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sorry i know this is off topic but what about a honda crv engine? i know its a k series..i think its k24.......does the first posts stats apply to this engine also?
thanks
 

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The CRV engine works like the "The Second System (K20A3)"

IF you don;t want to change the head it can still make good power but you are not going to be able to use the rsx type s/civic si cams with 3 lobes...

So that is why people put VTEC heads (rsx type s, tsx, 2006 civic si) on these blocks.. to make them frankesteins...

Good article to read

http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0406scc_hybrid/
 

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Awsome link Nikos, Thanks!!:up:
 

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Just to straighten out a few things things,i have a 03 euro accord 2.4 6 speed(tsx) on the block it says k24a3-now if i was to believe everything i read i would apparantly have the slowest of the k24's with only half a vtec mech on one cam,WRONG,IT HAS 3 LOBES ON EACH CYLINDER ON BOTH CAMS AND VTC AND A DYNO RUN OF 205BHP-just to clear things up .So i want to see no more about the euro accords only having vtec-e
 

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from what i heard, the base rsx head is indeed different from that of the si in the sense that it lacks i vtec-e (gas saving function) and performs more like a regular i vtec head. can some one clear this up, or i think i have the article where it explains this.
 

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alright i was wondering with the k20a3 head can we change everything (cams, valve, spring, lobe etc...) from the k20a and put them in the k20a3 head ?!
 

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no u cant change anything from the k20a to the a3 the original k20a head meaning type s or k20r from itr have 3 lobes on there cams to our a3 having only two lobes per cams so they wont fit. But someone has done an a2 cam swap on there a3 but u need most of the parts from the a2 head so its just easy to get the a2 head or the full a2 swap. heres a thread from ephatch.com http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94578
 

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Concerning the CRV swap on a k20a head...
I have my integra in the shop atm and just did a CRV swap. The main problem is the rev limit and low compression. To over come this I installed aftermarket internals so I can rev to 8500rpm. When all is said and done I hope to make 280whp all natural.
 

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so whats the story lads can the land of oppertunity offer me something tha i cant get here or is it a case of he dont matter-i've already said the car does 205bhb on a dyno its a k24a3 with 3 lobes on the intake and exhaust but hondata simply wont give me any sort of deal -----all i want for xmas is a chip of some sort
stressed--
pat
 

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K so far to date on the handling qualities of the tsx (euro r)

if you toe out the back wheels the back of the car tends to take a wider line ie. as if it's always about to let go.
whereas if you camber in too much eg a deg or so the car will always feel(especially through rutted sections)like the back wants to follow the ruts-not very comfortable as the back wobbles a bit but still very taught
for me (and this has been a year in the making)one of the best set ups for everyday driving is to...
toe the front out half a deg each side ie good for tire wear (make sure whoever is doing it that they're lift is straight and level,
and keep the back as straight as you can.now if you've lowered .as i have on h-spec springs (nice for an all round drop)you are going to have to take into account camber changes on the rear ---it is inevitiable
The front is ok ....maybe a small bit of toe out (to keep the steering taught)
whereas the back is a totally diff story
firstly we are dealing with a 5 link multi adj sus set up
which means that the boys at honda have been getting paid big money to come up with the best solution for the lads that get it wrong.
which is good---for my mum.
now how do you improve on a set up that has millions invested on it?
fact is you dont
you attune it to your driving preferences-.
so what have we got so far ,
as far as i can see there are 3 choices
1.be a mummy ,drop the kids off to school,pick up the shopping and never respect the tsx for what it is and trade it in in a few yrs when the newer model coms out.
.2.get your few quid together and get it lowered ,stiffer rear roll bar and wala one of the best handling saloons on four tires (and i haven't even started on the engine yet).
3 get paid to make it into a race car ie full sus set up chassis rewelding lowerd to a speed bump defying height strip it out and give it all the bells and whistles.

