Hi Guys, need a hand.
I've read all the temperature and overheating threads; I've searched.
Is it possible that there is a different (read: hotter) fan switch\target temp, in the Base model RSX (DC5) than the others?
Possibly due to the less aggressive timing and the fact that a hotter Engine (but not overheating) = Better economy.
I ask because I had a plastic end tank go pop after a thermostat got partially stuck.
Luckily, I watched the needle start to rise, and turned it off right away!
No Headgasket symptoms. So lucky me.
So now I have a dual core full alloy radiator.
I also have a 71*C (stock is 77*C) thermostat now.
I Jacked the front end of the car to max height and burped the hoses.
Here's the thing.
Using my OBD-II scanguage-
My radiator fans come on at 98*C (208.4*F)
The needle doesn't raise above normal.
Temp drops to 92*C within 3 seconds of the fan coming on.
The fan reliably comes on at 98*C
Is there a problem?
Or is this possibly the running temp of the Base Model?
I've read that 98*C is the 'failsafe' point of the fans.
Is that the ECU forcing them on then, and the fan switch has failed?
Wouldn't that throw a CEL at me? I can't see anyhting wrong at all on the OBD-II.
Any advice appreciated.
More reading suggests the Stock switch could be 95*C
If this is correct, with such a large radiator, I'm not surprised the hot water isn't reaching the sensor at the bottom under idle conditions.
Which then makes perfect sense for the ECT to read 98*C before the 95*C sees the hot water.
But some sites claim 93*C... and 2* in Celcius.... is a hell of a big difference.
I don't really want to run an 80*C fan switch, but if the TypeR or TypeS has a 93*C and the base has a 95*C then I'd be keen on that.
Oooo Our local generic 'makes everything for radiators' company (TRIDON) makes a 90*C~85*C
That's probably ideal!