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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I spent a bit of time playing with the clutch fork, pivot ball, and slave cylinder. They didn't seem to be in the correct place, but after assembling everything with the OE pivot bolt and installing everything in the car the clutch works as intended.

While the engine is in the car temporarily (again) I tackled a few other projects.

The lower coolant hose has a long run, so I cobbled together 3 hoses to make it work.






I added a nutsert to the shock tower to install the CAI. I'll add another securing point to the filter.




There was not a clear path for the fuel line under the intake, so it will run over the intake hose. AN compression fitting are installed on the fuel rail and OE hardline.



 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Because stupid cannot be overdone and I'm a glutton for punishment - Welcome to the marriage of Toyota and Honda...
Wow revvhappy, just wow. This is a very interesting project with great dedication...my deep respect for your challenge you actually going through :up:.

Intake manifold:
Did you think of using a S2000 IM which already has the TB flange on the right side? There are, like you mentioned the good aftermarket support, transformer flanges available, e.g. at Ballade Sports.

I am looking forward to see this RWD monster running :).

Markus
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
There have been many "compromise" decisions made on this project due to budget constraints. If I wasn't restricted to a certain dollar amount for the entire engine swap (Champcar rules) I would have cut the firewall and pushed the engine back another 12". That would have let me leave the cross-member alone and use a standard baffled oil pan, but would have required a custom driveshaft (more $$). I knew about the forward-facing intake options but they add more $$ than I am allowed to spend ($1500 total for engine and everything it takes to make it work). I'm at the limit with the bellhousing, engine, and some necessary parts to make it all work together.

Last night I was thinking about options for the intake. One thought was to route a metal tube along the firewall inside the cockpit. I could seal the throttle body and filter on the engine side of the firewall and run a 3" empty aluminum pipe inside the car that connects them. This would solve at least three current "packaging" problems: coolant hose routing from the head, fuel line routing, and throttle cable routing.

Update edit: Champcar tech shot down my idea of an intake tube in the cockpit area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Good eye - that is indeed Megasquirt (Evo). There isn't a lot of information for K24 tuning compared to Hondata, but I already had the MS system.

After pulling the engine and oil pan again I believe that I've "massaged" the pan enough to stop the leaks. A big bead of Hondabond didn't hurt :)

The cooling system hoses aren't finalized, but the engine is back in and I'll run it on the dyno with a temporary set-up and run more hard pipes when I do it right.
 

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Good eye - that is indeed Megasquirt (Evo). There isn't a lot of information for K24 tuning compared to Hondata, but I already had the MS system.



After pulling the engine and oil pan again I believe that I've "massaged" the pan enough to stop the leaks. A big bead of Hondabond didn't hurt :)



The cooling system hoses aren't finalized, but the engine is back in and I'll run it on the dyno with a temporary set-up and run more hard pipes when I do it right.
Is EVO a version of the ultimate? I was running MS3X on my last motor but when swapping to a K24 I wanted to keep the drive by wire. So I switched to haltech 1500. There really isnt much out for running this motors on anything other then hondata, atleast haltech has a decent base tune for a k20. Shoot there Is a guy in Australia I keep up with who did the k24 swap I'm doing years ago and he keeps trying to get me to switch.

I hope you dont run into the cooling system issue I am. I got an air bubble trapped in the head that I cant get out.

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...There really isnt much out for running this motors on anything other then hondata, atleast haltech has a decent base tune for a k20...
You talk about base maps for tuning?

Many aftermarket ECU's support with Honda K-series base maps, mostly for 86x86 applications, that's correct. I did tune those on MoTec M1, Haltech Elite, AEM Infinity beside Hondata and Doctronic. Doing a base map from there for the 87x99 engine isn't a big deal, just a bit time consuming. BTW, my definition of base map is it runs on idle and low load in closed loop without going into limp mode, so no long street driving, just to reduce tuning time with getting the start and idle working well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
We got the engine running, but the ignition settings were confusing to a Megasquirt guy who was helping me.

