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Discussion Starter #1
So my EG is dropped on Skunk2 sleeves all around, stock shocks up front and Koni Yellows in the rear. Looks to have an Si rear left LCA, and a stock rear right LCA.
Now then... my car is just way to fuckin low for my driveway. Car is sitting on 14" del sol wheels, and the car is dropped.


The alignment is definately all fucked up because i can feel it going around turns and on the highway. Toe, camber and whatever else are totally off.

This is my plan of action... let me know what you guys think.

Ground Control/Koni Yellow combo - 450 Front / 550 Rear
Ground Control Upper Mounts
USDM ITR Front LCA's
USDM ITR Rear LCA's
Password JDM Front 3-pt. strut bar
Password JDM Rear 2-pt. strut bar
ASR Rear Sub-frame Reinforment Brace
JDM ITR 23mm rear sway bar
USDM ITR 24mm front sway bar
SPC Adjustable Upper Ball Joint
SPC EZ Arms XR Rear Camber Control Arms
15x7 wheels
205/50R15 Falen Azenis RT-615's

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UPDATED SETUP
Stage 1
GC/Koni Combo - 450 Front/400 Rear ORDERED 4/26/06 || Koni's RECIEVED 5/2/2006
GC Upper Mounts
GC Soft, Progressive 10-14mm Foam Bump Stops
'99 GSR Front LCA's ORDERED 4/27/06 || RECIEVED 5/2/2006
Function 7 Rear LCA's ORDERED 4/29/06 || RECIEVED 5/3/2006
Rota J.SPL 15x6.5 Wheels ORDERED 4/28/06 || RECIEVED 5/15/2006
Falken Azenis RT-615 205/50R15 ORDERED 4/27/06 || RECIEVED 5/2/2006
Mugen Front Compliance Bushing Set
Mugen Front Lower Arm Bushing Set
Mugen Front Shock Absorber Fork Bushing Set
Honda OEM Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
Function 7 Rear Endlinks
ASR Rear Reinforcement Brace Kit Purchased USED 5/5/2006
USDM ITR 24mm Front Sway Bar Purchased USED 5/5/2006
Mugen 26mm Rear Sway Bar Purchased USED 5/5/2006
********************

What do you guys think of this setup? I want the drop on the car to be like a finger and a half gap from fender to tire.

Any and all criticism, opinions, advice is welcome!

-Jalal
 

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Discussion Starter #3
suprfast said:
I likes. Sounds similar to my setup
kris
You'll be getting an order from me real soon buddy.
-Jalal
 

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If you are planning on changing yoru brakes (4 wheel disc) you may want to wait till you get your new trailing arms and knuckle (if you get new ones) to do that...

I would also wait on teh SPC camber/toe adjusters to see if you really even need them when you are done...

everything else looks good to me...
 

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jon v said:
If you are planning on changing yoru brakes (4 wheel disc) you may want to wait till you get your new trailing arms and knuckle (if you get new ones) to do that...

I would also wait on teh SPC camber/toe adjusters to see if you really even need them when you are done...

everything else looks good to me...
Btw, you do not need to change the trailing arms out. If you take your time you can upgrade to rear disk using my method of just taking out the hub and replacing it with the disk for the rear. do a search for my brake thread...im lazy right now
kris
 

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Definitely do the bushings before everything else. You'll thank yourself later.

Now i know you eventually want to get into some autoX/RR activities with this thing so...

Spring rates are on the softer side, but that will be a benefit in the comfort department.

Why the ITR front and rear controls arms? Are you purchasing a 5-lug setup?

I'd probably go with a smaller front swaybar such as a 21-22mm found on the Civic EX and Integra LS. 24mm seems to have negative effects in the understeer department.

Strut bars are pretty. Roll bars work better.

And lastly...

I've said it before and i'll say it once more... ASR is overkill for the EG/DC2 chassis.
 

