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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been reading and looking around trying to find a reputable place to buy a built k20 head with cams, want to also send my k24z block for full build. Goals na 300whp likely going with hayward itb as well. Have hondata kpro for tuning.
I saw kmod has tons of terrible reviews but emails have been good. Although thst doesn't mean much if they dont come through is this true? As in they are bad to deal with?
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Ive been reading and looking around trying to find a reputable place to buy a built k20 head with cams, want to also send my k24z block for full build. Goals na 300whp likely going with hayward itb as well. Have hondata kpro for tuning.
I saw kmod has tons of terrible reviews but emails have been good. Although thst doesn't mean much if they dont come through is this true? As in they are bad to deal with?
I know a member From K20a.org personally who had trubble with KMOD. If you like I can send you the member Name, may he will tell you his KMOD story.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Ive been reading and looking around trying to find a reputable place to buy a built k20 head with cams, want to also send my k24z block for full build. Goals na 300whp likely going with hayward itb as well. Have hondata kpro for tuning.
I saw kmod has tons of terrible reviews but emails have been good. Although thst doesn't mean much if they dont come through is this true? As in they are bad to deal with?
I know a member From K20a.org personally who had trubble with KMOD. If you like I can send you the member Name, may he will tell you his KMOD story.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What companies do you recommend to get a full k20z3 head build with cams and supplies the head
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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What companies do you recommend to get a full k20z3 head build with cams and supplies the head
I have my own company developing, building and tuning race engines. I am the wrong person to answer this. We have many built threads here where the 300 whp was hit, e.g. like this here: 09 Civic Si K24 Build 295hp, 213tq DYNOJET FTMFW or this here: Finished up my build dyno sheet coming. All of them start with an 231 mm block height and 99 mm stroke crankshaft and a K20 cylinder head. Key features are engine speed capability, valve timing, port flow and alternation of load parts.

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How much is it to build a set up similar to this where i provide k24z3 block and you provide k20z head and of course i get app parts from you and assembled by you. I have oil pumo, pan, and a few others. I have kmiata kit basically as this is going in a miata.
 

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I emailed a few days ago. Waiting on response. On their site they dont have a k20z head just c heads. I read an article where k24z block used k20z head as it fit up no hassles at the head gasket. They had feared needing to do work for any other head mating due to stock k24z head being one side vtec cammed vs intake and exhaust
 

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I emailed a few days ago. Waiting on response. On their site they dont have a k20z head just c heads. I read an article where k24z block used k20z head as it fit up no hassles at the head gasket. They had feared needing to do work for any other head mating due to stock k24z head being one side vtec cammed vs intake and exhaust
link to article? I have physical proof of otherwise and in my research only one k24z block would actually bolt on without modifications. The oil galley drain in the rear of the engine is the only issue that is not a bolt on to make any k24z block accept a k20a/k20z head
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So a k20 head will require modifications pretty much regardless then? Ive read soo many articles i cant keep up at this point
 

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No, the block gets a minor modification. The timing cover for the crank sensor has a bolt on honda made solution. What block and what cylinder head are you actually running or planning on running?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have a kmiata swap kit. K24z3 block and head but i want to k20 head. I would need to buy a head which I intended to do via whoever built the head. Just have them do full head work woth cams and valvetrain etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Looks like a turbo set up is much easier with the single port exhaust head that motor has now. But k20 head looks like is a better choice for a future proof set up in terms of greater improvement from there. Of course less complex as well vs turbo. Then again i am looking at doing itb for the k20 head swap as well. I would not be tuning it though. I have been looking into who.can create base map for that and then drive to their locale for final tuning. As i know itb is more complex to tune from what iver read.
 

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Okay, here is what you will have to do.

This image is one of a k24z3/k24z7 block. AKA R40, the bare blocks are identical. In the lower left hand part of the picture you can see the oil galley drain is in a 12-6 o'clock position.

102046


Now, take a look at the k20z3 block (otherwise for our use case the same as any k20a or k24a blocks) and you will see the same oil galley is at a bit of an angle about 10-4 o'clock.

102047



What would need to be done is some filler needs to be placed in the block to make the hole a circle and the deck resurfaced to accommodate the k20z3 head gasket to insure a proper sealing surface for the oil galley drain.

A circle will work perfectly as that is what the head is equipped with, see the k20z3 head below. (lower right of picture).

102048


The next order of business is what engine management will be used? If you are using a newer ecu that would naturally have a R40 block then the stock crank sensor a timing case cover can be used. If you want to use a kpro or ktuner with say an rsx ecu then you need to source a K24Z1 timing cover, a standard crank trigger wheel and do not run the R40 crank spacer/washer.

If you were to run the whole k24z1 short block, no modifications are necessary as the oil galley is oriented the correct way as the earlier k20a/k24a blocks.

Using sock k24z3/z7 pistons with a k20 head is also problematic as variances in castings can cause piston to head contact and either modifying the area between the intake valve reliefs or using a thicker than stock head gasket is required. This is true on non machined deck surfaces and having them surfaced with only make the problem worse. Claying REQUIRED for that combination.

There are other things to consider as well since you are going into a miata chassis, such as the differences in the kits, the clearance for the exhaust ect. Detailed quite nicely on their website.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a hondata kpro, kmiata oil pan, front case kmiata, mounts etc...all the swap stuff oil pump and so on im good on. Biggest concern was what you presented for me. Thank you by the way. So k20 head i can use any really i just need the block modified and because of piston castings should change out the rotating assembly as well? If that is the case then i might as well bump compression up and do this as a itb, all motor k20 head 12.5 or maybe lower pistons and rods etc...? Who do you recommend to get this set up from? It seems google searches turn up only a handful. Im guessing many people here have used other shops that maybe vend on here?
 

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Where are you located? A local shop could potentially help you out.

A far as rotating assembly, I personally would swap it out since you are going with a built head, it would open up camshaft selection a bit more with the added valve relief. If you didnt buy a block yet, source a k24z1 out of a 07-09 CRV, less work, already has a 4 port exhaust head and still has the lower oil filter and the crankshaft position sensor with the correct trigger wheel/location. They are cheaper, as far as I know have the same crank and only a slight ding on compression (9.7 vs 11.0:1). Run that setup and when the time comes to build a head and have that done, then swap out rods and pistons. Any basic machine shop can do that work that you are after, however a shop that specializes in hondas, especially k series will have little tricks to make them perform that much better.
 
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