unless you have got a 100,000 to spare i reckon the most of us are going to fall into the 2nd position. so that leavs us with the conundrum ---softness OR stiffness
now AS i dont want to wake the kids before they get to school and i still want anyone who gets in to say that it's nice and comfy -yet i still want to nail it on that flyover on the way home and the 2 miles of nice country (but ruff) roads on the way home.ie handling with comfort are my main priority .
so what was i to do i wanted it to handle as good with 2 adults in the back as it does on its own,so i started measuring things and swing movements.
Firstly the rear you are dealing with a 5 link independant suspension set up on both
sides,
what this means is if you were any good at trigonometery means that you simply cant get the sufficient adjustability by just moving one point(ive seen some kits that offer just the 1 adjustabe parameter which just doesn't work because there are 4 links arguing with it.
so that leaves us with a certain brand with allows us to adj the 2 bottom bars,
which is really good for us --meaning
adj----camber
adj ----toe
what more do you want
if you take a pentagon which ha 5 sides ,you cant move 1 without affecting the other 4 sides ,that is the kind of sus system that we are dealing with,so we infiltrate by buying 2 adj arms which gives us the freedom to adjust the toe and camber
so the best advice after all that and from experience
is
lower the car by 1.5 in all round.
the front will need a small bit of adj (depending on driving style)toe it in for quick corners (.5deg) but a wafty feeling around 120 will be noticable.tho if that doesn't suit toe it out abou half a deg for a nice stable feeling up through the gears and a nice planted feeling at 120mph.
The back is a diff story.
like i said its a 5 link independant sus were dealing with,
meaning u cant just adjust 1 parameter without moving the other 4solid links unless u buy the 2 lower adj arms,
what this does for us is that it gives us the freedom to adj every perameter(good or bad)to our liking
from what ive found
a deg in toe causes the back to follow ,like whenever you go over a rut you have 1 side of the back going through the rut ,a slight loss of traction for a split sec and the other side then tries to steer towards it (not a nice feeling)
so i went back and got the back toe'd out a deg,
Good
felt alot more stable in between corners but it felt like the back was always just about to let go .
so that leades me to believe that the best set up fof the accord/tsx
with a 1.5 drop all round(taking tire life into account)is
front toe out .25 a deg from std
rear -keep it as straight as you can ie camber/toe
You can stray from this if you like just dont forget that the chassis you are dealing with is 1 of the stiffest chassis you can buy on the market today so try to keep the back as straight as you can ie
camber -.5 deg
toe 0.0
i know its fairly uninventive but if you have a set up that works better for everyday driving lets see it
 

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Can someone answer this question for me? A guy on Honda-Tech asked and I really have no idea. Thanks

"I have been throwing around the idea of trading out the B for a K in my R. i saw your bay shot in the spoon thread. if in fact its your bay. I was wondering if its possible to do maintenance on the motor without completely removing it. i notice the timing chain is very close to the shock tower. changing out cams/chain or any type of work on that side of the motor seems inmpossible without dropping the motor. is this assumption correct?"
 

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what about the k24z3?? does this conform to the k20a3 rules too?? great information....i thought my k24z3 has vtec around 3500 rpms. this engine doesn't seem to comply to what you stated above, or in the 1st post....
 

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heyy i know this is not the place for this question but i cannot post threads for some reason so hopefully someone will help me out. i have a k24a1 motor i plan on using stage 2 brian crower cams. i was wondering what numbers i could expect out of this setup? also with a setup like this do i need to use k-pro? i know kpro is always recommended but do i need to to work. i plan on purchaseing kpro when i begin to piece together my custom gt35r turbo kit. thanks
 

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3. The K20A3 engages VTEC at 5000+ RPM.

Wrong. Technically, there is no "VTEC" (as we think of it) in the K20A3 engine - it uses a VTEC-E technology, which engages at 2200RPM. Read under "The Second Sytem" above.
Its not right: first you say at 5000 + RPM than you say at 2200 RPM..there cant be two vtec engagements you know ! :confused:
 
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