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Alright so I’m planning on k swapping my 95 eg hatch but I’m planning on doing a k20/k24 set up , (k20a2 head w/a tsx block) now I wanna add aftermarket internals but I’m not sure what brands are good , also I’m leaning more towards a street rideable car & I’m aiming for 300hp or more , any recommendations????
 

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Alright so I’m planning on k swapping my 95 eg hatch but I’m planning on doing a k20/k24 set up , (k20a2 head w/a tsx block) now I wanna add aftermarket internals but I’m not sure what brands are good , also I’m leaning more towards a street rideable car & I’m aiming for 300hp or more , any recommendations????
 

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This video was great but I’m wondering, can I go higher ???, got any others for higher hp ? But for street racing just to make sure we’re on the same page
If you want more than 300 you would just need to bump compression up, bigger camshafts, race fuel. If it makes 300 on chump gas chances are you can get 350 or so out of it with m5 or closer to 400 on 50/50 nitro mix
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you want more than 300 you would just need to bump compression up, bigger camshafts, race fuel. If it makes 300 on chump gas chances are you can get 350 or so out of it with m5 or closer to 400 on 50/50 nitro mix
What about on a turbo build ? I can easily achieve higher hp correct & it’d cost less right ? Or just about the same as just going n/a ?
 

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What about on a turbo build ? I can easily achieve higher hp correct & it’d cost less right ? Or just about the same as just going n/a ?
Boost is cheaper, but more parts = more problems. You can make 500+ with a bone stock type s or tsx motor and a $2500 turbo kit but all your stuff needs to be 100 or you will have issues. It costs close to 2k for drag cartel cams, supertech valvetrain, head studs, and timing chain/tensioner shit you need to replace when you take the motor apart, but it will run forever if you do it right and don’t over rev it/run it hard on a bad tune. My best advice is to write down a build plan with all the specific parts you want to buy , and have them correlate to each other. Once you make a plan stick with it because it always will cost you more to change directions. You never get back what you put into these things so it’s important to spend the money once and spend it wisely 👍 ( a lesson I’ve had to learn a few times)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Boost is cheaper, but more parts = more problems. You can make 500+ with a bone stock type s or tsx motor and a $2500 turbo kit but all your stuff needs to be 100 or you will have issues. It costs close to 2k for drag cartel cams, supertech valvetrain, head studs, and timing chain/tensioner shit you need to replace when you take the motor apart, but it will run forever if you do it right and don’t over rev it/run it hard on a bad tune. My best advice is to write down a build plan with all the specific parts you want to buy , and have them correlate to each other. Once you make a plan stick with it because it always will cost you more to change directions. You never get back what you put into these things so it’s important to spend the money once and spend it wisely 👍 ( a lesson I’ve had to learn a few times)
Thank you for the advice you’ve been a big help honestly :) , you’re a great dude , & yeah I’ll just go turbo for my set up , I’m planning on slowly putting everything together ,so everything will be built with my best effort trying to perfect everything that I put on the engine & making sure there’s no errors in the car , I’m still looking for certain aftermarket parts that’ll be perfect for my build like now that you sold me on going turbo , new questions arise like how will I go turbo , which turbo should I buy , where should I look ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Boost is cheaper, but more parts = more problems. You can make 500+ with a bone stock type s or tsx motor and a $2500 turbo kit but all your stuff needs to be 100 or you will have issues. It costs close to 2k for drag cartel cams, supertech valvetrain, head studs, and timing chain/tensioner shit you need to replace when you take the motor apart, but it will run forever if you do it right and don’t over rev it/run it hard on a bad tune. My best advice is to write down a build plan with all the specific parts you want to buy , and have them correlate to each other. Once you make a plan stick with it because it always will cost you more to change directions. You never get back what you put into these things so it’s important to spend the money once and spend it wisely 👍 ( a lesson I’ve had to learn a few times)
& theres also questions like b/c I’ll go turbo I’ll need parts that’ll handle the extra power that the turbo gives , so it’s like where do I even look ? Or start ? I’m in need of guidance lol ,
 

