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Discussion Starter #1
its just a copy and paste from where i started to post off 7thgenhonda.com.

any input and info is always welcome. so far i have to say its a blast to swap this thing and you learn a dam lot quickly.

Well the time has finally come for me to start building up a k motor and putting it into my em2.

parts i have so far:
-02 k20a2 motor and transmission
-rsx-s sub frame
-Mishimoto radiator and fan
-Hybrid-Racing wiring conversion
-Hasport motor mounts (ordered)
-Hybrid-Racing fuel rail
-Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
-Aeromotive fuel filter
-Buddy Club racing header
-Buddy Club short shifter
-dc5 shift knob
-dc5 valve cover
-gasket kit oem
-A ton of Honda oem screws, rings, etc
-92-95 civic p/s tank
-92-95 civic throttle cable
-ep3 pedals
-rsx-s clutch master cylinder

still to come...a lot of parts


11-14-08
as of now i have received my motor. After getting some help from some friends (including eddiechaps off this site) to help me move this motor into my house, I started to clean up the motor(2 key words to anyone trying this without a motor lift...."moving men" they work... really they do). I ordered some oem pieces from Acura and i'm waiting on a few more parts to continue the build. As of now i took some of the brackets (throttle cable and shifter cables) and restored them to a much cleaner condition than they were originally in.









Before sanding


after sanding


after some heat resistant paint (stain black)




I also did a test fit with the fuel rail, header, and valve cover. im waiting an some o rings for the injectors to change and some Honda ultra flange 2 to finish them up.








more to come in the upcoming days!



update 11-15-08

Today the power steering pulley got cleaned up from the shitty condition it was in before. to do this i used some lemons and a Brillo pad. Then i reinstalled and also removed the serpentine belt and tomorrow ill be getting new plugs, belt and some other accessories from the store.






and here are some better shots of the header for people who were interested.





ok today i removed the alternator and begun to clean out the pieces on it. after cleaning it up i added a fresh coat of heat resistant paint. i ended up ripping up some paper towel pieces and filled in the vent holes to stop the coils from being painted. then removed them by using a tiny screw driver. now only thing left is to have it tested to make sure it works tomorrow. i will also be picking up new serpentine belt, spark plugs, and my parts from Acura.







So i just went and painted the power steering pulley. i didnt like the overall look so i did a base coat of the flat black and then added some very light coat of some paint in magnesium metallic.





update 11-21-08

today i went over to my acura dealer to pick up all the parts that i ordered. mostly nuts, bolts, o rings, oil filter, and ultra flange sealer. Shocking when i got home my hasport motor mounts came in so i had a fun day of fitting and working on the motor. I added the ultra flange to the valve cover gasket to ensure a proper fit and no leaks. then did the spark plug change to NGK laser iridium. I installed the power steering pump which i had painted black a few days prior and installed the alternator. Using the Haynes manual i got he proper torque specs for the bolts. then finally i re installed the carbon top piece with the bolts i painted flat black to ensure a cleaner look. so tomorrow i have a few more small things to do mostly with the o rings on the injectors and installing a new belt but its just about good to be dropped in. all i need a few minor things to have this ready to drop in.














*****update*****11-22-08

ok so today i took a little time to finally finish the fuel injectors. whenever you remove the injectors its always recommended to replace all the o rings to ensure no leaks later on. So i took apart the fuel rail and injectors,then put on the new o rings. you can tell in one of the shots how dirty the o rings really were with build up which turned it nearly black. Now to reinstall i just slid the o rings on and didnt really have any problems on sliding the injectors abck on. With the removal i did encounter one issue of the injector sprayer cap being stuck in the intake manifold and i made a slight crack in it trying to remove it from the manifold. After that i painted the rail nuts and tightened it all together. so now one more piece down. t minus 2 weeks for the swap!!!











i also added shots of the transmission motor mount which is heavier and larger in size than the OEM piece it replaces.




 

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Discussion Starter #2
haha ok. i was going to upload last night but dozed off early.

Well summit came in time and dropped off all my fuel fittings and lines i needed as well as corsport the other day with my wideband and shifter bushings. I also got in my slave cylinder and the guy threw in another clutch master cylinder al wired up already. saved me the time so i just bolted that up to the motor.

yesterday i sorta got anxious and went off on stripping the interior and front bumper and headlights. Then i went and removed the auto shifter and put in the buddy club short shifter which fits in perfect, not problems at all.

and a special thanks to pete who saved my ass and dropped off his motor lift for me to use and make this much easier than having some people lift the motor by hand. which i will never do again and eddie can agree with me on that scenerio, lol.

