My K24a2...

25397 Views 256 Replies 39 Participants Last post by jon v, Nov 30, 2005

jon v

Discussion Starter · Mar 4, 2005

3

So i just recieved my motor and I had a few questions. I noticed that it is missing a few things. I didn't have time to really sit down and check it out, but I did snap a few pictures. So maybe you guys can help me out a little.
Just post up anything that you can notice is missing...

Also in this first picture can anyone tell me what type of tranny may have been attached to this motor? (Auto or manual)

I know I didn't get my P/S pump which I was hoping for, but it seems that both wiring harness are there... I also was hoping to get the other section of the exhaust mani so i could run the OEM setup for a little while, so i can save for a nice header...

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nikos

· #4 · Mar 4, 2005

now that is the mechanic

jon looks like this

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nikos

· #10 · Mar 4, 2005

Thanks for sharing all this info. It is not as simple as the sellers make it sound. That is for sure... I just don't know what is needed exactly.

nikos

· #14 · Mar 4, 2005

HOTWHEELZ has done the TSX swap in his RSX.. He is for sure the man to talk yo. I will redirect him in here.

nikos

· #20 · Mar 4, 2005

You will need the Rsx type S engine harness. The pnp harness is for the dash to connect the ecu with the cluster.

nikos

· #33 · Mar 8, 2005

There is no need for the subframe... on his car... The only car that needs a subrame is the civic 2001+ Em1 etc...

The hasport/hybrid racing mounts will work with a type s or ep3 tranny.

nikos

· #107 · Apr 7, 2005

I had some discussion of the crank pulley with some people on clubrsx..

Here's some of the things they do

have broken ratchets and extensions on crank pulleys before. There is really only one sure-fire way to do it. Make sure you use 1/2" hardware and if you do use a cheater bar, make sure that it is made from a material that will withstand some serious abuse. I have found that I can get it done with everything I have and an 18" breaker. I mean I put all of what I had into it and fell down when I got it loose.

I found a 24" breaker in Snap-On's catalog. Before I go back into another motor, I might order that.

I do recommend using 1/2" drive only on this bolt, and impact grade sockets and extensions.

removed the bolt from the crank pulley by starting the motor with the 199 ratchet on it

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nikos

· #121 · Apr 12, 2005 (Edited)

oops

nikos

· #123 · Apr 12, 2005

that is our guess but time will tell. Having the mount companies make the 2 additional mounts needed would be no problem, I assume.

nikos

· #125 · Apr 12, 2005

I was told by hasport that 2 mounts would be needed to mount it correctly... say in an EK or EG.. That is 2 mounts instead of the single tranny mount that is used now.

nikos

· #130 · Apr 13, 2005

I bet it does look mean. Can't wait to hear and see results.

nikos

· #138 · Apr 14, 2005 (Edited)

2

jon v said:
What chassis are you putting this in?

here's his car

yes, it has a K

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nikos

· #148 · Apr 21, 2005

who was that? (th dick?)

nikos

· #164 · Apr 25, 2005

www.hondapartsource.com has them for like $40

nikos

· #174 · Apr 30, 2005

HE dynoed

232 whp and 180 torque with the TSX block, k20a head and K pro with dtr 4-2-1 header

nikos

· #177 · May 1, 2005

Read about it here

http://www.theksource.com/news/04/1992-civic-k24a2-tsx-motor-with-k20a-r-head-dyno-results/

He used a stock type r head with everything stock....

but the tsx head is pretty similar, so... a tsx head with type r cams would produce similar results...

My guess is that a tsx head will produce less top end, more torque with type r cams in the TSX head.

The reason is simple. The only thing that makes a difference between 2 the heads are the intake ports.

Thanks to HOTWHEELZ, here's a pic

Type s and type r bare heads are the same so the TSX head can be ported to match the bigger type r ports... where the type r cannot go smaller in size....

Therefore somewhere between the size of the stock TSX and stock type r, there is certain size that will produce the best results with different cams on that motor.
So, there is really no need to be buying type s heads and getting rid of your tsx heads.

Nikos

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nikos

· #182 · May 2, 2005

Honda Part # 11910-PPA-000

nikos

· #187 · May 3, 2005

ep3 pulley

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nikos

· #189 · May 3, 2005

dre2004 said:
sorry for the repost. this is what i ordered. also got bearings and extra bolts for tranny, alt, starter, flywheel, clutch, pulley, engine mount bracket for crv

Product # Description Quantity Unit Price Total Price
95701-08045-08 BOLT, FLANGE (8X45) 3 $0.73 $2.19
90034-689-000 BOLT, TWELVE POINT (8MM) 6 $3.40 $20.40
95701-12085-08 BOLT, FLANGE (12X85) 1 $1.35 $1.35
95701-12060-08 BOLT, FLANGE (12X60) 4 $0.97 $3.88
31185-PCX-003 COVER, BEARING 1 $5.14 $5.14
11910-PPA-000 BRACKET, ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING 1 $23.41 $23.41
90011-PNA-B00 BOLT (12MM) 8 $2.61 $20.88
90025-PNA-000 BOLT, SPECIAL (8X105) 1 $2.61 $2.61
90027-PND-A00 BOLT, SPECIAL (10X50) 1 $2.12 $2.12
91005-PPS-003 BEARING, BALL (40X80X18) 2 $27.23 $54.46
31175-PRA-000 BRACKET, IDLE PULLEY 1 $39.96 $39.96
31190-PRA-000 PULLEY, IDLE 1 $22.61 $22.61
90031-PRA-000 BOLT, SPECIAL FLANGE (10X25) 1 $1.48 $1.48
Subtotal: $200.49
Shipping Charge [Shipping Charge may vary with package size / weight]:
$20.05
Handling Charge: $2.95
Sales Tax: $0.00
Total Order : $223.49

that is why I started this website, thanks.

Nikos

nikos

· #196 · May 6, 2005 (Edited)

3

ok so on the tsx motor... you have something like this when you use a type s manilfold

and so you can welded it shut...

like this

or plug it

What about the other port.. the EGR? port.. nothing goes through that hole right?

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nikos

· #201 · May 6, 2005

very simple...

Instead of plugging the thermostat housing like this

you just run the hose to the plug. Read this on ephatch.com

If you see the brass pipe fitting in the center of the pic, that is my fix. I had a machine shop thread the hole for the coolant port and they also plugged the other hole (which is used for the egr system and is not needed)

I went to ACE Hardware and bought a 90 degree bend male & female pipe fitting for the 3/8" threaded hole in the head. Put the male side into the head. Then got a 3/8" straight male pipe fitting and hose clamped the tstat hose to it and screwed that into the female part of the 90 degree one coming out of the head. The hose coming off of the bottom goes into the thermostat like it did before.

As for the sensor that originally screwed into the top of the water port, I removed it. I also had 2 hoses connected to the sensor....1 going to the intake mani and 1 going to my aem intake....so I just removed the sensor from the motor all together and ran 1 hose from the intake mani to the aem intake.

This fix cost me $20 at the machine shop and $4 at ACE. Work just fine and the 2 things that I bypassed in the motor (egr port & sensor) where both for emissions purposes to the best of my knowledge, so I will be fine with out them.

Car runs great, No leaks and I havent thrown one error code yet !!!

The other port on the right he plugged is already blocked from the factory so no need for that one.

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