Question , Would I be able to use an ITB on a turbo build or does that only work with n/a , cuz I mainly see it on n/a buildsOh shoot man I’m sorry ! I totally forgot this that’s my bad. So for a basic turbo rundown I’ll try to keep it short and sweet as I can. Almost everything you need
Can be bought on eBay or through various sellers like speedfactory, tri state motor sports ,xenocron, 1320 performance etc.
-turbo manifold you more than likely want a sidewinder which is the popular choice and can be had from $500-1000+
-wastegates either two 38/44mm or one 60mm. Sidewinders gave boost management issues when the WG is too small (most no name/cheap wastegates work just fine on low to moderate boost levels
-the actual turbo you have many choices, depending on power and POWERBAND goal. Big turbos will make more peak power, but it will show up later in the band And all at once. Smaller turbos get you into the power quicker, but also taper off at the top end quicker. Most people use a gt35,gt45,6262, 6266 etc for turbo k20 and k24. For budget options look into rev9 turbos
-intercooler you will he wanting a same side outlet for applications with a oem style side feed manifold. For center feed intake manifolds you can use the traditional side in side out intercooler. Most use 2.5” piping and make 500 whp and beyond so that’s what I would suggest for a street car. Charge pipe diameter affects spool time.
—blow off valve —. You need one of these to relive the excess pressure built up in the charge piping from the turbo. many budget options are available that work well. Expect a couple hundred + for a name brand.
-fuel— you will need larger injectors and a fuel pump that flows more. DW 400, 255 walbro, aem 320, aeromotive 340, walbro 450 etc are all good options. If you use a large pump unless yoU upgrade the wiring to a relay setup you won’t get the proper flow from the pump and risk overheating your stock wiring.
injectors I would advise 1000cc from a reputable brand. ID,South Bay, DW,Bosch are just some to name. I like to have more injector than necessary as to not push the duty cycle too hard. Your oem fuel hardlines s are good to 500 or so hp, anything more requires at least a -6 or -8 feed line with a step smaller return.
-boost control - you need either a manual or electronic boost controller hooked up to the wastegate to control how much pressure the turbo builds up which will be determined at the time of your tune. Usually 8-15 psi is what you see on stock engines and that will make plenty
-exhaust - you will need to decide whether you want hood exit pipes or a full exhaust. Your wastegate s will have tubes coming off them which are the same as mini exhaust pipes to expel the excess gases and pressure built up , expect soot and fireballs from these do place them wisely , it is also an option to run them into the Downpipe for one single exit, I would prefer a full 3” exhaust myself to keep noise and fumes under control.
-tuning - you MUST have kpro or ktuner, aem etc some sort of engine management software to properly tune the newly boosted setup.
-clutch — with all the extra power you will need a stronger clutch. A stage 3 or 4 competition clutch is usually enough For 400 or so hp. Anything more and you will have increased difficulty at the pedal so that’s something to keep in mind. Oem flywheels help keep the turbo from spooling down as much during gear changes , as compared to a lightweight flywheel.
- I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff so here’s some
Videos and websites to look into
We dyno tune, manufacture and sell products by KTUNER, Hondata, Crome, Neptune RTP, S300, KPRO, FlashPRO, Honda, Acura. Our specialty is fuel management parts!www.xenocron.com