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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am also a gunsmith and have started to use a product called DuraCoat to apply a finish onto AR15's and other rifles/handguns as well. This coating is a 2 part Poly Enamel that is very impervious to wear & tear, as well as most all oils and fuels. http://www.lauerweaponry.com/duracoatcolors.cfm?colortype=stock&Category=220

http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

This is actually a Sherwin Williams product called Polane. There are several different versions of Polane available that are used by alot of major industrial manufacturers, but this specific version of it(Duracoat) is formulated to be impervious to most solvents and fuel, and if the substrate is properly prepped it is also impervious to chipping, wear or scratching.
Most all the colors available are shades of subdued camo colors but they also have a full spectrum of vibrant colors and the 3 clearcoat's(matte, semi-gloss, and super gloss) can be mixed to achieve any desired gloss as well as the actual pigmented paint so that any color imaginable can be applied.

This coating also can be applied to metal, plastic, wood and most any other surface. It will not wear off a firearm from normal handling(war zone) for several lifetimes of use.

I will try this on several small items and brackets as soon as the supergloss clear gets here. This appears to be far better than a polyester powder coating(which can melt at higher temps and scratch very easily) for ease of application(no post cure heat required(but it does reduce cure time)) and a simple box made of aluminized foam and a light bulb can be used to make an oven to heat the Duracoat(110 degrees for an hour is all that is required).

With the nice warm weather today I decided to paint the smoothed over coolant outlet from a TSX head. Cleaned all traces of oil and debris. then mixed up the Duracoat. It mixes in a 12:1 ratio(1 tablespoon of color to 1/8 teaspoon of hardner or a multiple of those)

I shot a matte black and then a satin clear. total time 1 hour.
I used a small airbrush I picked up from True-Value hardware for 9$ and my shop air compressor at 20psi







I will be doing alot of components with this material, timing chain cover, water passageway, mani and a few other items, but I will probably use the gloss clear as well, though the satin clear really looks nice.
 

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Wow, that's awesome :D How hard is it to apply and is there much prep involved?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It goes on very easy, no primer required, simply sandblast or use 440 grit paper. You must make sure there is absolutely no oil contamination, scrub with some brake clean, wipe down with laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth allow to dry and paint away. Pre heating the part slightly(110 degrees) will help the paint flash off and keep the chance of any debris finding it's way onto the surface. Post cure at 110 degrees for 15 minutes is enough to handle and install, but it is best to wait another 24 hours.

also this paint will withstand temps to 550 degrees, perfect for engine components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After allowing the coating to cure overnight the results are awesome!

The costs, convienience and end results so far, blow powdercoating out of the water!
 

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Sounds like the best thing for a lot of parts that'll see hard duty, like suspension etc. Keep us posted.
 

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very nice stuff... You think you could do wheels with stuff with good results?


what is the nipple on the top of the passage used for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
very nice stuff... You think you could do wheels with stuff with good results?


what is the nipple on the top of the passage used for?
I cant see why wheels couldnt be done.

That nipple is for the coolant source for the VC breather heater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is an example of what this coating was originally developed for

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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I have been looking for something like this. :up: I plan on painting my whole engine matte black.

Can you tell me exactly what to buy on that website?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have had parts on the engine most of the summer and short of actually sandblasting them, the stuff has held up very well, you must be carefull for at least a week or so unless you post cure in a hotbox/oven at 120-140 degrees. I made up a simple hot box from some aluminum coated foam(used as house insulation) and a lightbulb.

If you are planning on spraying large parts it is far better to order Polan from your local Sherwin Williams paint store.

Here is the coolant outlet mounted, gotta make a custom electrical harness to clean up that side of the head.(sounds like a good winter project!)

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thats pretty close to binghamton ny maybe?
Yup, not far from there, when it is time to head to civilization, ie a real store, that is where we head to.
 
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