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Thought i share this manual tensioner set-up we made for the Time Attack DC2R.

Thanks to jaydee with the idea and base design, we were able to fit a similar set-up in our K-swap DC2R.

Jaydee has logged slipage during high RPM shifts so with the added manual tensioner, it will keep the belt nice and tight during high RPM shifts



 

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Nice. I made one for mine too a while back.
 

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Thought i share this manual tensioner set-up we made for the Time Attack DC2R.

Thanks to jaydee with the idea and base design, we were able to fit a similar set-up in our K-swap DC2R.

Jaydee has logged slipage during high RPM shifts so with the added manual tensioner, it will keep the belt nice and tight during high RPM shifts




First, your ITR is a complete track monster and I watch vids of it all the time, GREAT WORK :up:

How does it apply tension? Does the long threaded bolt touch the motor mount then push forward which then applies tension on the belt?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First, your ITR is a complete track monster and I watch vids of it all the time, GREAT WORK :up:

How does it apply tension? Does the long threaded bolt touch the motor mount then push forward which then applies tension on the belt?
It doesnt apply tension. Its still using the OEM auto tensioner. This mechanisms stops the auto tensioner from pushing back, keeping the tension nice and firm during shifts and high RPM.

The thread and brackets clears everything. Quite happy with how it turned out.
 

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? If that rectangular block is threaded the auto tensioning cant work ?

If is isnt what how does it stop the auto tensioning moving away ? If there was another bolt on the other side of the cube i could understand
 

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It doesnt apply tension. Its still using the OEM auto tensioner. This mechanisms stops the auto tensioner from pushing back, keeping the tension nice and firm during shifts and high RPM.

The thread and brackets clears everything. Quite happy with how it turned out.
Hey Benson

How much would you charge to make me one?
Getting a metal worker here locally is a pain in the ass..
Thanks in advance,

Mitch


? If that rectangular block is threaded the auto tensioning cant work ?

If is isnt what how does it stop the auto tensioning moving away ? If there was another bolt on the other side of the cube i could understand
I think its threaded. The of the bolt towards the tensioner pulley isn't. Because it needs to move when locking the tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've got a spare set on the shelf

Shoot me a PM
 

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Took this video today during my fine tuning dyno session and seen that belt movement on high revs.

Is this normal?

http://youtu.be/50MYMPkmNGU
 

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Already installed one fabricated by my mechanic but there's no way belt tension gauge can measure its tension because can't get a clear spot to hold belt on my fn2 euro civic.

Is there any other way to know how much should I increase tension to get ~600lb??
 

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Already installed one fabricated by my mechanic but there's no way belt tension gauge can measure its tension because can't get a clear spot to hold belt on my fn2 euro civic.

Is there any other way to know how much should I increase tension to get ~600lb??
If you check out the photo's:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=163201
You will see I use a rubber KTM exhaust mount which has an 8mm bolt thread on the ends. I use this to dampen vibration and shock loadings. I suggest you use a setup like this on a belt where you can measure the tension and then you can see how much the rubber compress/deforms in compression. I have found this to be accurate enough.

Also as a general rule 600N is tight enough that it is not possible to turn the belt more than 50-60degs out of plane between pulleys.
 
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