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suprfast said:
Btw, you do not need to change the trailing arms out. If you take your time you can upgrade to rear disk using my method of just taking out the hub and replacing it with the disk for the rear. do a search for my brake thread...im lazy right now
kris
true you do not need to get new trailing arms or knuckles...

but if you are trying to avoid down time and your brake swap comes with a set of trailing arms and knuckles it is sometimes easier to have a complete assembly off of the car to work on and get ready while you still have the old stuff on the car.

and I agree with #2 as far as the roll bars go. different people like different kind of "responce" from there cars. Thats why I run a huge rear bar with no front, I like the oversteer. I think both of the ITR bars will give you a very nutreul feeling, if thats what you are looking for... :rolleyes:
 

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i have koni/GC with rates of 400f 450r thanks to kris.
Also, ES bushings on the rears, OEM on the front
ITR front sway bar.
SRR LCA's, skunk 2 lower tie bar.
15x6.5 slips wrapped in 205-50 RT615's

heres a pic:

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I already have GSR rear disc's guys!
:)
-Jalal
 

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#2 said:
Definitely do the bushings before everything else. You'll thank yourself later.

Now i know you eventually want to get into some autoX/RR activities with this thing so...

Spring rates are on the softer side, but that will be a benefit in the comfort department.

Why the ITR front and rear controls arms? Are you purchasing a 5-lug setup?

I'd probably go with a smaller front swaybar such as a 21-22mm found on the Civic EX and Integra LS. 24mm seems to have negative effects in the understeer department.

Strut bars are pretty. Roll bars work better.

And lastly...

I've said it before and i'll say it once more... ASR is overkill for the EG/DC2 chassis.
For the Front Sway bar you can use an EX/Si LCA's , and the rear you are going to have to buy a new Koni shock ( for and ITR if you didnt already know:) ) so it will fit in the ITR Rear LCA's. I personally like my USDM ITR Fr and Rr sway bar setup . No complaints what-so-ever. Though I do not Auto-X , I do spend a fair amount of time (...everyday) in canyons. ASR is overkill for EG/DC2 chassis , try the beaks. Much more cost effective and it does the job well :) . Strut bars do help , I would buy those first before comitting to a roll bar inside....just my opinion bro . Maybe it will help.... Oh and I wouldn't rec GC with the ITR sway bars . Buy some REAL springs.You may just rip your subframe with those.... I dont know why people have such a hard-on for those !!! If you want coil-overs go buy some REAL ones....
 

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JDM_EG08 said:
For the Front Sway bar you can use an EX/Si LCA's , and the rear you are going to have to buy a new Koni shock ( for and ITR if you didnt already know:) ) so it will fit in the ITR Rear LCA's. I personally like my USDM ITR Fr and Rr sway bar setup . No complaints what-so-ever. Though I do not Auto-X , I do spend a fair amount of time (...everyday) in canyons. ASR is overkill for EG/DC2 chassis , try the beaks. Much more cost effective and it does the job well :) . Strut bars do help , I would buy those first before comitting to a roll bar inside....just my opinion bro . Maybe it will help.... Oh and I wouldn't rec GC with the ITR sway bars . Buy some REAL springs.You may just rip your subframe with those.... I dont know why people have such a hard-on for those POS!!! If you want coil-overs go buy some REAL ones....
Wow, you are way off base. GC w/ koni shocks are the real deal. people have a hard one for them because they know whats good. Ive ran 450/600 rates in a CRX for YEARS with 0 issues. Ive ran 1000 rates in the rears for drag cars with 0 issues. Im not telling you that you cant bash GC, you are allowed an opinion but please back it up with facts.
kris
 

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Hey guys, I don't really know too much about the setup you guys are talking about, but I do know about the setup that I am running and I love it. It is the full-race setup from omni-power. It gives me plenty of adjusting which is good b/c I can change the ride height of my car almost as fast as I can take a rim off and back on again. Aslo it is fucking amazing, I have had the kit for almost a year now and no complaints, the thing hadles like it is on rails. My friends dad has a lotus, we g-teched the sideways g's that each car pulled, the lotus=1.09, my eg=1.13. Hell yah. Anyways I know it is off subject but just giving you another great option.

