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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an a4 block and it obviously doesn't have oil squirters. Would it be beneficial to have them added? I've been reading mixed reviews.

The casting is there for them. no holes. I don't know whats behind it. I'm assuming the holes are there and it just needs to be drilled and tapped.
 

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The le mans motors I have read up on all use them.
People say that if you use forged pistons you don't need them. I can see that logic. I would be more concerned with the quality of the piston though, not so much the material but the metal composition (hot spots, etc).
What piston/ring are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The le mans motors I have read up on all use them.
People say that if you use forged pistons you don't need them. I can see that logic. I would be more concerned with the quality of the piston though, not so much the material but the metal composition (hot spots, etc).
What piston/ring are you using?
I've read all of that as well.

I was looking at wiseco's for pistons. Unless you have another suggestion.
 

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If it were me I would put them in. I've run blocks with them and without them. I had problems on the block without them. I can't directly relate my problems to the oil squirters as there were many other differences as well, but I can't help but wonder if the squirters would have helped alleviate the issues.

The way I see it the only real downside is the cost of putting them in. I don't know how hard/expensive that might be but I can't imagine it would be too bad where the possible upside is increased longevity of your engine.

Some people say that they cost you oil pressure but I have tons of oil pressure using a stock K20A2 oil pump on a TSX block. 30 psi at idle with the oil at 180.
 

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The only time that you will see a lower oil pressure is if there is a failure of the oil jet's internal check spring at low rpm's. I have seen the oil jets fail and remain open at idle bleeding almost all the oil pressure from reaching the main and rod bearings.

IIRC the oil jet spring is rated at approx 24psi cutoff. If I was building a DD then I would retain them even with forged pistons, I would plug them on a race only build.

Another point is that if the oil jets do fail and bleed off idle oil pressure it will also damage the valvetrain especially if you have big cams or stronger than normal valvesprings.
 

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i have wondered the same thing about these. I agree, if you are spending the time and money on the build, you may as well do the squirters. they'll only add to the engine life. let us know how it goes and what it cost. I always thought you had to go with a k24a2 block to get the squirters.
 

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I would like to learn more on this.
 

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I think, key term:THINK, there is a thread from Ron on one of the DEV motors on how to install oil squirters in a block without them and how to modify the squirters to increase oil pressure.

Sorry I couldnt get you a block CJ, a decent one atleast, but im glad to read you got one:up:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think, key term:THINK, there is a thread from Ron on one of the DEV motors on how to install oil squirters in a block without them and how to modify the squirters to increase oil pressure.

Sorry I couldnt get you a block CJ, a decent one atleast, but im glad to read you got one:up:
I'll have to search. I'm going to try, I will have to pull a lot of resources to do this and I don't believe it will be a simple task.

No problem colin, actually found this one down the street from work, so it worked out for me. :up:
 

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I have two K24a4 blocks myself and i'm in the process of building one and I'm going to try to install the squirters. I plan to take the bare block to a machine shop and have them mill off the tops of the mounting bosses to create a good flat spot for the squirters to seal to. They use a fairly standard banjo bolt style fitting but the seal needs to be tight to avoid loosing oil pressure. The thread is an 8mm x .75mm and you can find that tap at Victor Machine on-line for about $4 although they have a $15 minimum order. I just ordered a few carbide burrs to get to that ammount. Cant have too many carbide burrs LOL:rolleyes:

As far as the squirters lowering the oil pressure, I really don't think that will be a problem. The banjo bolts that hold them to the block have an internal chack valve that prevents oil flow to the squirters below a given pressure. I want this engine to last and I won't be reving it to hell and gone but I want to be sure that oil is getting everywhere it needs to go. There must be a good reason that Honda puts the squirters on ALL of their high performance engines.

I will also be doing the Hytech oil line modification to the #5 cam tower to ensure adequate oil supply to the valvetrain and I will be replacing the chain tensioner with the Hybrid racing one. Like I said, I want this engine to last FOREVER :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have two K24a4 blocks myself and i'm in the process of building one and I'm going to try to install the squirters. I plan to take the bare block to a machine shop and have them mill off the tops of the mounting bosses to create a good flat spot for the squirters to seal to. They use a fairly standard banjo bolt style fitting but the seal needs to be tight to avoid loosing oil pressure. The thread is an 8mm x .75mm and you can find that tap at Victor Machine on-line for about $4 although they have a $15 minimum order. I just ordered a few carbide burrs to get to that ammount. Cant have too many carbide burrs LOL:rolleyes:

As far as the squirters lowering the oil pressure, I really don't think that will be a problem. The banjo bolts that hold them to the block have an internal chack valve that prevents oil flow to the squirters below a given pressure. I want this engine to last and I won't be reving it to hell and gone but I want to be sure that oil is getting everywhere it needs to go. There must be a good reason that Honda puts the squirters on ALL of their high performance engines.

I will also be doing the Hytech oil line modification to the #5 cam tower to ensure adequate oil supply to the valvetrain and I will be replacing the chain tensioner with the Hybrid racing one. Like I said, I want this engine to last FOREVER :p
What is the hytech oil line mod consist of?
 

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My understanding is that John (the Hytech guru of all things Honda) machines a hole in the side of the #5 cam tower that feeds oil directly to the cam journals. A #3 braided AN line is then plumbed into that from the oil pressure sender. This gives an additional oil feed to the valvetrain which can be necessary when using bigger cams or stiffer valve springs. Honda Tuning had an article on it a while back. I'll try to find it on Google and post a link.

Also, if you like road racing / HPDE or even aggressive autoX you really need to have a baffled oil pan. I have experienced the "red light of death" a few times at VIR and even some times while taking sharp right hand freeway on ramps. I think that is what lead to the untimely demise of my last K20:mad:
 

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you dont need them with forged pistons. Ive never used them on built k motor. i plug them on every build.
 

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Do they have a site where you can send your stuff to get modified?
 
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