We started in the "K24" setting, using the intake cam as a timing reference. This resulted in erroneous timing events. Then we switched to the exhaust cam sensor as the reference and got a clean ignition event line but the timing was WAY off. I remembered that some people were having problems with sequential ignition and we switched to "wasted spark" mode which let us finally get close enough to fire. My tech was surprised that he had to enter a "negative" timing value to get the timing close.

I would love to have a base tune for a CAI and stock exhaust, one that would have the timing specs including type of spark, dwell, and other values that we could double-check against the current set-up. The fuel map will be fairly easy to tune on the dyno.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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...We started in the "K24" setting, using the intake cam as a timing reference. This resulted in erroneous timing events. Then we switched to the exhaust cam sensor as the reference and got a clean ignition event line but the timing was WAY off. I remembered that some people were having problems with sequential ignition and we switched to "wasted spark" mode which let us finally get close enough to fire. My tech was surprised that he had to enter a "negative" timing value to get the timing close.
I wonder why you refer to the cam, when you have a 12+1 signal from crank and a 4+1 from cam. Once you found TDC of cylinder #1 you just need to refer the distance of the crank signal - which is more accurate - to the ECU reference set point, which is maybe TDC between compression and power stroke. Of course you can refer this to the cam as 2nd source, as it has already the right frequency of the 4 strokes per revolution, but also the SW can do it if the setup of TDC and power stroke distance in crank angle is done right.

...I would love to have a base tune for a CAI and stock exhaust, one that would have the timing specs including type of spark, dwell, and other values that we could double-check against the current set-up. The fuel map will be fairly easy to tune on the dyno.
MegaSquirt is one of the ECU's I haven't tuned yet, it is only rarely used here in Germany...maybe Volvo scene...so from there I haven't a plug and play. But you can start with the base map values of a K20 base map of any other system, which is free on web, like Hondata KPro or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I've read through those threads several times, and now they make more sense. Unfortunately they haven't been active for a while, but I'll give them a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Overheating and struggling to run cool.

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It looks like you found a solution to the overheating problem in your thread. Can you share details?

I finally gave up on the OE intake manifold. There were too many things competing for the same space in the engine bay (throttle body, coolant line, fuel line, wiring). I ordered one of the new KMiata manifolds that uses a B-series TB. Now I can weld the firewall closed again and have room to run all of the other systems comfortably through that space near the firewall.
 

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Yes I've mostly solved it, it still runs a little to hot for me. It comes down to 2 things not running a Ktuned thermostat and having a fill point near the cylinder head. For 15$ you can get a inline fill port splice it into the radiator, then with the help of a funnel it bleeds easy.


It still runs a little hot cruising at highway speeds getting up to 205F. It could just be some air left in the system I get my swirl pot from tractuff any day now tho.

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Have you ever gotten to the point of a budget build and faced insurmountable problems that make you ponder throwing in the towel? That was me two months ago as I fought with trying to package 10lbs of crap in a 5lb space, while also sacrificing a bit of safety by cutting a large hole in the firewall right in front of the driver. Competing for space: Intake pipe, Throttle body, Fuel line, Brake line, Throttle cable, Coolant hose, and Firewall.




After trying everything in my skill set to make this work I finally gave up at the exact moment that the answer was being crafted. Rather than giving up I changed my thought process. I want: 1. safe, and 2. reliable, so I spent some money to solve all of the problems. Yes, I'll take a hit and who knows where the Chump budget will end up, but I'm ready to finish this thing the right way.

New Hotness: KMiata intake for RWD applications. Uses K series IACV and MAP, a B-series throttle body and TPS (found used on eBay). I was able to weld the firewall closed, and there is a ton of room for all components.






The search is on for a Toyota throttle cable that will fit, and a plug for the B-series TPS. Then it's dyno time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The S2K intake was a choice, but requires an adapter and I've heard that it doesn't flow very well in this application. The KMiata intake is a simple bolt-on that uses the OE fuel rail and easily obtainable throttle bodies in a proven package. I needed an "easy button" and this was the best choice for me.
 
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