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At long last my build is going to start (Those that know me knew I had medical problems with my youngest son, that's done and over with now) I have the K24 block (CRV) and girdle. I am going to transfer my K20a2 head, pan and oil pump over to the K24 but I had some questions, here is what I am probably going to do for the setup:

K24 block
Type S Oil Pump and pan
Type S head
TSX crank with RSX crank pulley
11.0:1 pistons (not sure who to use yet, suggestions?)
Rods (not sure yet either)
Clutch (got a CM clutch sitting around brand new)
ASP header and exhaust
RBC Manifold
Cams (secret)
injen cai with v stack.

My biggest questions are:

In terms of long term reliability (chunky you can chime on this if you want) what pistons and rods have shown the least amount of wear and excessive friction?

Oil squirters - i dont remember if the TSX had them (dont think they did) but should I do the whole wristpin oiling or just get the installed in the block and get an oil cooler from a k20a2 on it?

Everything else I know but if anyone has tips or tricks they would be appreciated.
 

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At long last my build is going to start (Those that know me knew I had medical problems with my youngest son, that's done and over with now) I have the K24 block (CRV) and girdle. I am going to transfer my K20a2 head, pan and oil pump over to the K24 but I had some questions, here is what I am probably going to do for the setup:

K24 block
Type S Oil Pump and pan
Type S head
TSX crank with RSX crank pulley
11.0:1 pistons (not sure who to use yet, suggestions?)
Rods (not sure yet either)
Clutch (got a CM clutch sitting around brand new)
ASP header and exhaust
RBC Manifold
Cams (secret)
injen cai with v stack.

My biggest questions are:

In terms of long term reliability (chunky you can chime on this if you want) what pistons and rods have shown the least amount of wear and excessive friction?

Oil squirters - i dont remember if the TSX had them (dont think they did) but should I do the whole wristpin oiling or just get the installed in the block and get an oil cooler from a k20a2 on it?

Everything else I know but if anyone has tips or tricks they would be appreciated.
The long term wear will be determined by the hone, rings, and skirt design, as well as the weight of the rod/piston combo. You can get a custom piston and ring set that will alleviate the rate of wear a lil bit. Are you planning on going supercharger ontop later on? Get higher comp pistons man :)
The TSX block has the oil spuirters, but you will not want to use them if using forged pistons, so you are good with your CRV block.
You mentioned the oil cooler, do you have the K20A2 water pump and plumbing?

Glad to see you finally getting this one going. Also, happy to hear about your son :up:
 

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There is several ways around adding the typeS oil cooler WITHOUT going to a K20A2 coolant passageway and water pump.

directly under the alternator there is a bung(not presently drilled out) for a nipple/pipe(drill and add a nipple). Then just route a hose from there back to the cooler and add the S2k coolant nipple to the block to source the coolant.
 

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Talon, I think I remember seeing pics of that in a build thread in the Engine section. Gonna look for it. What do you think about the pros and cons of using the oem oil cooler vs aftermarket vs none?
 

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the new tsx uses a 11.0:1 pistons cant remember the part number but those will be a good choice
 

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as far as staying very reliable with pistons at only 11.0:1, I'd stay with OEM and go with TSX pistons. Maybe with some light weight aftermarket rods and some WPC treated bearings. That would reduce the co-efficient of friction with the bearings and pumping loses with the reduction in weight.
 

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i would say get some custom pistons to the specs you want. that would be your best bet for less wear.
also is this a daily driver?
and if i were you i would go with the s2k modified oil pump. i know a couple of people who have it and they say it works really good.
good luck on build
 

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as far as staying very reliable with pistons at only 11.0:1, I'd stay with OEM and go with TSX pistons. Maybe with some light weight aftermarket rods and some WPC treated bearings. That would reduce the co-efficient of friction with the bearings and pumping loses with the reduction in weight.
stick with the OEM honda parts,. for higher compression jus shave the block and he head down. use a K20a intake cam and TSX exhaust cam... going with RBC header, port and polish and then port match it to the head
 

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stick with the OEM honda parts,. for higher compression jus shave the block and he head down. use a K20a intake cam and TSX exhaust cam... going with RBC header, port and polish and then port match it to the head
Ok, and piston to valve clearance?
Do things right, do them once.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Signal - thanks, I'm glad to be starting this soon as well. I wanted to stick with 11.0:1 since our best gas brand here in Missouri is Shell 91. We have BP 93 but I would have to drive an hour for that. No, this engine will strictly be NA, if I can get away with 11.5:1 I would do it but fuel quality always sucks during winter, not sure if shell does that too but I will have to research that. Why is using oil squirters bad with forged internals?

talon - if you have a thread on that information please let me know so I can research that so I can hopefully keep all my amenities like AC and such. But I also can re-use my stuff from my k20a2 as well, but this bung is interesting.

civic - yes the car is a DD. I'm trying to re-use parts from my A2 (whatever I can)
 

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Capping the squirters will keep oil pressure up. I have not seen the oem pistons after use without the squirters, but most builders do not recommend capping them with stock pistons.
The info talon has discovered regarding the 06 TSX crank balance is very interesting. I am sure he will chime in, but I would use it over the other versions.
Have you thought of water or meth injection so you can up the compression?

See the last link in the Oil section in the FAQ for the oil cooler idea Talon is talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
but so with aftermarket pistons and rods, they really arent needed.

correct, I was already planning on using on 05-06 TSX crank.

I HAVE thought about water or meth, Razathorn is using it on his SC RSX and its awesome. But I think that I might just stick with 11.0:1 unless I know for a 100% fact that 91 is ok for 11.5:1.
 

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Talk with Stefan about it. He can set you up with a nice intake mani/head/header package that will work with those cams of yours. With the cam specs you can get your pistons made. Your compression static does not matter, running a larger cam and VTC tuning will lower you dynamic compression in the areas you would most likely see det.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Works for me on that, i'm still going to research the oil squirters though because if you look at companies like Hytech, even with there big K24 blocks they still use oil squirters to take care of the pistons and wrist pins.
 

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Works for me on that, i'm still going to research the oil squirters though because if you look at companies like Hytech, even with there big K24 blocks they still use oil squirters to take care of the pistons and wrist pins.
Maybe they modify them a lil bit?
If you are getting drilled rods I would just cap them.
Ninja edit #2: How high do you want to spin it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok you lost me on that one (been away from reading this place for a while) drilled rods?

I talk to John quite a bit sometimes so I can check with him if they modify them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok, sorry about that, yes I know what that is. Is that an option lots of rod companies do?
 
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