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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I just picked up a K20A3 and have a couple questions about them and of course this is the best place for info on it. First the thing doesn't have any sensors. I have a TSX harness for it, But I don't want to buy any sensors if I dont need any. I have a 94 Del Sol S with a D16z6 in it now. Any clue on any sensors I do or don't need for the swap? Also I have the factory head for the A3 and a K24 head (not sure off of what exactly, I'll do more research on it tonight). But the obvious question is, what is the difference for these heads, and whats the best one for a turbo build?

I've been taking a lot of pictures of it since I picked it up in hopes of doing a build page on here this time. Help from you guys would be great because I hate going on random forums when this place seems like you all know everything about swaps and the motors. Thanks!
 

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Welcome man. Like civicmotorhead said man ditch that k20a3 and get a k20a2 (type s) swap. Take this advice wisely man. I've heard too many stories about people settling for the k20a3 and to only be sorry they didn't go with the k20a2 swap. To spend all of that money to put in the k20a3 and get sorry results is pointless. You also need to get another harness for it man.
 

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Welcome aboard man. :up:
 

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The K20A3 head will be fine *IF* you get more aggressive cams. If you want to boost it, the lower CR would be nice. But if you're staying NA, you might want a higher compression ratio. Are you planning on any doing any bottom end work or just want an engine to drop in?

If you want an idea which K24 head you have, look at the cams. If you have 3 lobes on each cam for each cylinder, you've got the TSX head. I wouldn't know how to distinguish the K24A1 (CRV) head from the other K24 heads though but the K24A1 head is interchangeable with the K20A3 head and might even flow better. But you definitely don't want the other K24 heads as you may have piston to valve contact.

If you just want to drop something in, just find a K20A2.

As for the TSX harness, I don't think you can use it. First the TSX is DBW and will have excess wiring. Second, I don' t think the ECU connectors are the same or pinned the same. But I don't know for sure.

One more thing. Cool to see another person with a Del Sol. :D
 

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Welcome Man Do What You Want. I Am Currently Building A K20a3 W/ Peak Boost Turbo Kit. I Know I Could Of Went With The K20a2 But I Like To Be Different. Worse Comes To Worse Ill Blow It Up And Start Over Again, But Do What You Want Man And Good Luck On What You Choose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, thanks for all the input guys! I'm deffinatly not doing NA. I have a fully built D16Z6 in the car now from a 92 SI that I built and did a Full-Race kit on it so I was deffinatly going along those lines again. So since I'm building for boost, what is the difference going to be between the blocks of the A2 to the A3? Will it be noticable enough to have to change blocks too or can I just swap the heads? I didn't get a chance to look at the head last night to check out what it was or not. Someone had told me that the caps for the cams have a code on them that says what head it is...but not sure if thats true or where to go to to find out what the code even means its out of. So If I'm rebuilding the whole motor (not just dropping it in) is it going to make much of a difference even between heads? Or will a major port and polish job for better flow be close to the same as doing a different head? Thanks again for everything! I'm glad I finally found a solid Honda site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok the other head I have has RAA stamped all over it, which I guess is an Accord head. whats the input? stick with the A3 head for the build? the RAA, or go with a different head?
 

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If it's an Accord head, don't use it. The A3 head is guaranteed to work with your setup. Typically, the concern with the Accord (and Element?) head is that there's piston to valve contact. Which means bent valves... :( But I'm not sure if that applies to the K20A3 stock pistons. I wouldn't try though. The Accord head's setup is no better than the K20A3 (neither have the 3 lobe cams).

The A3 is better suited for boost because of the lower compression ratio. I'm not sure how strong the A3 rods are but plenty of EP3 guys have moderately boosted without issue.

The K20A3 head can be improved with cams, springs and valves. But you don't get certain benefits as the exhaust cam has only one lobe meaning it's a "one size fits all" setup. So, it uses the same lobe before and after VTEC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the input! guess that means I can finish painting the head I have on it now! As I said I'm deffinatly redoing everything in the motor. I rebuilt my D series from the ground up and its nice not having to worry about anything going wrong with it. Its deffinatly worth a couple extra grand to have the assurance that I wont have any issues and that I'll get good enough numbers.

I suppose I'll just build the A3 then unless there is any other input?
 

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I have a question. Why not a K24? The K24A1 (CRV) is low compression, has a similar head setup to the K20A3 but flows around as well as the Type S head. But the CRV rods are kinda thin. There's also the K24A2 (TSX) which is pretty good as is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well the reasoning to why I have the parts list that I have is that a guy at my shop had a brand new ecu, wire harness, alternator, the two heads, the block (fully loaded with factory stuff) and a bunch of other things and i bought them off of him for 400 bucks, so I couldn't really pass up the deal. I was thinking I could resell the stuff and get a different head if its going to make a huge difference even if i were to do headwork and aftermarket stuff to it. If there is another head thats going to make a huge difference even after modification then I'll do it. I'm just in here by input
 
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