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Most of you know that I think I spun a rod bearing in my RSX chassis K20A2. I hate to say this but I think the fluttering sound I heard was coming from a loose spark plug. After we pulled the motor, I started loosening all the spark plugs when I realized that the cylinder #3 spark plug was really loose. So loose that there was carbon buildup on the entire sparkplug and the coilpack. Could the combustion that was leaking through the threads/spark plug hole make a fluttering sound similar to a spun bearing? So I spent the past week swapping the K20A2 from my EG into the RSX. The RSX now has the K20A2 longblock(with attached sensors) from the EG. But I swapped out valvesprings, camshafts, and the clutch/flywheel back to OEM parts(all of which came from my original RSX engine). So I took out the IPS OEM specified valvetrain along with the K2s and the Toda clutch/flywheel, and replaced them all with OEM shit. Those were the only changes. Now everything on the EG K20A2 worked flawlessly before we pulled the motor.

We get everything installed into the RSX, fill the fluids, and start it up. I took it for a ride around a parking lot and everything seemed fine. So I drove the car into town. Along the way, I pulled out from a stoplight and in 2nd gear, I floored it. I had the radio playing but I'm positive I felt VTEC engage and I could feel the car pulling. I was only in VTEC for a couple seconds then shifted into 3rd. Immediately after, the CEL came on. The VTEC wouldn't engage after that. It stays on the low cam the entire time and won't crossover. THE OIL LEVEL IS NOT LOW!lol

I'm going to have the code scanned today after work but I'm just looking for some ideas. I haven't tried resetting the ecu yet. I also might try installing my k-pro ecu in place of the stock ecu. Could the VTEC selenoid be bad? That is located above the oil filter, right? I was also considering swapping out the whole VTEC selenoid assembly for the one that came from the bad motor. Could the VTC actuator have something to do with it? Until I get the code, I can only speculate. I'm just in disbelief because everything worked perfectly before the swap.

Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: My speedometer will work for about 15 minutes then it'll start jumping around. After about a minute of jumping around, it'll just drop to zero and stay there the rest of the trip. This happens everything I take the car somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nikos said:
wire VTEC directly and see if it works
How the hell do I do that?lol I'm ignorant when it comes to wiring, checking voltages and the troubleshooting instructions in the Helms manual.
 

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Toda Pwr said:
How the hell do I do that?lol I'm ignorant when it comes to wiring, checking voltages and the troubleshooting instructions in the Helms manual.
Put a test light on the red and black wire of the solenoid vtec and ask your friend once your are suposed to be in the vtec to see the light on it mean that is not an electrical problem, it might be inside of your motor.we had the same problem yesterday on the dyno, friend of mine has intend to tune his car turbo, but he only made 213 whp , because the vtec wont engage and we test the electrical side with a test light and the light came on , soo its a mechanical problem
 

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If your speedo reads 0, vtec wont engage, the ecu has a minimum vehicle speed for vtec or atleast the K-Pro has the option to change the speed so I am guessing the functionality is built in to the stock ecu.
 

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Hmmm...you speedo is bouncing everywhere. Check your fuses underneath the cluster and in the engine bay as well.
 

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possibly loose VSS in the tranny

see sig for checking CEL
 

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checked the trans level??
the earth wires on the head?
oil pressure sensor plug on the back of the block?
VSS sensor? if you have a laptop plug it into a k-pro and switch the speed sensor to permanent signal and try running it and see if the vtec engages, if it does its the speed sensor, if not its something else..

But plugging the k-pro in will give you a good idea of what the issue is as it should be listed in the error codes...
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Hello everyone,

I got a similar problem (see above). When the engine go up to the VTEC rpm and reach it, it do make a noise like at redline...it is not possible to stride through this VTEC point. What did I do already:

  • checked the VTEC solenoid -> functioned (12V power pack...klick, klick)
  • checked VTEC pressure sensor -> functioned (back to back with a new one)
  • checked VSS (signal)-> functioned (= I can see it at see stack display, signal comes from the ECU)
  • did a oil and oil filter change with 10W60
  • checked VTEC strainer -> clean
  • checked oil pressure level -> between 3 and 5,5 bar (it is a SAE60 oil ;) )
  • changed testwise the complete VTEC solenoid -> does also not work
  • checked rpm signal -> functioned (= I can see it on the stack display, signals comes from ECU)

As stated from xtcat8k above, I was checking the ground wiring and I determined that fuel ground is connected to the intake manifold not as Hondata recommend it. I wondering about this...20 miles ago it was working proberly with that ground position...now I run against a VTEC point wall :frage:

Please let me know if you can see something I have to check to get forward, if the grounding at that postition is valid, as I am not a electric expert.

At the moment I am using a PRA ECU, so it will be good if I can test your recommentments with a voltmeter.

Many thanks in advance for your help and happe Easter!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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What I have forgotten, the engine cooling system have had a leakage (better said it ripped), why the car broke down...I am not sure, but it is possible that the liners/engine didn't see any cooling water while running.

Last data from stack display before engine shut down:
  • 128 °C (around 262 °F) for cooling water
  • 112 °C (around 232 °C) for oil

Because of the overheating, there comes up a knocking noise from the engine even at lowest throttle changes...so I assume, there was not a ideal cooling water level in the crank case around the liners. Cylinder head gasket was not jet changed, cylinder pressure gauge tells me 9 bar +- 0.5 bar for all cylinders.

Maybe the piezo-electric of the anti-knock system got melted? But the before the cooling system break down, the VTEC system already was out of order, but only sometimes...starting the engine once again brought it into a proper function.

I need help...thanks :)

This in addition to the above.

Thanks
 

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If u get a kpro and put that into the lotus. Drive the car or at least start it and watch the water temp. Then after u run the car check the kpro for any problem codes. That would be the first step but I honestly don't understand what your problem is?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Thanks for your advice!

ECU shows a cooling water temperature of 77 °C (171 °F), that's what I can read from the stack display in the cockpit, which get's it values directly from the ECU.

Sorry for beiing unclear. The problem is, VTEC does not engage, when it should engage. VTEC point is set at 4500 rpm. I assume the ECU is missing a signal or a specific signal level of e.g. cooling water temperature...in this case it shows a acceptable level. Maybe a other parameter, called by the ECU, didn't reach the threshold?

Today I did connect a KPro'd PRB ECU to the engine harness (OEM Map file for K20A2)...but no engine start, only starter rpm because fuel pump didn't work. I will have to find the right connector position of my PRA harness for the fuel pump and will come back with better information :door:

Thanks
 

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If you are having issues with the VSS vtec will not engage. Make sure everything is ok with the VSS , wiring from vss signal and Ecu signal. Once you get that working correctly , if the problem still persists then continue to trouble shoot.But I would def. start with that.
 
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