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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently I have Brembo blanks with HAWK pads on my EH2. They do better than stock but thats about it. If I were wanting to redo my brake setup should I:

1. Replace lines w/ ss brake lines, get new master cylinder, etc. (I've seen some people get one from an integra and put it in their civic)

2. Get something like Spoon calipers or a big brake setup?
- with that, are the Spoon calipers that big of a help or just a hype?
-and, is there a difference in stopping power between Spoon caliper and a big brake setup?

3. Replace rear drums w/ disc conversion

Are any of these options(or combination of) better than the other? Or is there something else that is done to greatly improve stopping power?

And I just found that brake system write up :up:, so that'll help a little.
 

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you should get a rear disc conversion with 40/40 prop valve from a DA integra or 92-95 si, and ss brake lines. integra master cylinder/booster does help too.
 

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I have the rear discs from an Integra in my EH, with good pads and SS Lines, still need to upgrade the MC though(have it, just don't have the time). My setup works great as long as I have heat in the pads, depends on the pads though, that's probably the biggest factor in overall braking is the pads themselves.
 

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yah the SS lines make a world of difference... That with a new brake booster and MC, and a rear disc conversion and you should be much happier...

If you still need more after that any type of front caliper upgrade (big brake kit) should be able to use the same SS lines you already have.

And I personally think that some of the big break kits are not worth the money you have to spend on them when there are OEM upgrades that can be pieced together or kits that you can get from places like Fastbrakes
 

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1. What problem are you trying to fix?
2. Upgrading to rear discs does very little to improve braking since the fronts do nearly all of the braking.
3. SS lines will do very little the improve braking. OEM rubber lines don't flex as much as the ads in the magazines will lead you to believe.
4. motul brake fluid is good stuff, but absorbs moisture quickly. Fluid like ATE superblue and ATE type 200 gold are a better choice for a street car... Unless you want to bleed your brakes every couple of months.

On a side note, I did some research on SS lines a while back. They were not created to improve braking or brake pedal feel, etc... They were created to keep people from getting their brake lines cut by debris on the track.
 

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1. What problem are you trying to fix?
2. Upgrading to rear discs does very little to improve braking since the fronts do nearly all of the braking.
3. SS lines will do very little the improve braking. OEM rubber lines don't flex as much as the ads in the magazines will lead you to believe.
4. motul brake fluid is good stuff, but absorbs moisture quickly. Fluid like ATE superblue and ATE type 200 gold are a better choice for a street car... Unless you want to bleed your brakes every couple of months.

On a side note, I did some research on SS lines a while back. They were not created to improve braking or brake pedal feel, etc... They were created to keep people from getting their brake lines cut by debris on the track.
A side note on a side note, they aren't immune to being damaged either...

good OE lines are just as good as good SS lines.

And crappy old brittle OE lines are just as bad as old, crappy worn out SS lines.

Once your car hits the track enough, almost everything in the braking system becomes a "wear item". MC, Calipers, rotors, brakes lines (non hard lines), pads, ect all need to be replaced on a maintenance schedule.


The NUBMER ONE best thing you can do to improve you braking power, (IE decrease the distance it take you to stop ONCE), is to have stickier and or wider tires.

If you brakes can lock up the tires you have now, well then adding more "brake" to the system isn't going to help you improve braking power.


Things like the spoon calipers (which are very good), or a brembo 'entry level caliper' usually don't improve your braking power. What they do do is spread the force you are apply to the pads through your foot over a larger area of the pad. IIRC the surface area of the 2 (or what ever the number of pistons the spoon caliper has) is equal to that of the one piston found in the ITR caliper. When really beating on an ITR it is not uncommon to have the pad actually bend in a U shape (with the center of the pads being the bottom of the U and the out edges being the tops). (note this issue is present on many single piston caliper equipped cars) By have 2 pistons (or 3 or 4 or 6..) you spread the force of the piston(s) over a larger area and you don't end up with uneven pad wear. Uneven pad were means you were not using all the brake pad you have, which means you weren't using 100% of the brakes which equals slower laps times on the track.
 

