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16 Posts
Hi everyone.
I am new to the forum and I am based in the Republic of Ireland.
I have a 1999 6 speed Mazda MX5 NB that I will be K swapping with a JDM K24.
So far the parts I have gathered are -
Car - Non-runner but mint body work (A hard find in Ireland as we use a lot of salt on the roads and the MX5's generally turn to mush)
Engine - JDM K24. Guy imports container loads of them here and I bought one. I had wanted a k24z as the exhaust packaging is much neater and would have loved to use the Napp motorsport manifold, but the Z is impossible to find in Ireland. In general, here it's probably unusual for breakers yards to have engines like that ( K24a or k24z ect ) We have right emissions laws and cars over 2L have a high road tax (1200 euro a year for a 2.2L (that's before yearly road safety test and insurance) . Also, petrol has been historically expensive in Ireland. (Currently around the 2 euro a liter mark) .
Swap parts - I have elements from the K Power swap kit
Honed Development subframe - as my car is RHD it means a couple of things
1- steering elements are in an awkward spot for exhaust clearance and the standard subframe
would not work so that calls for a tubular subframe
2- Certain mounting points that come on the k power tubular will not work for and it would require fab work
3- Honed Development in Australia are making a Tubular subframe that will work with right hand drive conversions
and I have bought one of the first batch. there subframe uses s2000 rubber mounts and custom brackets.
Note - If you are doing this swap the K power subframe will work too if you want to fabricate your own mounts, I'm just trying to make things as bolt on as possible for this early stage of the project.
This I still need to get
Turbo - My plan is here for G30-660 , Either a genuine Garret unit or a pulsar copy. I need advice on the fine detail here from you guys, but I might start a thread in the turbo section (after I've done a deep search). I'm unsure on the turbine housing size ect.
ECU - In an ideal world I want the following from an ECU
Control of engine
control of DBW
Control of traction control using speed sensors.
control of launch control (because why not).
Control of cruise control.
ability to use CAN Dash.
Having no experience in this line of work I can only go off what I see online and at the moment the Haltech elite 1500 is standing out to me as a front runner. I want to wire the car myself and they sell a terminated (ecu side) loom that I think I can manage.
Again, I need advice on the ECU side of things as I understand there are many ways to skin this cat. Maybe a wire in loom is a crazy idea and there are options better suited using existing looms ect.
Anyways all advice is welcome.
Gav.
I am new to the forum and I am based in the Republic of Ireland.
I have a 1999 6 speed Mazda MX5 NB that I will be K swapping with a JDM K24.
So far the parts I have gathered are -
Car - Non-runner but mint body work (A hard find in Ireland as we use a lot of salt on the roads and the MX5's generally turn to mush)
Engine - JDM K24. Guy imports container loads of them here and I bought one. I had wanted a k24z as the exhaust packaging is much neater and would have loved to use the Napp motorsport manifold, but the Z is impossible to find in Ireland. In general, here it's probably unusual for breakers yards to have engines like that ( K24a or k24z ect ) We have right emissions laws and cars over 2L have a high road tax (1200 euro a year for a 2.2L (that's before yearly road safety test and insurance) . Also, petrol has been historically expensive in Ireland. (Currently around the 2 euro a liter mark) .
Swap parts - I have elements from the K Power swap kit
- engine/gearbox adapter plate and flywheel
- Inlet manifold
- DBW Throttle body and plate
- K power oil pan and oil pump to suit.
- Rear upper coolant neck
- 50degree vtc gear
- full refresh kit ect
Honed Development subframe - as my car is RHD it means a couple of things
1- steering elements are in an awkward spot for exhaust clearance and the standard subframe
would not work so that calls for a tubular subframe
2- Certain mounting points that come on the k power tubular will not work for and it would require fab work
3- Honed Development in Australia are making a Tubular subframe that will work with right hand drive conversions
and I have bought one of the first batch. there subframe uses s2000 rubber mounts and custom brackets.
Note - If you are doing this swap the K power subframe will work too if you want to fabricate your own mounts, I'm just trying to make things as bolt on as possible for this early stage of the project.
This I still need to get
Turbo - My plan is here for G30-660 , Either a genuine Garret unit or a pulsar copy. I need advice on the fine detail here from you guys, but I might start a thread in the turbo section (after I've done a deep search). I'm unsure on the turbine housing size ect.
ECU - In an ideal world I want the following from an ECU
Control of engine
control of DBW
Control of traction control using speed sensors.
control of launch control (because why not).
Control of cruise control.
ability to use CAN Dash.
Having no experience in this line of work I can only go off what I see online and at the moment the Haltech elite 1500 is standing out to me as a front runner. I want to wire the car myself and they sell a terminated (ecu side) loom that I think I can manage.
Again, I need advice on the ECU side of things as I understand there are many ways to skin this cat. Maybe a wire in loom is a crazy idea and there are options better suited using existing looms ect.
Anyways all advice is welcome.
Gav.