Look at the second to last pic, the windage tray is the steel pan that covers the rods. It keeps oil from splashing onto the rods while the car is in motion.
alright cool, got it...HONDA GHANDI said:Look at the second to last pic, the windage tray is the steel pan that covers the rods. It keeps oil from splashing onto the rods while the car is in motion.
HONDA GHANDI said:
alright cool thats what I thought... I just read something that made me think otherwise...HONDA GHANDI said:Its all covered by the pan and timing cover.
lagachette said:I did the K20 K24 swap and I have put the type S oil pump on the TSX block.
I never find this information before but when we put the RSX Type S oil pump to replace the TSX oli pump, we must plug the oil line at the bottom of the TSX (CRV,Accord, Element). If we don't do that, the result will be a oil pressure drop I'm I right?
NickZED said:if you look at the two oil pumps, the k24 one attaches to the block in an aditional location compared to the k24 one. i never had time to investigate throughly, but i have heard that it has to be plugged also.
it only makes sense, since it would be like a hole in an air compressor, you would just loose pressure from the oil flowing down from the head to the oil pan without doing anything.
lagachette said:You are right, the oil comming from this line, will go to the pan. I didn't tell that I have use this motor 5000km in the street last summer. After 1500km, I had to remove the head to clean carbon in the combustion chamber and also on the top of the pistons. This carbon was the result of oil in the combustion chamber. I was using Total seal top rings with this set up. I thaugh that they was the culpit of this oil in the combustion chamber. After this clean up, I decided to change the synthetic Motul 300v oil for mineral oil. After that, there was no oil on the top of the pistons anymore. I have run this motor 3500 others km without any oil in the combustion chamber. But with cold weather, at the end of the summer, I have see again oil on the top of my pistons. Maybe the Total Seal are the culpit but I think that the oil not plugged at the bottom of the block could hit the type S baffle plate and going toward the cylinder That is not really good. Anyway I will plug this hole and use this motor for the race. I will use a TSX new block from a crash test for the street and also plugged this hole. Briand from Hasport didn't tell to plug this hole in his article swap K20 K24. I think that he forget something important there.
HONDA GHANDI said:
Hey Ghandi,HONDA GHANDI said:Yeah they are right jon v. The TSX and EP3 oil pump assemblies use balance shafts. They shafts require a fresh oil supply so they take it off of the bottom of the crank girdle that supplies the main bearings. This must be plugged before you can use the RSX pump. It is easily done with a short 8mm bolt (I think its 8mm) and a washer. Here is a pic of the port and plug. The oil orifice needs to be removed then a bolt put in to plug the bleed hole.
I'm also inerested in this second hole.......squarepants said:Hey Ghandi,
In that issue of "Honda Tuning" where they did the K24 build up, they said something about plugging up a second oil hole with a 1/8npt plug that you tap first.. Do you have any insite on this??? They had some pics of it but i heard nobody bring this up yet...
if you wanna know hit up civictype-s thats my buddy troy's car... the em2 with the k24a2 bottom & k20a2 head..k20girl said:I'm also inerested in this second hole.......
Mine is a k24a4. it has the same orifice as the pic above just no threads. I've seen k20a3's with a diffrent style orifice that has a hex head and is threaded in. The second hole is on the same side and is near were the k20a3 pump mounts the small oneHONDA GHANDI said:Yeah it was already threaded. Maybe some aren't. I havent seen one yet. Do you know which ones that you have seen unthreaded? Are they K24A1/2/4s?