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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
*Ok, now that there are a few k20-ef's running around, I have decided to update this post with more relevant information.*
Hasport's Instruction Manual:
http://www.k20a.org/efk1.pdf

Also, you may want to check out Ryan from Rywire's walkthrough: http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/k20-how-to.htm

The necessary parts to accomplish this swap. (prices are rough estimates or what i have paid/read that people paid for there parts) This price list assumes you receive a complete swap including : shifter cables/shifter box, ecu, etc...

Motor of your choice:
k20a2 swap = ~$3500
k20a swap = ~$5500
Hasport Mounts = $650
Hasport/Rywire Conversion Harness = $350
Axles= EP3 Axles work, or DSS Axles starting at $400 for Stage1
Fuel Lines/Fittings = ~$200
*There are many different ways to setup your fuel delivery so I will not get into what fittings and stuff like that to buy*
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail = $120
Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator (AEM/Aeromotive) = $130-180
Header = SixSigmaRace Engineering currently make a k20-EF header: ~$1000
or you can go Hasport=$400
Traction Bar = *You can clearance the front crossmember or you can purchase a Full-Race unit = $450
Gauge Cluster = JDM SiR unit or retain your stock cluster, thanks to John at ICON auto parts for the how-to:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7995
Hondata K-Pro = $850-950
Throttle Cable = EP3 cable works fine
Clutch Cable = Stock Works fine

Relocating the Brake Proportioning Valve
rotate it 90 degrees away from the shock tower towards the firewall. Watch the brake lines while you're doing this and help them bend without allowing them to crimp. It's pretty easy to do. You can take the stock EF bracket and mount it 180 degrees and then bolt it to the firewall.


Removal of Passenger Side Tranny Bracket


Bolt in new Hasport supplied Passenger Side Bracket using existing battery tray bolts. Then weld onto frame


Pics of the mounts
Driver Side Mount


Passenger Side Mount


Rear Mount: You can see just to the right of the mount the area that has to be clearanced for the tranny to fit


Pics of the cable-hydro conversion unit


A Fiber Images SiR style hood, with removal of the idler pulley (3-Pulley Setup) and the fuel rail cover, fits on the k20 with about a quarter to a half an inch clearance between the oil cap and hood. Thanks to Brian G at hasport for the pics



If anyone has any more questions, feel free to post. We are all here to learn. So hopefully this thread will help us accomplish our goals with a little less headaches.

Thanks to everyone who is making this happen...

-Julian
 

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jNYCe5 said:
J_SPEC said:
Which cluster work?
A 90-91 Civic will work, theJDM clusters will work and im pretty sure the Integra Clusters will work... Basically anything that uses a vehicle speed sensor instead of the speedo cable that come on the 88 and 89's
The 90-91 US Civic cluster are all cable driven. The only electronic driven speedometer for 4th gen Civics come in B16 powered cars. The yellow 88 CRX has a 90-91 JDM SiR cluster. The 90-91 gauge cluster hood and gauge cluster mount brackets were used.

brian g
 

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Re: *Let's gather all EF-K20 Swap Info into one thread*

jNYCe5 said:
A Fiber Images SiR style hood, with removal of the idler pulley and the fuel rail cover, the hood fits on the k20 with about a quarter to a half an inch clearance between the oil cap and hood.
Here are some pics:




jNYCe5 said:
Questions:
*How will the harness be handled? What will be needed from the engine/car? Is the car's engine harness and motor's engine harness/charging harness all?

*Will the harness plug into the connectors at the shock tower, and then have a conversion harness to the ecu/K-Pro, or how will that work out?

*ETA on the mounts: Late December/January reasonably expected?
We'll make a sub-harness. We probably won't need anything from the EF. The harness will pug into a couple of connectors in the EF and you will need to splice into some other wires near the ECU plugs too. A K-Pro will make things easier if you don't have a JDM ECU.

Late December or January sounds about right.

brian g
 

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Eliminating the idler pulley has being done already on a couple k20a swaps.

Basically, all you need is the AEM or STR aftermarket pulley for the Civic Ep3 or RSX types (Note: If you buy the rsx type S one, you are stuck with a AEM powersterring pulley you cannot use. The Civic AEM pulley kit ony has one pulley)



belt can be bought from advance auto
rib 39 inch belt.

Part number is POLY COG 5070390


The car that has this setup is this one




The other car that has this setup usues the STR pulley

you can see the clearance here
http://temp.australianinfront....s.jpg

The car that uses this setup is this one



he took the hood off for the show but it fits :p

Without the tensioner, they use the bolts and washers.

BOth cars have done more than 10K miles each so the 3 pulley setup works.

Nikos
 

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can any other belt be used? like the ep3 or rsx belt?
 

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I dont think you can use those belts because most aftermarket pulleys tend to be a different size than the stocker...But Im not for certain.
 

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Ok im new to this forum, this is my first post. So Hasport does have k20 Mounts for the EF?
SOrry but Im a NOB to this site. :roll:
 

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Is there atleast a price estimte on the mount kit?
what else is asport offering fdor the EF K-series conversion?
 

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does somebody make a fuel kit that you can just buy or do you have to put one together? Also what about the shift linkage is it a cable or linkage?
 

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for those of us who have above average wiring skills, what exactly needs to be spliced into the new ecu? i know that basically the whole dash harness is.. but is it really just stuff like the ignition and key cyl wiring along with the guage cluster stuff? i know its a tough question to ask everything that plugs in, but it would be nice to know.
thanx a lot
scott
 

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can you run an aftermarket front cross member like the full race one?

What kind of aftermarket fuel rail and fuel pressure regular are the k20 people running (was thinking of aem fpr and fuel rail and fuel filter)

Also what other fuel problem are every one referring too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Rostr02 said:
can you run an aftermarket front cross member like the full race one?

What kind of aftermarket fuel rail and fuel pressure regular are the k20 people running (was thinking of aem fpr and fuel rail and fuel filter)

Also what other fuel problem are every one referring too?
you can run a full race... the front crossmember should not be an issue with these swaps...

Golden Eagle Fuel Rail (camp1320 $118 Shipped for k20a.org members)
and AEM FPR would be a good bet... just make sure it is the universal FPR, not the 25-300 series for b-series swaps.

that should be it... i dont forsee any real problems...

The only real dilemma is that there is not enough information on this swap. Considering that Pacman's k20-crx was a one-off design, we just have to wait on hasport to see what they are doing or how they have done it...
 

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thanks alot will have to look into the golden eagle rail (never heard of it before)

to everyone thanks for all of theinfo on the swap


I saw the golden eagle rail looks good to me camp 1320 good site
 

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k20a into ef9 shift lever question

i got the ctr cable type shift linkage with my jdm k20a swap.
my question is will i have to use that, or what?
i have a c's position shift lever for my ef9, and want to know if there is some way that i can use that?
car is full race only, no street duty.

- P

p.s. i also have the jdm ecu, can i just run that or will i run into immobilizer issues?
 

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I havent tried any swaps with the civic si/ctr shift cables,but I do not believe they are compatible with the rsx/accord floor shifter.
I'd get a set of rsx cables.
The type r ecu does have an immobilizer,but it is easier to bypass than the type s.
 
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