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& theres also questions like b/c I’ll go turbo I’ll need parts that’ll handle the extra power that the turbo gives , so it’s like where do I even look ? Or start ? I’m in need of guidance lol ,
The biggest worry with boost is making sure your fuel setup and your clutch can take it. The motor is just fine in stock form if it’s healthy. It’s a good idea to change the Tensioners out at least if you’re going to beat on it (oem tensioner is under $100 new) normal axles are fine if you don’t launch it like a gorilla every ten feet/pre-load the car when you do. The best place to start for a turbo build in my opinion is the manifold. Sidewinders are the go to , but I’m a fan of top mount setups as well. Your building blocks to a turbo kit are :
-turbo manifold
-turbo
-wastegate(s)
-blow off valve
-intercooler piping
-intercooler
-Downpipe /dump tubes for WG
-boost control
-big injectors /255 fuel pump or bigger
-oil feed and return line
-recommended*** oil pressure gauge to go with your boost gauge

That’s just a few things to start looking into.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The biggest worry with boost is making sure your fuel setup and your clutch can take it. The motor is just fine in stock form if it’s healthy. It’s a good idea to change the Tensioners out at least if you’re going to beat on it (oem tensioner is under $100 new) normal axles are fine if you don’t launch it like a gorilla every ten feet/pre-load the car when you do. The best place to start for a turbo build in my opinion is the manifold. Sidewinders are the go to , but I’m a fan of top mount setups as well. Your building blocks to a turbo kit are :
-turbo manifold
-turbo
-wastegate(s)
-blow off valve
-intercooler piping
-intercooler
-Downpipe /dump tubes for WG
-boost control
-big injectors /255 fuel pump or bigger
-oil feed and return line
-recommended*** oil pressure gauge to go with your boost gauge

That’s just a few things to start looking into.
Do I have to worry about the certain fuel I have for the car , cuz I’ve seen videos and lil explanations on how people usually tune their car to hold like e85 fuel & other race fuel but would I need that ?? & also where would you recommend I buy my parts to go turbo ??
 

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Do I have to worry about the certain fuel I have for the car , cuz I’ve seen videos and lil explanations on how people usually tune their car to hold like e85 fuel & other race fuel but would I need that ?? & also where would you recommend I buy my parts to go turbo ??
Pump gas works just fine , but if you can do e85 it is a superior fuel. Not worth it unless it’s at the pump near you. I have none for an hour any direction so I’m going to be tuning my 24 on 92 oct
 

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Do I have to worry about the certain fuel I have for the car , cuz I’ve seen videos and lil explanations on how people usually tune their car to hold like e85 fuel & other race fuel but would I need that ?? & also where would you recommend I buy my parts to go turbo ??
I’ll go more into detail about turbo stuff after work lol
 

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Do I have to worry about the certain fuel I have for the car , cuz I’ve seen videos and lil explanations on how people usually tune their car to hold like e85 fuel & other race fuel but would I need that ?
Depending on what CR, boost, MAT (manifold air temperature = post intercooler) you have or can reach. You can run 1200 hp on 93 octane pump if your MAT is close to 10 °C, that's what is done in Quarter Mile setups: fuel and air cooling to lowest level. For an daily you should calculate around 15-20 °C above the air temperature for a first shut.

I have an knock likeliness calculation model, which is pretty precise. Name me all the stuff, I will calculate the ign. timing.
 

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Mr.KBuilt ? :(
Oh shoot man I’m sorry ! I totally forgot this that’s my bad. So for a basic turbo rundown I’ll try to keep it short and sweet as I can. Almost everything you need
Can be bought on eBay or through various sellers like speedfactory, tri state motor sports ,xenocron, 1320 performance etc.

