Nearly ready to run
newly swapped erratic idle
Alright, I just got my swap done..... put in Kpro and set it up and started the engine. It is idling really high at first, then after it warms up it starts idling erratically. I went through and rechecked the vacuum lines and double checked all the plugs and such. Here is where I am running into confusion..
I swapped a K20Z3 motor and wired it up with a K20A2 wiring harness and K-pro'ed ECU. I used the Karcepts mounting kit on the RBC intake for the K20A2 TB so I am using the MAP off the TB like it says to and I plugged the sensor next to the map for the evap purge and also plugged the origanal IM map like instructed by Karcepts and utilize the TB MAP sensor. Now I think I may have the coolant hoses for the IACV backward but I would not figure that would cause an issue. I origanally got a CEL but that is because I did not connect the IAT so it was getting a high volt error. I have connected that so it is fine now. The engine starts pretty easily, and I programmed the Kpro with the stock settings although I am running a race header and the RBC intake is far different than the A2.
Any thoughts of what I can do to correct this issue. I have not yet got the exhaust connected but there is well over 12" past the O2 so that should not be a factor, just loud as hell. thanks for any help in advance, just hope someone might have some fresh thoughts.
I swapped a K20Z3 motor and wired it up with a K20A2 wiring harness and K-pro'ed ECU. I used the Karcepts mounting kit on the RBC intake for the K20A2 TB so I am using the MAP off the TB like it says to and I plugged the sensor next to the map for the evap purge and also plugged the origanal IM map like instructed by Karcepts and utilize the TB MAP sensor. Now I think I may have the coolant hoses for the IACV backward but I would not figure that would cause an issue. I origanally got a CEL but that is because I did not connect the IAT so it was getting a high volt error. I have connected that so it is fine now. The engine starts pretty easily, and I programmed the Kpro with the stock settings although I am running a race header and the RBC intake is far different than the A2.
Any thoughts of what I can do to correct this issue. I have not yet got the exhaust connected but there is well over 12" past the O2 so that should not be a factor, just loud as hell. thanks for any help in advance, just hope someone might have some fresh thoughts.
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Nearly ready to run
thanks, I planned to pull it off later tonight and clean it as well as check the seals between the Karcepts mount plate for the TB to make sure the gaskets are not leaking, other than that just go through the system again and check the datalog for any clues. Its not throwing any CEL's so thats good. The SRS light is on, I thought that would not happen with the Kpro...... anybody else experience this, still have stock wheel and everything on...
pulled and cleaned, didnt do anything, probably going to get a new one, cant think of anything else it would be.... more to come I guess, have to hunt one down
I am getting frustrated with this whole thing, about to take it to the shop and tell them to fix it and be done. I hate the shop though, do all the work in the garage and like it that way but this is becoming a pain in the rear. I have cleaned the IAC and it has not really done any good, also I have burped the cooling system but it does not seem to be working right. The temp sensor and fan switch I got off hybrid does not seem to work... I grounded it out like it says and it works but when i plug it into the temp switch it does not adjust the gauge on the dash as its supposed to. the top of the Radiator gets smoking hot where the bottom is still cool to the touch. It also starts steaming and will overflow when you take the top off and still is cool on the bottom. I am not sure if there is a huge air bubble in the head or what but it does not seem to do much when after I bleed it. I still need to get the damn exhaust on but cannot get to the shop unless I tow it.. nice considering the oil pan clearance. I had a couple guys say they were going to come and look at it but never showed up. Oh well, guess I will figure it out eventually.
Just did that, will jack it up higher tomorrow when I get a chance and see what I can do. Thanks for looking though.
Will do that tomorrow, also starting the exhaust issue, going to lift her in the garage and work on her there, have a friend bring over a welder. good times.. will report in whatever i find
Alright, we are going to postpone messing with it until we can get the exhaust done, that way we can actually hear what the car is doing instead of trying to tune a dragster, so that is supposed to go down this weekend. With the issues of the transmission linkage between the A2 and Z2 being incompatable, I am going to fabricate a shifter mount that can be used with the factory 007 Si shifter, and try to keep it under the console with a factory look. I do have the Karcepts plate and revo technica shifter already installed with RSX cables but since I dont want to swap out the linkage on the transmission (already installed) due to having to do drill and relocate parts, I am going to just make an adapter mount for under the console out of aluminum and go from there. I will try to take pics of this one as we go so that if it works right, I can post up on K20.org and others can use it as well. I may end up getting a new IAC and installing and I switched the location of the MAP sensor but it did not improve anything. So for now, just working on fabbing up the aluminum pieces for welding and getting ready to strip out my console again. The people that were supposed to stop by for the Kpro tuning did not show up so I will probably finish the exhaust, put in a new IAC and take it to a shop for tuning from there. other than that, not much else to do until the new shifter and exhaust is installed.
1 - 8 of 14 Posts
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