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Discussion Starter #21
Oh shoot man I’m sorry ! I totally forgot this that’s my bad. So for a basic turbo rundown I’ll try to keep it short and sweet as I can. Almost everything you need
Can be bought on eBay or through various sellers like speedfactory, tri state motor sports ,xenocron, 1320 performance etc.

-turbo manifold you more than likely want a sidewinder which is the popular choice and can be had from $500-1000+
-wastegates either two 38/44mm or one 60mm. Sidewinders gave boost management issues when the WG is too small (most no name/cheap wastegates work just fine on low to moderate boost levels
-the actual turbo you have many choices, depending on power and POWERBAND goal. Big turbos will make more peak power, but it will show up later in the band And all at once. Smaller turbos get you into the power quicker, but also taper off at the top end quicker. Most people use a gt35,gt45,6262, 6266 etc for turbo k20 and k24. For budget options look into rev9 turbos
-intercooler you will he wanting a same side outlet for applications with a oem style side feed manifold. For center feed intake manifolds you can use the traditional side in side out intercooler. Most use 2.5” piping and make 500 whp and beyond so that’s what I would suggest for a street car. Charge pipe diameter affects spool time.
—blow off valve —. You need one of these to relive the excess pressure built up in the charge piping from the turbo. many budget options are available that work well. Expect a couple hundred + for a name brand.
-fuel— you will need larger injectors and a fuel pump that flows more. DW 400, 255 walbro, aem 320, aeromotive 340, walbro 450 etc are all good options. If you use a large pump unless yoU upgrade the wiring to a relay setup you won’t get the proper flow from the pump and risk overheating your stock wiring.
injectors I would advise 1000cc from a reputable brand. ID,South Bay, DW,Bosch are just some to name. I like to have more injector than necessary as to not push the duty cycle too hard. Your oem fuel hardlines s are good to 500 or so hp, anything more requires at least a -6 or -8 feed line with a step smaller return.
-boost control - you need either a manual or electronic boost controller hooked up to the wastegate to control how much pressure the turbo builds up which will be determined at the time of your tune. Usually 8-15 psi is what you see on stock engines and that will make plenty
-exhaust - you will need to decide whether you want hood exit pipes or a full exhaust. Your wastegate s will have tubes coming off them which are the same as mini exhaust pipes to expel the excess gases and pressure built up , expect soot and fireballs from these do place them wisely , it is also an option to run them into the Downpipe for one single exit, I would prefer a full 3” exhaust myself to keep noise and fumes under control.
-tuning - you MUST have kpro or ktuner, aem etc some sort of engine management software to properly tune the newly boosted setup.
-clutch — with all the extra power you will need a stronger clutch. A stage 3 or 4 competition clutch is usually enough For 400 or so hp. Anything more and you will have increased difficulty at the pedal so that’s something to keep in mind. Oem flywheels help keep the turbo from spooling down as much during gear changes , as compared to a lightweight flywheel.
- I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff so here’s some
Videos and websites to look into







Question , Would I be able to use an ITB on a turbo build or does that only work with n/a , cuz I mainly see it on n/a builds
 

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NA only for individual throttle bodies. It “can” be done. But you would need to fabricate a plenum to go around them and then do things I have no clue about to get the map and tps etc to read properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The biggest worry with boost is making sure your fuel setup and your clutch can take it. The motor is just fine in stock form if it’s healthy. It’s a good idea to change the Tensioners out at least if you’re going to beat on it (oem tensioner is under $100 new) normal axles are fine if you don’t launch it like a gorilla every ten feet/pre-load the car when you do. The best place to start for a turbo build in my opinion is the manifold. Sidewinders are the go to , but I’m a fan of top mount setups as well. Your building blocks to a turbo kit are :
-turbo manifold
-turbo
-wastegate(s)
-blow off valve
-intercooler piping
-intercooler
-Downpipe /dump tubes for WG
-boost control
-big injectors /255 fuel pump or bigger
-oil feed and return line
-recommended*** oil pressure gauge to go with your boost gauge

That’s just a few things to start looking into.
Also on this reply you said Oem axels are fine if I don’t over do it , so just to confirm if I push the car in between 500-600 it should handle it right ? Or would you suggest buying some aftermarket ones & also what tires would you recommend for that power Im having a hard time trying to figure out tires
 

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Also on this reply you said Oem axels are fine if I don’t over do it , so just to confirm if I push the car in between 500-600 it should handle it right ? Or would you suggest buying some aftermarket ones & also what tires would you recommend for that power Im having a hard time trying to figure out tires
If you get 36mm hubs you can push the oem axles pretty far as long as you load the car down before doing anything crazy. Are you planning on running slicks or keeping it on a big street tire ?
 

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If you get 36mm hubs you can push the oem axles pretty far as long as you load the car down before doing anything crazy. Are you planning on running slicks or keeping it on a big street tire ?
For 500+ whp you are looking at minimium a 225-50-15 r888 or 235/60/15 BFG or even 245s. That is a lot of power for a fwd car on the street. You won’t have traction till 100mph.
 

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For 500+ whp you are looking at minimium a 225-50-15 r888 or 235/60/15 BFG or even 245s. That is a lot of power for a fwd car on the street. You won’t have traction till 100mph.
I would drive it around on wastegate pressure at 325-375whp and learn the car. Even that power level is more than enough if you can hook it up. Some 300whp cars run 13.3 and others 11.3 , it’s all in the traction you can achieve , the cars weight ,and the gearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
If you get 36mm hubs you can push the oem axles pretty far as long as you load the car down before doing anything crazy. Are you planning on running slicks or keeping it on a big street tire ?
If I’m using it for street wouldn’t it be better to go for big street tires or ??
 

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Discussion Starter #30
For 500+ whp you are looking at minimium a 225-50-15 r888 or 235/60/15 BFG or even 245s. That is a lot of power for a fwd car on the street. You won’t have traction till 100mph.
If I go awd would that traction problem go away ? Cuz that’s something I wanna do in the near future
 

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Awd is pretty spendy but yes that would make your 5-600hp almost dead hook depending on the condition of your viscous coupler. In my opinion for less money you could updgrade the fwd suspension and add traction control and be 9/10 there.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Awd is pretty spendy but yes that would make your 5-600hp almost dead hook depending on the condition of your viscous coupler. In my opinion for less money you could updgrade the fwd suspension and add traction control and be 9/10 there.
But wouldn’t adding traction control mean adding abs & power steering? Cuz I was planning on going a/out power steering
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Not that I’m aware of. There’s diy kits for rear wheel speed sensors, and hondata sells a traction control kit to be used with kpro
Hmmm i see , i think ima just push the car to around 300hp and then once I go awd , push it to around 500
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hmmm i see , i think ima just push the car to around 300hp and then once I go awd , push it to around 500
I feel like that’s the best way I could go rn since I’m currently rocking no abs and I don’t really wanna install it
 

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I feel like that’s the best way I could go rn since I’m currently rocking no abs and I don’t really wanna install it
You don’t need abs to have traction control work, the sensors just use the abs brackets. I’m sure fwd will be more than enough fun while you figure the car out.
 
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