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1. What problem are you trying to fix?
2. Upgrading to rear discs does very little to improve braking since the fronts do nearly all of the braking.
3. SS lines will do very little the improve braking. OEM rubber lines don't flex as much as the ads in the magazines will lead you to believe.
4. motul brake fluid is good stuff, but absorbs moisture quickly. Fluid like ATE superblue and ATE type 200 gold are a better choice for a street car... Unless you want to bleed your brakes every couple of months.

On a side note, I did some research on SS lines a while back. They were not created to improve braking or brake pedal feel, etc... They were created to keep people from getting their brake lines cut by debris on the track.
A side note on a side note, they aren't immune to being damaged either...

good OE lines are just as good as good SS lines.

And crappy old brittle OE lines are just as bad as old, crappy worn out SS lines.

Once your car hits the track enough, almost everything in the braking system becomes a "wear item". MC, Calipers, rotors, brakes lines (non hard lines), pads, ect all need to be replaced on a maintenance schedule.


The NUBMER ONE best thing you can do to improve you braking power, (IE decrease the distance it take you to stop ONCE), is to have stickier and or wider tires.

If you brakes can lock up the tires you have now, well then adding more "brake" to the system isn't going to help you improve braking power.


Things like the spoon calipers (which are very good), or a brembo 'entry level caliper' usually don't improve your braking power. What they do do is spread the force you are apply to the pads through your foot over a larger area of the pad. IIRC the surface area of the 2 (or what ever the number of pistons the spoon caliper has) is equal to that of the one piston found in the ITR caliper. When really beating on an ITR it is not uncommon to have the pad actually bend in a U shape (with the center of the pads being the bottom of the U and the out edges being the tops). (note this issue is present on many single piston caliper equipped cars) By have 2 pistons (or 3 or 4 or 6..) you spread the force of the piston(s) over a larger area and you don't end up with uneven pad wear. Uneven pad were means you were not using all the brake pad you have, which means you weren't using 100% of the brakes which equals slower laps times on the track.
 

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GSR doesn't have any bigger brakes then any 94-01 integra (excluding ITR).

It sounds like you weren't pushing on the brake pedal hard enough...

BUT the brakes are a bit "undersized" for a swaped hatch...

That said I'd say you have two options with one being much more "blingy" then the other.

Option #1
1.) 1991 honda civic EX 4 door Master cylinder (this is a 15/16 MC and is THE only direct bolt on to your brake booster) retail is around $150-160.
2.) Get some Hawk HP+ or HP pads, or if you want some thing a little more agressive go for the carbotech bobcat.
3.) purchase some 15x7 wheels (rota slips, 949racing 6UL, ect ect)
4.) purchase some good performance tires you have MANY options (falken azenis, Toyo R1R, Bridgestone RE-11)

Option #2
1.) 94-01 Integra (non ITR) front spindles with hubs/bearings/rotors/calipers, and rear trailing arms with hubs/bearings/rotors/calipers. $300 (used in good condition
2.) 1991 honda civic EX 4 door Master cylinder (this is a 15/16 MC and is THE only direct bolt on to your brake booster) retail is around $150-160.
3.) Get some Hawk HP+ or HP pads, or if you want some thing a little more agressive go for the carbotech bobcat and new rotors at autozone/kragen (cheap ones).$80-120 for pads and $60 for a set of rotors.
4.) purchase some 15x7 wheels (rota slips, 949racing 6UL, ect ect)$400-$600
5.) purchase some good performance tires you have MANY options (falken azenis, Toyo R1R, Bridgestone RE-11) $500 to $700


Option 1 would COMPLETLY solve the "issue" you have with your brakes, and is a fine option.

Option 2 would completly solve the issue, and maybe others in the future. Only issue with this is sometimes the hubs/bearings/calipers are trash and need to be replaced. This can add around $800 to the cost of the brake swap.
 

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People suggest the integra MC because most people think it is the only option to get a 15/16 MC. To use the integra MC you must bend the get the RS one (no ABS so the fittings are the same) and you HAVE to buy the integra booster because the mounting tabs for the MC are oppisite VS the civic.

If you purchase the MC for a 1991 honda civic EX 4 door(which is a 15/16 MC) you can just bolt it up and be done with it.

BTW the size of the MC is what makes the difference. Most civics have a 7/8th MC. The ITR comes with a 1 inch but that requires the booster and cutting bending and re-flaring of the lines with new fittings. And isn't needed.
 
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