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I had an 86 CRX. I swapped out the rear drums for Integra discs and upsized to Integra discs and calipers on the front. I also put on better tires. This all made a world of difference.

As noted by others, if you can lockup your current tires, you need better rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
good info :up: some of the info is contradicting to the others....which makes it a little harder to decide :silly:

I am not tracking this car. It will be a daily. From what I can remember (I haven't driven the car in a while, nor did I have many situations where I had to test the brakes) sudden stops from slow speeds werent as quick as what I wanted. I was just unhappy all around with the brakes IMO.

If I were to go with disc conversion, should I

upgrade all wheels? Or just the back?

ITR conversion or GSR? is there much difference? what years do i look for?

What components do I need with the setup? I know you can buy full conversions but just in case.
 

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GSR doesn't have any bigger brakes then any 94-01 integra (excluding ITR).

It sounds like you weren't pushing on the brake pedal hard enough...

BUT the brakes are a bit "undersized" for a swaped hatch...

That said I'd say you have two options with one being much more "blingy" then the other.

Option #1
1.) 1991 honda civic EX 4 door Master cylinder (this is a 15/16 MC and is THE only direct bolt on to your brake booster) retail is around $150-160.
2.) Get some Hawk HP+ or HP pads, or if you want some thing a little more agressive go for the carbotech bobcat.
3.) purchase some 15x7 wheels (rota slips, 949racing 6UL, ect ect)
4.) purchase some good performance tires you have MANY options (falken azenis, Toyo R1R, Bridgestone RE-11)

Option #2
1.) 94-01 Integra (non ITR) front spindles with hubs/bearings/rotors/calipers, and rear trailing arms with hubs/bearings/rotors/calipers. $300 (used in good condition
2.) 1991 honda civic EX 4 door Master cylinder (this is a 15/16 MC and is THE only direct bolt on to your brake booster) retail is around $150-160.
3.) Get some Hawk HP+ or HP pads, or if you want some thing a little more agressive go for the carbotech bobcat and new rotors at autozone/kragen (cheap ones).$80-120 for pads and $60 for a set of rotors.
4.) purchase some 15x7 wheels (rota slips, 949racing 6UL, ect ect)$400-$600
5.) purchase some good performance tires you have MANY options (falken azenis, Toyo R1R, Bridgestone RE-11) $500 to $700


Option 1 would COMPLETLY solve the "issue" you have with your brakes, and is a fine option.

Option 2 would completly solve the issue, and maybe others in the future. Only issue with this is sometimes the hubs/bearings/calipers are trash and need to be replaced. This can add around $800 to the cost of the brake swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It could be that I wasnt pushing the brakes hard enough. Stopping wise, do you still recommend the civic mc. I was under the impression that the integra would provide better performance. Or did you simply just put that because it was a direct/easy fit?
 

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People suggest the integra MC because most people think it is the only option to get a 15/16 MC. To use the integra MC you must bend the get the RS one (no ABS so the fittings are the same) and you HAVE to buy the integra booster because the mounting tabs for the MC are oppisite VS the civic.

If you purchase the MC for a 1991 honda civic EX 4 door(which is a 15/16 MC) you can just bolt it up and be done with it.

BTW the size of the MC is what makes the difference. Most civics have a 7/8th MC. The ITR comes with a 1 inch but that requires the booster and cutting bending and re-flaring of the lines with new fittings. And isn't needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I only looked at one site but they only had 13/16 and 7/8. Can you pick them up from a local autoparts store?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That isn't a suprise. You NEED to be very very specific and make sure the site/store isn't grouping it in with the rest.

If you can't find it locally PM me, I can get you one for $150 shipped.
thanks! I will keep that in mind.
 

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Your brakes are only as good as the 4 rubber contact patches touching the ground. :)

Christian
 
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