-turbo manifold you more than likely want a sidewinder which is the popular choice and can be had from $500-1000+
-wastegates either two 38/44mm or one 60mm. Sidewinders gave boost management issues when the WG is too small (most no name/cheap wastegates work just fine on low to moderate boost levels
-the actual turbo you have many choices, depending on power and POWERBAND goal. Big turbos will make more peak power, but it will show up later in the band And all at once. Smaller turbos get you into the power quicker, but also taper off at the top end quicker. Most people use a gt35,gt45,6262, 6266 etc for turbo k20 and k24. For budget options look into rev9 turbos
-intercooler you will he wanting a same side outlet for applications with a oem style side feed manifold. For center feed intake manifolds you can use the traditional side in side out intercooler. Most use 2.5” piping and make 500 whp and beyond so that’s what I would suggest for a street car. Charge pipe diameter affects spool time.
—blow off valve —. You need one of these to relive the excess pressure built up in the charge piping from the turbo. many budget options are available that work well. Expect a couple hundred + for a name brand.
-fuel— you will need larger injectors and a fuel pump that flows more. DW 400, 255 walbro, aem 320, aeromotive 340, walbro 450 etc are all good options. If you use a large pump unless yoU upgrade the wiring to a relay setup you won’t get the proper flow from the pump and risk overheating your stock wiring.
injectors I would advise 1000cc from a reputable brand. ID,South Bay, DW,Bosch are just some to name. I like to have more injector than necessary as to not push the duty cycle too hard. Your oem fuel hardlines s are good to 500 or so hp, anything more requires at least a -6 or -8 feed line with a step smaller return.
-boost control - you need either a manual or electronic boost controller hooked up to the wastegate to control how much pressure the turbo builds up which will be determined at the time of your tune. Usually 8-15 psi is what you see on stock engines and that will make plenty
-exhaust - you will need to decide whether you want hood exit pipes or a full exhaust. Your wastegate s will have tubes coming off them which are the same as mini exhaust pipes to expel the excess gases and pressure built up , expect soot and fireballs from these do place them wisely , it is also an option to run them into the Downpipe for one single exit, I would prefer a full 3” exhaust myself to keep noise and fumes under control.
-tuning - you MUST have kpro or ktuner, aem etc some sort of engine management software to properly tune the newly boosted setup.
-clutch — with all the extra power you will need a stronger clutch. A stage 3 or 4 competition clutch is usually enough For 400 or so hp. Anything more and you will have increased difficulty at the pedal so that’s something to keep in mind. Oem flywheels help keep the turbo from spooling down as much during gear changes , as compared to a lightweight flywheel.
- I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff so here’s some
Videos and websites to look into







 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh shoot man I’m sorry ! I totally forgot this that’s my bad. So for a basic turbo rundown I’ll try to keep it short and sweet as I can. Almost everything you need
Can be bought on eBay or through various sellers like speedfactory, tri state motor sports ,xenocron, 1320 performance etc.

-turbo manifold you more than likely want a sidewinder which is the popular choice and can be had from $500-1000+
-wastegates either two 38/44mm or one 60mm. Sidewinders gave boost management issues when the WG is too small (most no name/cheap wastegates work just fine on low to moderate boost levels
-the actual turbo you have many choices, depending on power and POWERBAND goal. Big turbos will make more peak power, but it will show up later in the band And all at once. Smaller turbos get you into the power quicker, but also taper off at the top end quicker. Most people use a gt35,gt45,6262, 6266 etc for turbo k20 and k24. For budget options look into rev9 turbos
-intercooler you will he wanting a same side outlet for applications with a oem style side feed manifold. For center feed intake manifolds you can use the traditional side in side out intercooler. Most use 2.5” piping and make 500 whp and beyond so that’s what I would suggest for a street car. Charge pipe diameter affects spool time.
—blow off valve —. You need one of these to relive the excess pressure built up in the charge piping from the turbo. many budget options are available that work well. Expect a couple hundred + for a name brand.
-fuel— you will need larger injectors and a fuel pump that flows more. DW 400, 255 walbro, aem 320, aeromotive 340, walbro 450 etc are all good options. If you use a large pump unless yoU upgrade the wiring to a relay setup you won’t get the proper flow from the pump and risk overheating your stock wiring.
injectors I would advise 1000cc from a reputable brand. ID,South Bay, DW,Bosch are just some to name. I like to have more injector than necessary as to not push the duty cycle too hard. Your oem fuel hardlines s are good to 500 or so hp, anything more requires at least a -6 or -8 feed line with a step smaller return.
-boost control - you need either a manual or electronic boost controller hooked up to the wastegate to control how much pressure the turbo builds up which will be determined at the time of your tune. Usually 8-15 psi is what you see on stock engines and that will make plenty
-exhaust - you will need to decide whether you want hood exit pipes or a full exhaust. Your wastegate s will have tubes coming off them which are the same as mini exhaust pipes to expel the excess gases and pressure built up , expect soot and fireballs from these do place them wisely , it is also an option to run them into the Downpipe for one single exit, I would prefer a full 3” exhaust myself to keep noise and fumes under control.
-tuning - you MUST have kpro or ktuner, aem etc some sort of engine management software to properly tune the newly boosted setup.
-clutch — with all the extra power you will need a stronger clutch. A stage 3 or 4 competition clutch is usually enough For 400 or so hp. Anything more and you will have increased difficulty at the pedal so that’s something to keep in mind. Oem flywheels help keep the turbo from spooling down as much during gear changes , as compared to a lightweight flywheel.
- I’m sure I’m forgetting stuff so here’s some
Videos and websites to look into







Another question that’s rattling my mind rn , okay so is it necessary to buy a ps/ac eliminating kit or can I just use a smaller serpentine belt ??
 
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