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Yes, it's correct.

But we must make a hole, put a litle hose in stainless(end cut in 45°), and fix the hole, and.....

Use a soft hose resist to heat ?
 

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same as the Spoon posted above, as far as PCV/CC and VC/CC but with a breather on the CC. The filter allows fresh air to be sucked in by VC. Personally, i think the plumbing on the PCV/CC hose looks like a P-Trap, or oil slugde will become trapped easily blocking hose.

The benifit to running this set up is eliminating blow-by gases, condensation vapors, and crankcase fumes entering the combustion chambers. The true term for blow-by is a leakage or loss of pressure, often used with reference to leakage of compression past the piston ring between piston and cylinder. Taken by the design of chassis and emissions control choice, this is a race car and is expected to perform longer and harder than a normally driven engine. Exhaust temps, intake temps, valves, combustion chamber temps will be at their pushed to their limit. Since the competition is thick, he will be using race gas (burns slower) with an advanced tune to prevent detonation - sound that indicates a too rapid burning or explosion of A/F mixture in engine cylinders. Back to the CC plumbing and reasoning:

If a pyrometer reads 1200 degF, just imagine the temp effect blow-by has on the crankcase. Mixed along with the other pollutents of the crankcase sucking right into the IM and mixing with race gas and intake track. It will create on off balance of A/F and detonation can occur. Just doesn't make sense to run Helm's rule of thumb on a race engine that is operating at its full potiential for hours on end. Imagine how much blow-by a race engine has along with crankcase pressure.

I noticed the flexability of the engine set up, I like it. Just some of the plumbing needs to be shortened and graded to CC, seeing the CC doesn't draw and vaccum.
 

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02sik24a2 said:
same as the Spoon posted above, as far as PCV/CC and VC/CC but with a breather on the CC. The filter allows fresh air to be sucked in by VC. Personally, i think the plumbing on the PCV/CC hose looks like a P-Trap, or oil slugde will become trapped easily blocking hose.

The benifit to running this set up is eliminating blow-by gases, condensation vapors, and crankcase fumes entering the combustion chambers. The true term for blow-by is a leakage or loss of pressure, often used with reference to leakage of compression past the piston ring between piston and cylinder. Taken by the design of chassis and emissions control choice, this is a race car and is expected to perform longer and harder than a normally driven engine. Exhaust temps, intake temps, valves, combustion chamber temps will be at their pushed to their limit. Since the competition is thick, he will be using race gas (burns slower) with an advanced tune to prevent detonation - sound that indicates a too rapid burning or explosion of A/F mixture in engine cylinders. Back to the CC plumbing and reasoning:

If a pyrometer reads 1200 degF, just imagine the temp effect blow-by has on the crankcase. Mixed along with the other pollutents of the crankcase sucking right into the IM and mixing with race gas and intake track. It will create on off balance of A/F and detonation can occur. Just doesn't make sense to run Helm's rule of thumb on a race engine that is operating at its full potiential for hours on end. Imagine how much blow-by a race engine has along with crankcase pressure.

I noticed the flexability of the engine set up, I like it. Just some of the plumbing needs to be shortened and graded to CC, seeing the CC doesn't draw and vaccum.
I've tried to understand and there are so many different ways at going at it. Does there have to be vacuum (like from the IM) to the crankcase? How in the world should this be setup so that nothing goes back into the motor but you still get a clean crankcase charge etc?
 

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Exactly like you see on the RTR and Spoon Racecars. Remember these guys have engineers and 1000's of R&D hours going into these motors.

Even though the motors are rebuilt all the time do you really think they would do anything to hurt the performance of the engine?? If the race car is getting alot of blowby in an endurance race it will not perform well do to loss of compression as well as it'll be out of oil before the race finishes.

The way they set it up will prevent blowby(which all of us want) and will not let any of the oil and vapours get back into the intake manifold(again what all of us want) I don't see any losses here.

I've been running it this way for about 1 to 2 weeks now and everything is running like a champ.
 

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blow-by cannot be eliminated no matter the CC set up. race engines or oem engines.
"ITR"- i ran the same CC you are, I had no problems with it. I am using the IM to draw vaccum to see how it runs. Haven't desided wihich I like best
 

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02sik24a2 said:
blow-by cannot be eliminated no matter the CC set up. race engines or oem engines.
"ITR"- i ran the same CC you are, I had no problems with it. I am using the IM to draw vaccum to see how it runs. Haven't desided wihich I like best
I originally thought so to but reading so much on catch cans before I got one I had read that it can reduce blow-by from the piston rings. I didn't see how this worked either so I would tend to agree with you. I always thought it was just blow-by gases. Maybe it was the way they worded it, but they made is sound like it could help to prevent it. Thanks for correcting me :up:
 

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1999_ITR said:
I originally thought so to but reading so much on catch cans before I got one I had read that it can reduce blow-by from the piston rings. I didn't see how this worked either so I would tend to agree with you. I always thought it was just blow-by gases. Maybe it was the way they worded it, but they made is sound like it could help to prevent it. Thanks for correcting me :up:
brother in the K-series, i wasn't correcting you. Blow-by happens as exhaust gases escape past the piston rings into the crankcase. The catch can keeps the amount of blow-by mixed with oil, which creates "sludge"; to a minimum.

