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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, this is my first K-Swap and I just wanted to make sure I'm on the right road. Here's is what I thought was the best for me. I'm using the OEM Fuel Rail, OEM Fuel Filter and OEM hose pass the firewall.

Note: The Fuel Filter will be in the engine bay bolted on it's OEM location


Here's the price list from SummitRacing.com:

AEI-13109 Fuel Pressure Regulator, 30-70 psi, Clear and Red Anodized, Universal, Each
$135.95

AEI-15633 Gauge, Fuel Pressure, 0-100 psi, 1 1/2 in., Analog, Mechanical, White Face, Each
$29.95

EAR-807691ERL Fitting, Carburetor Inlet, 12mm x 1.25 Banjo to -6 AN, Swivel Seal, Red/Blue, Each
$20.69

RUS-632090 Hose, ProFlex, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 20 ft. Length, Each
$83.95

RUS-639203 Adapter Fitting
$16.39 x5 $81.95

RUS-640863 EFI Fitting, Push-On, Straight, -6 AN to 5/16 in. OEM Hard Line, Black, Each
$17.39 x2 $34.78

SUM-220166B Fitting, Straight, Male -6 AN to Straight Cut Male -6 AN O-Ring, Aluminum, Black Anodized, Each
$7.88 x3 $23.64

Total amount charged at this time: $422.86

Questions:

1- Is there anything you would change in the set-up?

2- Is the price listed here seem correct? Like I said it's my first swap so I don't know the price of fuel set-up.

3- Any feedback? Opinions?

Thanks a lot for your time!
 

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If you like the red and blue SS lines, then the system looks pretty good.

Expensive though, there are high quality alternatives for much less.

Does the $422.XX include the Aeromotive FPR? Doesn't look like it to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks

Mike: Yes, the price include the FPR. Is it still pricey?

If you have something that work (Bolt-on) with the OEM Fuel Rail and Fuel Filter for less, you have a buyer right here.

The Set-Up above and the price list is supposed to be bolt-On with what I'll use. If you see any mistake feel free to tell.

Thanks again
 

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Thanks lilrider. :up:

OK, the problems I see are:

RUS-640863 EFI Fitting, Push-On, Straight, -6 AN to 5/16 in. OEM Hard Line, Black, Each
$17.39 x2 $34.78


Note: the fuel feed is 5/16" and the return is 1/4", so I think one of those fittings is the wrong size... Also I think those fittings are designed to push on when there is an oem barb to lock on to. To convert hardlines to AN, you should flare the line and use a tube nuts with tube sleeves. Or you can simply clamp the line to the hardlines like in the above system I did for a customer. :up:

RUS-632090 Hose, ProFlex, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 20 ft. Length, Each
$83.95


You really should be able to build a system with 10 feet of hose or less...
 

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Thanks lilrider. :up:

OK, the problems I see are:

RUS-640863 EFI Fitting, Push-On, Straight, -6 AN to 5/16 in. OEM Hard Line, Black, Each
$17.39 x2 $34.78


Note: the fuel feed is 5/16" and the return is 1/4", so I think one of those fittings is the wrong size... Also I think those fittings are designed to push on when there is an oem barb to lock on to. To convert hardlines to AN, you should flare the line and use a tube nuts with tube sleeves.
No need to do that with the EFI fitting. This fitting eliminates the need to flare the line and use tube nuts with sleeves.



I know several people who use this setup.

But you are right the second one for the return isn't needed and wont work.

To the OP i would change it a little.

the line you have going to the return, should be going to the fuel rail.

The return is a low pressure line. Get a -6 striaght with O-ring to -4 AN, and then get a -4 AN push on straight AN fitting. Then purchase 2 feet of rubber fuel line and run that to the return hard line with a hose clamp.

The first time i built AN lines i used cheap fittings, summit brand, they leaked and gave me hell. After that i only use XRP, Earls, and then will venture to another brand if they make something XRP or earls does not make.

Also these

RUS-639203 Adapter Fitting
$16.39 x5 $81.95


Not sure why you would need them. They are for aluminum hard lines not SS braided lines.

this is the part number you should be using
Earl's Performance 800106ERL

other then that everything looks good.

FYI i don't like using straight fittings. I used

1 90 degree low profile (for the fuel rail) 1 45 degree (for the fuel filter to FPR) and 1 90 degree (for the FPR to fuel rail)
 

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h4racer - Do the Russell EFI fittings push on and hold on to hardlines that have been cut? Or do they only work on hardlines that have the factory bump lock on them? Like the bump found on the oem k-series rail...
 

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should only work on the line with the factory bump lock on them and the factory white clip. the fitting will fit over cut hardline but there would be nothing keeping it from blowing off.
thanks a lot for posting the part # for that fitting. just saved me a lot of headache goin from the s2k tank to my civic hardlines.
so is that for the feed or return side. As I will need both.
 

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h4racer - Do the Russell EFI fittings push on and hold on to hardlines that have been cut? Or do they only work on hardlines that have the factory bump lock on them? Like the bump found on the oem k-series rail...
Only on non-cut rails.

It is an EFI fitting, and the bump on the fuel rail is how the EFI works. It comes with everything you need, as long as your hard line wasn't cut.

EFI is pretty much universal Ford, chevy, ect ect all have them on the fuel lines.


Slo-

No one makes a return fitting one. As Mike pointed out earlier the return is 1/4inch, and the only EFI to AN is 5/16 (like on the fuel rail).

Really putting SS line, and AN fittings on a return line is wasting money. It is low pressure, so there isn't any need to run the $$ fittings for low pressure stuff.
 

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yes, nice isn't it. Also makes braded lines from the tank to oem hardlines easier also.

For high hp civic ek's a cheaper option to running braided line to the tank is to use the evap hardline as the feed line. I mean it goes from the tank to the engine bay right next to the oem feed line. Then use the oem feed line as the return line. Saves some money on a budget racecar or high hp stret car. of course an tube sleeves and tube nuts have to be used and flaring the lines.
just my .02c
 
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