 

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is that the drag setup with 12k fr 16k r rates?
 

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JDM_EG08 said:
For the Front Sway bar you can use an EX/Si LCA's , and the rear you are going to have to buy a new Koni shock ( for and ITR if you didnt already know:) ) so it will fit in the ITR Rear LCA's. I personally like my USDM ITR Fr and Rr sway bar setup . No complaints what-so-ever. Though I do not Auto-X , I do spend a fair amount of time (...everyday) in canyons. ASR is overkill for EG/DC2 chassis , try the beaks. Much more cost effective and it does the job well :) . Strut bars do help , I would buy those first before comitting to a roll bar inside....just my opinion bro . Maybe it will help.... Oh and I wouldn't rec GC with the ITR sway bars . Buy some REAL springs.You may just rip your subframe with those.... I dont know why people have such a hard-on for those POS!!! If you want coil-overs go buy some REAL ones....
Have you ever driven a car with koni/GC? Why are you bashing something that thousands of honda-techers, as well as many people on k20a.org swear by? Before i had my GC's, i had h&r sport springs, okay but i wanted adjustability and a stiffer rate. GC's offer the best choice. NO coilover under i'd say 1200, is worth buying IMO. Second, most people who think coilovers are the way to go, are buying them for the look, not many people need coilovers as they will not use them to their full potential. Now before you give your OPINION, which lacks any facts, stop reading honda tuning and go out and learn some stuff.
 

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You shouldnt need the GC upper mounts in the rear if you dont plan to slam the car to the ground.
 

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The Dza said:
Have you ever driven a car with koni/GC? Why are you bashing something that thousands of honda-techers, as well as many people on k20a.org swear by? Before i had my GC's, i had h&r sport springs, okay but i wanted adjustability and a stiffer rate. GC's offer the best choice. NO coilover under i'd say 1200, is worth buying IMO. Second, most people who think coilovers are the way to go, are buying them for the look, not many people need coilovers as they will not use them to their full potential. Now before you give your OPINION, which lacts any facts, stop reading honda tuning and go out and learn some stuff.
I am not bashing the GC setup, and no I have never driven a car with that setup. I do not believe in ANY slip on coil over ( from what I have driven). From my experience they cause nothing but problems. If they work for "thousands of HT " then great. Oh and I should stop reading Honda Tuning?!?Ive been messing hondas for 10 years and been a full-time Honda tech for 6 years , your preaching to the choir here buddy.....this forums is for people to trade ideas AND facts. Keep your GC's. But not evreyone needs to buy the same set-up.... And I was a lil boozie so dont get mad....
 

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suprfast said:
Wow, you are way off base. GC w/ koni shocks are the real deal. people have a hard one for them because they know whats good. Ive ran 450/600 rates in a CRX for YEARS with 0 issues. Ive ran 1000 rates in the rears for drag cars with 0 issues. Im not telling you that you cant bash GC, you are allowed an opinion but please back it up with facts.
kris
OK maybe I bashed slightly , but not everyone has to get the same set-up...... Maybe they are the real deal , but there are plenty of other "deals" out there. You guys enjoy your GC/Koni setup.....but they are NOT the best thing since sliced bread......lol I knew this would ruffle some feathers......oh and I was just a Little boozie when I wrote that :) so don't take it too personnaly.....
 

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JDM_EG08 said:
OK maybe I bashed slightly , but not everyone has to get the same set-up...... Maybe they are the real deal , but there are plenty of other "deals" out there. You guys enjoy your GC/Koni setup.....but they are NOT the best thing since sliced bread......lol I knew this would ruffle some feathers......oh and I was just a Little boozie when I wrote that :) so don't take it too personnaly.....
I never take it personally. I just like to hear what other peoples opinons are. All that will do is further educate me on something that i might not know about
kris
 
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