Today i got the hood off, took out the battery, removed my b/c voltage stabilizer, intake, all ground wires, battery plate, and a few other things here and there. next up is draining the fluids.















 

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ok another update before we go and pull the motor out. we discharged the ac lines and have the car just about there. eddie and i were the only ones to work on the car today so for 2 people and a few hours we got far IMO.

so far:
-removed body panels (hood, bumper, headlights)
-removed battery and ground wires
-removed voltage stabilizer
-took off the intake
-removed exhaust and test pipe
-took off strut bar
-removed wheels
-took off axles
-removed front suspension
-discharge the ac lines
-removed p/s lines
-drained the oil

still a little more to go today but we plan on getting the motor out.

* just a side not im jinxed with snow whenever i do a big DIY






and a special thanks for everyone bailing, lol.
 

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ok here is todays update....

The snow storm the day before left its damage and set us off to a slow start. First we had to remove all the snow and tarps to just look over how far we got in a few hours. There was a bonus though. A case of beer was left in my car overnight and bam!.... we got the blue mountains hahah so that was for later. From there we started to rip into the car and did the following
-removed the alternator
-took off the power steering pump
-removed the 2 belts
-disconnected all the ac lines from condenser

Then we got to the radiator. So far it was fairly easy to take the car apart. It took a min or 2 to locate all the bolts but no problems yet except for the cold weather. The radiator was extremely simple. We drained the fluid from the plug under the car and started to pull out all the plastic tubes and lines from the motor. This took us like 5 min and a knife. After that we pulled out the set up and set it to the side for later.

Were right there to pull the motor and went for the motor mounts... hooked up the lift to the car and got a little tension on the motor. To lift the motor we used the bracket on the transmission and the bolt for the alternator connected to the driver side motor mount. The motor mounts got us extremely nervious because we got all 4 off in 15 min ....no joke. So we thought there was bound to be a serious problem to delay us later on. A breaker bar and one quick turn and the motor mounts were off. We pulled each one off and set them to the side with all the bolts.

Some maneovering later we were right there to pull the motor up. We had to loosen the ABS box to fit the motor through, and twist the motor since the auto was under the frame on the passenger side. But we got a small hickup there. The front bracket on the sub frame had caught the motor and wouldnt let us twist it loose and around the frame. With the help of my dremel and 2 bits we cut and hammered over the bracket for the front motor mount closest to the tranny. After that it was cake walk.....pulled the motor up and set it to the side and removed the sub frame. Those bolts too were not stubborn and let us have our way with them.

As of now my car is empty in front with nothing in it. tomorrow after class i will continue and set up mostly everything and dropping in the motor hopefully soon.

A big thanks to eddie and anthony who helped out today and eddie for saturday as well.

total hours on the tear down 11hours and F&^#ing cold weather. The winds today were really bad and did slow us down a lot. if it was warmer i wouldnt put a doubt to us having in the motor already.

And no garage is a pain in the ass but it does make this more of a fun challenge and an experience. The weather just added to the challenge but if no one is up for having a little fun building outside in the winter then why do anything with cars. Its no fun to mope around for half a year cause its too cold. Just looking at a motor waiting to finally have some decent power. I say forget weather and a garage and any shop doing your work. some friends a few drinks and some good times make this build well worth it.

thanks to everyone on here for there support. We love repping 7thgen with our harcore devotion to powering a k motor in a EM2 in decmeber while its snowing.

and to all the whores in here yeah there are a few k swapped cars that are turbo and more many others who plan to down the road. i know i have some plans her her as i go along. for now its just getting her a new powerplant and a good clean start.


















 

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Guys, Just wondering doing all these jobs on the driveway, I see no brick set behind the rear tires. hand brake is not enough. it's bit dangerous.... especially you are working on a slope driveway......:wow:

From what I see, everything is going right. keep up the good work. And set that brick behind the rear tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i didnt have a block set but i did wedge wood under each wheel just like a block does. its hard to tell in the photos.
 

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oh good. my bad.

keep up the good work. :up:

P.S. really like to see how you do your fuel system. Mind give a few tips?:)
 

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By the way, Checked your Mod's list on the top. Just like to give you an add on for safety. change the brake booster and Master Cy to DC5 or RSX-S's. C7's booster is not enough for K20's.
 

