that.

I know that I don't need the cut plug by the ecu but I'm hesitant to just remove all the wires mostly because it's a lot. I'm also trying to figure out how to wire up the reverse lockout. I read that hondata was making a something for it, or I can wire a relay into it and run off of one of the ecu pins. There is information on where to wire in for reverse lights to work.. but I don't have a plug on that harness. I believe the car has a generic k series harness, along with a hybrid racing conversion harness. The auto to manual swap is throwing me a bit.
Not too sure about your CEL, I'm not familiar with high voltage CEL's. Not sure what those cut wires are from or what to do with them.

Just read you have an auto to manual. Two wires (yellow/green I believe) from that auto connector by the shifter I think you need to hookup directly to the switch on the transmission. For the reverse lockout: From a hondata admin, "You just need to move the wire. No relay is needed.". Probably since this solenoid doesn't activate enough or draw enough current to threaten the ECU.. you could add a relay though just to be extra safe.
set the pin (I chose B6 I believe for FANC) under nitrous outputs>reverse lockout>choose your pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok thanks for the help. I don't have car close to me going back out there next week sometime. It is a 2000 civic ex. I have the engine running now just the voltage code. Alternator tests good from manual. I dont know what alternator is compatible to see if it just needs a newer one or not.. The serpentine belt has been giving me a lot of problems. It has an ebay manual tensioner on it with alternator relocating bracket and it is tearing belts up. It is not 100% in line. I don't know if I should switch it out for an auto tensioner system or not. When I talked to hybrid about it the crank pulley didn't match any of their sizes.
 
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