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Anyone used the Mfactory posi on here? Price seems decent compared to others.

I've used Quaife, Gripper, PowerTrac, WaveTrac and factory clutch type in Volvos (RWD & FWD/AWD). Like to hear any experience with this...
 

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Correct. If you break an axle and are using a helical LSD, the car will not move under its own power. If you use a clutch type LSD it will. Supposedly the Wavetrac will allow it to move still, but I have no experience with one and breaking an axle.
I know this is ages old, but I had the left spline popping out of my K20a2 gearbox in my Elise fitted with a Wavetrac diff. I was actually data logging on the Autobahn to map for e85 when it happend. I was going 145 mph!
I used a well used drive shaft and reused the snap ring. Bad idea. Now replaced with a brand new ring and brand new Honda OEM joint.
The joint design has changed a bit. My old Honda joint had spherical bearings fitted on cylindrically shaped tripods. The new one had cylindrical needle bearings (closed high qualitity design) on spherical tripods. OEM labled box bought from Honda dealership.

Now the interesting bit:
When the spline popped out, about 1“, I lost all drive and had to coast to a nearby parking lot. Speed helps :)
At first I though my gearbox input shaft had snapped. There was no drive or engine braking whatsoever.
On the parking lot, I tried to move the car and there was also ZERO drive.
I could engage 1st gear without the clutch and there was not even the slightest feelable hint of the car even wiggling, nothing, nada. Reving it 3000 rpm would not induce any forward movement on a flat tarmac surface. Nothing, nada, zero.

I could engage and disengage the clutch in any gear with no brake or handbrake without even the slightest hint of even a change in sound, a litte juggering or anything. It feld as if the engine was off. It behalved EXACTLY like a open diff with one wheel/shaft having zero traction.

In a email exchange with Wavetrac I was told the car needs to move. What a rubbish.
I was offered to send it in, but likely nothing would be identified as wrong with it.
Removing a diff on a K20 engined Elise is no easy feat as the entire engine/GB combo needs to come out. My unit was purchased brand new and had been driven about 500 miles by then and a trackday in Spa.
The torsen function works fine.

The helical diff won‘t do anything without torque, but the „wave“ thingy is supposed to provide a little bit of torque transfer from drive shaft speed difference. I provided plenty of speed difference both while cruising at 100+mph and standing on the parking lot. There was ZERO speed difference induce locking with my wavetrac diff.

The car is off the road over winter, but in spring I‘ll recored a video.
1. I‘ll place rolling board under the cassis on one side to lift it and try to move the car with one driven wheel only in my perfectly flat and tiled garage.
Easily done with a Elise.
2. I’ll put it on gear idling with both wheels lifted up off the ground, bring one wheel to a stop and then hold it with my hand as a demo. I might also attach a pull balance for flight luggage to show how little to no torque is transfered from speed difference.
 

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On a side note, I emailed Wavetrac about the diff I put in my Volvo C30 about 1.5years ago - the left axle had unseated several times under relatively hard load whilst either steering left or turning left (presumably the axle is approaching full extension ). I had removed the axle a couple times to examine & found no fault, but I did not put a new circlip at that time.

They said only cases they had were with worn axles/worn clip, and that replacing one or both would definitely resolve it. I just replaced the circlip about 2 weeks ago, as the axle unseated again. See how it goes.

The reason it did not occur to me to replace the circlip (with no apparent wear markings) is that I have installed Quaife & other diffs without ever a problem, using the original axles and clips...
 

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When I had the Rover K engine in there with its PG1 gearbox, I reinstalled the same driveshafts a dozen times with the same circlip as they are not avaialble anymore. Neither with the OEM open diff or the Torsen Typ B diff, I had a shaft popping out.
I know of an other chap with a K20 Elise conversion where exacly the same happend also at very high speeds in a turn. He replaced the CV joint with a brand new one and is like me currently avoiding very high speeds.
 

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The big problem for me was that I did not know it had unseated the first time until I smelled the gear oil cooking on the exhaust. By that time, I had already run the trans down about 1l low, so I now have trouble with reverse engagement. The reverse cluster is the top assembly, and I assume either the bearings or the synchro slider are cooked now :(
 
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