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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have been swapping my mr2 with a k24a8 and I finnaly got it running like three months ago on a base rsx ecu I just wanted to see if it would start so I used that ecu it wasn’t running to good so I send the ecu off to get chipped and finnaly got it back, I got it back and it started up just fine until I put the new base map (calibration) on from kmanager it wouldn’t idle after that then after starting it up one day giving it a quick drive but I would have to give it gas for it to stay running then storing it back in my garage. It won’t even stay running even with giving it some gas like I had done the past time after the new tune now it turns on and shut right off. A few days ago I had my friend spray some starter fluid in while cranking and it turned right on and as long he he was spraying it stayed on and ran really well sounded good as well. So it’s fuel problem so…. I check fuel pressure good and residual fuel pressure aswell I check the injectors plugs I get 12v on one and I check for the ground on ohms and I would say OL i don’t know if that’s normal or not I thought it was a ground problem so I added 4 grounds total besides the main battery ground one in the trans to chassis one on the head/ block to chassis one on the intake to chassis and last one from the valve cover to chassis? So any one got any ideas I’m kinda stuck could it be the hondata v4?
 

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The ECU grounds the injectors though the ECU to actually open them.
As you run Hondata, first thing I’d do is create a log file of the engine starting up and dying and check for any error codes stored.
You can then post the log here and we’ll have a look.
Could be immobilizer, could be MAP sensor failure. The latter happens very easily if you accidentally swap the TPS and MAP sensor plug. The broken MAP sensor then permanently reads a high pressure.
If you crank it, it start right up, but then drowns in fuel and dies.

A log file would most like tell us what the ECU does not like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’m fairly new at all this, How do I create a log file and how would I export it?
Also I would like to post the video of it starting and dying how would I do that it’s only 11 secounds
Long.
 

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video: record it, upload it to youtube and post link.

Data log:


essentially connect laptop ti ECU with Kmananger software with ignition on. Select log-record, crank engine and press stop once it is dead.
safe the log with the save as menu. Either drag the log directly in here or share it though a link with google docs, dropbox etc.
or send me a message with an email address of yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry ive been drowning in work and I do ac on the side… but Ive got two days off this week tues and Wed I’ll have some more news then. Here’s the video of it starting and dying.


What’s your email…
this Tuesday I’ll create the log file and email it to you. See if you can spot anything.
 

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send you a message.

Video sounds like running way lean.

have you actually measured fuel pressure?
Do you run non-stock injectors?
Which injectors are fitted? What’s they flow rate?

Do you still have the old map? -> always download and keep/save the map of a runner before starting with a new base map.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so the injectors are new but they are the stock 310cc ones for the accord..
but as far a fuel pressure I did the whole fuel system it’s got a walbro 255 and -an 6 Lines with not one but to gauges. That’s what I’m using to read pressure


Here’s a video of the gauge on start up… also I don’t think it would be drowning in fuel because of the way it ran so easily on starter fluid.

today I will create that log and upload it
 

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that is almost 5 bar of fuel pressure with the fuel pump running. This is way too high IMHO. In absence of vacuum, you see no more than 43 to 50 PSI.
Did you install an adjustable FPR by chance? These often "self-adjust" and lead to all kinds of trouble.
I am not sure the OEM injectors even open and spray properly at 5 bar.

It gets fuel, at least the initial prime. that is just enough to fire it briefly.
When you installed the base map, did you at least adjust the fuel injector size in map?
If someone set-up this base map for say ID725x injectors, it would only get a fraction of the fuel it needs with 310cc injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I think the map is being shorted out
I swapped it for a new one and it idled and read. -7.2.
Then I shut it off and tried again. And it had other plans same problem and the map read -29.9.

Then I was running tests and I was logging and unplugged the sensor and it would read 11

The new map sensor worked once! Then it was shorted out

Have you seen this problem. I’m running tests rn before work and the map sensor plug is reading 4.8 v on the green/red wire
And 5.048v on the yel/red wire
And the green/wht is reading .024v

This is engine of key on position
 

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11PSI is the max signal of MAP sensor corresponding to 5V.

Sensor signal is green/red. It should read about 3V with ign on, engine off.
yellow red is the 5V voltage supply,y from the ECU.
green/white is sensor ground and should read about 0V vs engine block with ignition on.

These only fail reverse polarising them or putting 5 or 12V on the output line, if at all.
I suspect your starting process kills it.
Are you running a 100% OEM stock engine loom? Any modifications?
Stock alternator with intact internal filtering capacitor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey lotus sorry for the late late response I worked on. The car today and what I did do is log the starting process and tested the voltage at the ecu with the map sensor plugged in and the reading comming from the ecu was 4.8v at the green/red wire. Pin 19 on connector A


so I started and logged the car starting and stalling out on two different maps the k24 map that my friend made me and the k24 tsx stock map from kmanager.

i forgot your email and can’t find it any where so email me at [email protected] and I’ll reply with All the logs. Thank you

Also while trying to start the car on the stock tsx tune a code popped up ELD circuit high voltage.
I know nothing about this code or have never came up with it but it’s popped up before and then fell of the face of the earth just to pop up again right now.
 

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If you did not fit the ELD detector unit in your conversion, you can disable ELD in the ECU. ELD stands for electric load detection and is a 0-5V signal send to the ECU allowing it to control alternator output depending on electrical load to save fuel. if this input sees more than 5V, you get that error. Question is why does it see more than 5V on this input? hing is that anything much above 5V also kills your MAP sensor.

I send you my email in the conversions.
 

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also please remove all those additional ground straps. There should be one big ground strap from the gearbox to the chassis and then there is the loom attached ground strip emerging from the injector loom to the valve cover. All this small strips and the lacking big ground strip to the gearbox can lead to all kinds of issues as the starter motor and alternator currents flow though these small engine to chassis straps. As currents are associated with voltage drops and these currents can flow in both directions, it can move your sound potential up or down leading to excessive voltage issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Which grounds should I ditch and which should I keep so I know I’m doing it correctly? And do you know the pin location for the ELD voltage wire I want to test it and see if maybe i can track it and see why I’m getting possibly more than 5v and this could be my problem
 

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E15 ELD
it needs just one big strap from the gearbox to the chassis and the ground connection of the injector loom to the valve cover. plus obviously battery found to chassis
 
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