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cool looks good. i'm finishing up the minor details on my k swap. If you have any ? 's ask em everything is still fresh in my mind :cool:
 

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Good thread very detailed...i had to spray my starter and brackets on the throttle body black aswell. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah there have been some more updates:

ok so today i spent about an hour or so on the motor today. im stuck writing papers for finals now so tomorrow i should get some more done.

i started by working on the sub frame. the type s sub frame is very similar to the em2 frame and matched nearly perfect with the bolt patterns. there was a little contact up front with the frame but tomorrow im going to see if i can adjust it to fit without cutting anything. A key tip to anyone putting a sub frame on solo is to use the oem honda jacks. lift each side up and raise as high as you can then just adjust and match up to each hole. got the frame on in less than 10 min. Now tomorrow im just going to mount the rear motor mount.



type s sub frame V.......................................civic sub frame V



Then i went into the bay and installed the motor mount brackets. they fit perfect in each spot. i just had a slight issue with the passenger bracket but by installing loosely the one closest to the firewall to the one closest to the front bumper and then tighten worked out well. the mounting hole closest to the firewall i put a washer behind since the Hasport kit had the other 2 holes reinforced to fit flush to the fame and i saw a slight gap on that hole.

On the driver side bracket the abs bracket will interfere with the motor mount on the transmission being installed.... so cutting it down will be required. i also adjusted the grounding spot right next to the bracket.. so the wires do not interfere with the bracket and the grounds arent pinched or anything.

ill be taking more photos tomorrow. but right now tomorrow i will be trimming the abs bracket, bolt the abs back in place, adjust the sub frame, install rear motor mount, install radiator and wash down the engine bay.




ok well today went well and i got a lot done.

I started out with the issue i had with the sub frame hitting the chassis. Took me a few minutes to trim down a good inch or so area but after wards it fit right in flush and no problems at all. The i bolted in the rear motor mount for the swap. Im installing it now cause with my measurements it will be a tight fit to drop the swap in with this on the motor. Im doing that to play it safe and i don't mind bolting the mount to the motor later on. With the hasport kit i had one issue. The bolts and washers were scarce and only included some not all. So i used the oem honda/acura bolts for the rear mount and the driver side bracket. Also its a good idea to buy some extra washers for this cause you can never have too many spares in case.

Cutting the bracket for the ABS unit was next. the hasport mounting bracket covers over the spot for the bracket but with a dremel i just cut it off and mounted the ABS in the 2 existing points for it.

The radiator was my next step to get to dropping the motor in. I took the original rubber bottom pieces for the oem radiator and put them on the mishimoto radiator. to get the rsx-s radiator to fit the side walls around the radiator had to be trimmed. basically where the a/c condenser brackets are there is a little curve in the metal that had to be cut. After that the radiator fit in there. The top brackets though were a problem. They will not fit to the oem housing and are off by less than an inch. The way i plan on solving this is by making a new hole where the brackets fit. The fan i also put in temporarily for now. I just want to make sure on placement and finalize it after the motor is in and the hoses are put on.

With the car just about ready for the swap i sprayed engine cleaner and degreaser in the bay. after letting it sit i scrubbed it down and added more and washed out with a hose. after spraying it down i dried the engine with a rag and i really saw an improvement.

The last main thing i did was work on the clutch pedal. I drilled out the oem holes Honda marks on the firewall. Then slid the clutch master cylinder in the hole and went to put the pedal in. Now the si pedals can in fact fit but the bracket has to be trimmed. the pedal has 2 main pieces of metal and the top piece is too high to fit where the holes are. so this is where I am. Tomorrow im going to cut the metal off and install the pedal along with the shift cables. Then clean out the interior and drop the motor in.


oh and some shots of my hood yesterday. there was some bad oxidation that many members on here saw. after 15-30 min of a buffer and some wax this is how it looks.





the pedal and the piece that has to be cut





some of the shots suck but its from my camera phone.







 

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Discussion Starter #15
those are my updates i loaded to the other forum im part of. tomorrow i will have the motor in the car.

thanks again for all the feedback and support.
 

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wow man looks like its coming along nicely so far. i have an 01 civic and its auto aswell .. the dam tranny went out on me so i decided to go kswap lol but yeah im deff probly gonna have ????s bout the swap if ne one can help thx
 

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just noticed you got 70a urethane for your mounts.......viiiiiiibbbbbrrrraaaatttttoooorrrr.......
 
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