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I'm looking to get some N/A cams for my K20A. Wanted a moderate cam where i dont have to upgrade the valve train or could find cams, springs and retainers as a package deal. Looking to spend around $1k. I been searching, but i wanna hear what people have to say that own the cams themselves:D
 

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I'm looking to get some N/A cams for my K20A. Wanted a moderate cam where i dont have to upgrade the valve train or could find cams, springs and retainers as a package deal. Looking to spend around $1k. I been searching, but i wanna hear what people have to say that own the cams themselves:D
I have some stage 2 Crower cams that I am wanting to sell. You can find them at the following link. They come with stock new valve springs. I will let them go for $300 shipped.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51418
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have some stage 2 Crower cams that I am wanting to sell. You can find them at the following link. They come with stock new valve springs. I will let them go for $300 shipped.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51418
Looks pretty good. It says they make power till 9500rpm. Would i be fine with this setup as to not modifying anything else except for a tune? I've also heard crower cams are pron to crack. is this true?

edit: also which would you say is better crower stage 2's or blueprint stage 2's? remember im just building the head and getting it tuned. (RBC, HYTECH, CAI) If you could explain or point out where to read about comparrisons that would be sweet. i love to learn:dance:
 

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toruku cams are the cheapest at 395 shipped(to the lower 48 states). they also are oem valvetrain safe. i think bp makes stage 1s that don't need valvetrain but im not 100 percent on that so don't quote me on it. IPS are damn good cams but you need valvetrain. you not revving to 9500 without valvetrain man. forget that. not if you plannin on keeping ya engine running anyway.

the cam thing has been beat down so much there's no need to ask someone what works and what doesn't. just search around and you will see
 

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toruku cams are the cheapest at 395 shipped(to the lower 48 states). they also are oem valvetrain safe. i think bp makes stage 1s that don't need valvetrain but im not 100 percent on that so don't quote me on it. IPS are damn good cams but you need valvetrain. you not revving to 9500 without valvetrain man. forget that. not if you plannin on keeping ya engine running anyway.

the cam thing has been beat down so much there's no need to ask someone what works and what doesn't. just search around and you will see
blue print stage 2's are looking nice.i need a valvetrain though. and i know id need a valvetrain to rev to 9500.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wondering which would be considered "better" blueprints or crower? Again i heard some negative about crower.Ii'm not saying its true i'm just trying to figure out if theres any truth in this matter?
 

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You know, it's tempting to spend as little as possible on the cam upgrade, but you want to do things right. You definitely want to spend the extra money to get the valvetrain. Don't mess with stock valvesprings with aftermarket cams designed for a powerband that exceeds stock redline. If you misshift, aftermarket valvesprings will give your motor a fighting chance. If you have stock valvesprings, you'll be wishing you'd paid the 300-400 for new valve springs & retainers when you put the cams in instead of the $1000+ for rebuilding the motor.

As for cams, I just got my IPS k2 mark III, but those are designed for the hot street setup, high compression, big header, big manifold. For a stock block, the IPS k2 Mark II are the golden standard. Reliable gains, no tensioner issues, no lobe wear issues. You end up paying a lot, but again the amount of $$$ I spent dealing with tensioner issues makes me wish I had gone IPS a long time ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks. thats more or less what i was trying to find out. thanks for your time:up:
 

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Here's a dyno I received from a k20a.org user that had BP stage 2 cams and upgraded to IPS k2 mark2.. I believe he still needs maybe a better header but looks good

IPS is red line

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's a dyno I received from a k20a.org user that had BP stage 2 cams and upgraded to IPS k2 mark2.. I believe he still needs maybe a better header but looks good

IPS is red line

nice. looks like decent gain over the BP's.:up::up:
 

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i can speak on behalf on skunk2 stage 2 cams. i've had them in my car for about 6 months now with absolutely no problems.

i'm running version 3 of these camshafts which corrects the exhaust cam centerline thus no longer needing the skunk2 exhaust cam gear to correct the centerline.

my car has only been street tuned and my tuner used chunky's modified cam angle maps as well for proper start up.

i'm still using the stock tensioner and i've had no problems. and my car is a daily driver :wow:
 

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i can speak on behalf on skunk2 stage 2 cams. i've had them in my car for about 6 months now with absolutely no problems.

i'm running version 3 of these camshafts which corrects the exhaust cam centerline thus no longer needing the skunk2 exhaust cam gear to correct the centerline.

my car has only been street tuned and my tuner used chunky's modified cam angle maps as well for proper start up.

i'm still using the stock tensioner and i've had no problems. and my car is a daily driver :wow:
I'm sorry, but there have been way too many people with issues when it comes to skunk2 cams, even when they are installed by skunk2!
I try to be as unbiased as possible with what I hear, but I would not recommend them.
 