Yes, it is the way people use the word blow-by, that is missleading. It when sellers forget to mention condensation, oil vapors, and sludge to sell their product based on eliminating "blow-by", that throws things off.

Catch Cans are ideal for people who like to push their engines.
 

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blackdc5 said:
02sik24a2: Thanks for the massive info...though I don't completely understand lol.

So the PCV needs a source of vaccuum?
Yes, vaccum is needed for the PCV to operate as intended from Honda.

Read this whole thread from the beginning, and pay attention to "Kommon Sense"...he really takes it home
 

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02sik24a2 said:
Yes, vaccum is needed for the PCV to operate as intended from Honda.

Read this whole thread from the beginning, and pay attention to "Kommon Sense"...he really takes it home
If the check valve is removed do you still think vaccum is need?
 

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02sik24a2 said:
Yes, vaccum is needed for the PCV to operate as intended from Honda.

Read this whole thread from the beginning, and pay attention to "Kommon Sense"...he really takes it home
Yea I've read this whole thread and another one several times now lol.

At first people were saying the Spoon setup was wrong, and then someone said it needs a breather filter (since the Spoon setup was closed PCV to CC to VC).

I just couldn't tell if it's a Good or Bad setup from your post, just that it was designed for a "race engine."

But then since it gets rid of a good amount of blow by, that would make me think it's an efficient setup.

Anyway, mine is now setup PCV to CC to IM. Not really getting a lot of oil blow-by as not much has collected in the can, but at the very least the hose from CC to IM is clean.

I'm now worried about the other hoses running into the intake tract because when I took off the PRB on my car, I set it on the ground, flange facing down. When I checked on it later, there was fresh oil--not sludge--that had dripped down and had collected at the TB opening. This made me worry if there's any other potential hoses that are recirculating oil into the IM/intake.
 

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RTR = Holey bling batman :cool:

Question here is if RTR and spoon actually use the STOCK PCV valve. Maybe they use a modified one or just have a fitting there?

I'm pretty sure you don't want to run without the PCV valve there. The valve opens with Vaccum and positive crank case pressure. PCV valve is a one way valve and blocks air/PSI from getting into the Crank case. You wouldn't want to run the risk of pushing air into your CC no would you.. . Especially for those folks running BOOST.
 

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I'm running the stock PCV valve. My catchcan is set up like the Spoon one only difference is I have a hose dumping out of the catchcan.
 

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blackdc5 said:
Anyone try the Husky air filter like in the other DIY $20 oil catch threads? I added it to mine a while back.

Prior setup: PCV valve in OEM location --> closed CC --> IM.

First, I put the Husky air filter AFTER my current catch can to see if my original catch can is doing anything or not (whenever I opened the drain cock on the bottom, nothing came out). The filter on the Husky filter remained clean.

Second, relocated the Husky filter to PRE-CC. I noticed the hose that was coming from my catch can had some oil deposits in the hose, but nothing went into the Husky filter. Now with the Husky filter as the "first line of defense" in catching the unwanted oil vapor, it has indeed collected oil at the bottom of the bowl.

So, turns out my closed, unbaffled can WAS catching the oil (a good amount) though it wasn't leaking through the drain cock. Maybe it turned into sludge already?
mm probably unlikely, the oil that has been in my CC for a few months already is still very liquidy, just very dark
 

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Okay guys and gals. I think I just found the Best Catch Can EVER!!! Just stumbled accross this today not even looking for it so I thought I would share it here.
http://www.mckinneyraceworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=28

I already have a setup but damn, I may have to buy this one as well.
Functionally sound and Clean looking. Pimp is actually the word for it :cool:

The only Thing I see wrong with this is that over time, its going to get plugged up and the vaccum caused by the intake manifold might not be enough to over come the CLOG which in return wont operate the PVC valve.

The cure ? = replace the stock PVC in the block with a barb and put it on the SUCK side of the Catch Can.
 

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http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclintake.htm
Scroll down to the bottom - $50
Pick up some other exhaust or lubricants if you need to while your browsing.

This is the Catch Can that I used. I plugged the Filter with a rubber plug and used some Automotive GOOP to seal everything up good. No Vac Leaks.

I placed this b/t my PVC and my intake manifold and mounted it down along the inside of my engine compartment. I don't have any pics yet.
 

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well, i think im still just gonna run the cusco style cc. PCV----->CC------>IM.
This will be better over stock, and i dont for see any problems this way. I dont think the baffleing is really needed, because i dought whatever little oil builds up in the cc, will be able find its way into the intake mani under any circumstances other then rolling the car over, but if that happens you have more important things to worry about, then oil in your mani.
 

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chairwitharmrests said:
well, i think im still just gonna run the cusco style cc. PCV----->CC------>IM.
This will be better over stock, and i dont for see any problems this way. I dont think the baffleing is really needed, because i dought whatever little oil builds up in the cc, will be able find its way into the intake mani under any circumstances other then rolling the car over, but if that happens you have more important things to worry about, then oil in your mani.
The baffling is to better catch the oil out of the air that is briefly in the catch can when going back into your intake manifold. It has been proven that it does a much better job.
 
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