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hey mattv, i dont think i read anywhere your specific power goals...you should base your cam choice on that as well as if you plan on upgrading future things down the road ie: higher comp pistons, as others have said GET THE VALVE TRAIN you will thank yourself if you miss a shift one day 300-400 dollar springs and retainers can prevent needing an expensive head job to fix damage (believe me ive been there a few times)
 

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I'm looking to get some N/A cams for my K20A. Wanted a moderate cam where i dont have to upgrade the valve train or could find cams, springs and retainers as a package deal. Looking to spend around $1k. I been searching, but i wanna hear what people have to say that own the cams themselves:D
What's the setup on the rest of the engine?
 

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i can speak on behalf on skunk2 stage 2 cams. i've had them in my car for about 6 months now with absolutely no problems.

i'm running version 3 of these camshafts which corrects the exhaust cam centerline thus no longer needing the skunk2 exhaust cam gear to correct the centerline.

my car has only been street tuned and my tuner used chunky's modified cam angle maps as well for proper start up.

i'm still using the stock tensioner and i've had no problems. and my car is a daily driver :wow:
im also runnin a s2 cam but mine are the stg 3's (revised set) also daily/track driven.also runing the same stock tensioner lol. i kno ppl have had a lot of problems wit s2 cams but i juss think its also good to post good feedback if a person personally has no problems with a certain company.:up:


hey mattv, i dont think i read anywhere your specific power goals...you should base your cam choice on that as well as if you plan on upgrading future things down the road ie: higher comp pistons, as others have said GET THE VALVE TRAIN you will thank yourself if you miss a shift one day 300-400 dollar springs and retainers can prevent needing an expensive head job to fix damage (believe me ive been there a few times)

^ he's right ur power goals are very important wen your choosing your cams, you dont wanna spend money twice wich most of us(including me) on here have more then twice lol.
all these cams these ppl are posting for you are good cams, u juss have to make a decision on how much power ur tryin to make, and make your decision from their.
but wat ever you do mattv make sure u upgrade your valve train.

good luck on watever your decision is:up:
 

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toruku cams are the cheapest at 395 shipped(to the lower 48 states). they also are oem valvetrain safe. i think bp makes stage 1s that don't need valvetrain but im not 100 percent on that so don't quote me on it. IPS are damn good cams but you need valvetrain. you not revving to 9500 without valvetrain man. forget that. not if you plannin on keeping ya engine running anyway.

the cam thing has been beat down so much there's no need to ask someone what works and what doesn't. just search around and you will see
With the Ips k2 cams you don't need a valvetrain.Although it's highly recommended,and I'd use it if it's my car,but yeah.

Quoted from Ips website.

"OEM Honda valve train part numbers (required combo, not included - this specific combination does not come pre-installed from the Honda factory. Customers must determine what components they already have in their engine, then supplement by ordering what is needed from their local Honda/Acura dealership):"

* Dished retainer - 14765-PRB-A01
* Yellow outer spring - 14761-PCX-003
* Red inner spring - 14752-PRB-A01

Max safe rpm: 8500rpm

Optionally, Eibach EVS P/N 20411.216 has been certified.

"Recommended for convenience, availability and more headroom to grow as you build the motor. Alternately, if stock bottom end is to be retained - the OEM valvetrain combo is ideally suited."


http://www.intrinsicperformance.com/products.html
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What's the setup on the rest of the engine?
after some research im def gonna do springs and retainers also. :up: thanks for the imput everyone.

As for my power goals im just looking to get as much as i can with out building the block. It will also be my daily
 
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