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*Ok, now that there are a few k20-ef's running around, I have decided to update this post with more relevant information.*
Hasport's Instruction Manual:
http://www.k20a.org/efk1.pdf
Also, you may want to check out Ryan from Rywire's walkthrough: http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/k20-how-to.htm
The necessary parts to accomplish this swap. (prices are rough estimates or what i have paid/read that people paid for there parts) This price list assumes you receive a complete swap including : shifter cables/shifter box, ecu, etc...
Motor of your choice:
k20a2 swap = ~$3500
k20a swap = ~$5500
Hasport Mounts = $650
Hasport/Rywire Conversion Harness = $350
Axles= EP3 Axles work, or DSS Axles starting at $400 for Stage1
Fuel Lines/Fittings = ~$200
*There are many different ways to setup your fuel delivery so I will not get into what fittings and stuff like that to buy*
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail = $120
Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator (AEM/Aeromotive) = $130-180
Header = SixSigmaRace Engineering currently make a k20-EF header: ~$1000
or you can go Hasport=$400
Traction Bar = *You can clearance the front crossmember or you can purchase a Full-Race unit = $450
Gauge Cluster = JDM SiR unit or retain your stock cluster, thanks to John at ICON auto parts for the how-to:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7995
Hondata K-Pro = $850-950
Throttle Cable = EP3 cable works fine
Clutch Cable = Stock Works fine
Relocating the Brake Proportioning Valve
rotate it 90 degrees away from the shock tower towards the firewall. Watch the brake lines while you're doing this and help them bend without allowing them to crimp. It's pretty easy to do. You can take the stock EF bracket and mount it 180 degrees and then bolt it to the firewall.
Removal of Passenger Side Tranny Bracket
Bolt in new Hasport supplied Passenger Side Bracket using existing battery tray bolts. Then weld onto frame
Pics of the mounts
Driver Side Mount
Passenger Side Mount
Rear Mount: You can see just to the right of the mount the area that has to be clearanced for the tranny to fit
Pics of the cable-hydro conversion unit
A Fiber Images SiR style hood, with removal of the idler pulley (3-Pulley Setup) and the fuel rail cover, fits on the k20 with about a quarter to a half an inch clearance between the oil cap and hood. Thanks to Brian G at hasport for the pics
If anyone has any more questions, feel free to post. We are all here to learn. So hopefully this thread will help us accomplish our goals with a little less headaches.
Thanks to everyone who is making this happen...
-Julian
Hasport's Instruction Manual:
http://www.k20a.org/efk1.pdf
Also, you may want to check out Ryan from Rywire's walkthrough: http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/k20-how-to.htm
The necessary parts to accomplish this swap. (prices are rough estimates or what i have paid/read that people paid for there parts) This price list assumes you receive a complete swap including : shifter cables/shifter box, ecu, etc...
Motor of your choice:
k20a2 swap = ~$3500
k20a swap = ~$5500
Hasport Mounts = $650
Hasport/Rywire Conversion Harness = $350
Axles= EP3 Axles work, or DSS Axles starting at $400 for Stage1
Fuel Lines/Fittings = ~$200
*There are many different ways to setup your fuel delivery so I will not get into what fittings and stuff like that to buy*
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail = $120
Universal Fuel Pressure Regulator (AEM/Aeromotive) = $130-180
Header = SixSigmaRace Engineering currently make a k20-EF header: ~$1000
or you can go Hasport=$400
Traction Bar = *You can clearance the front crossmember or you can purchase a Full-Race unit = $450
Gauge Cluster = JDM SiR unit or retain your stock cluster, thanks to John at ICON auto parts for the how-to:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7995
Hondata K-Pro = $850-950
Throttle Cable = EP3 cable works fine
Clutch Cable = Stock Works fine
Relocating the Brake Proportioning Valve
rotate it 90 degrees away from the shock tower towards the firewall. Watch the brake lines while you're doing this and help them bend without allowing them to crimp. It's pretty easy to do. You can take the stock EF bracket and mount it 180 degrees and then bolt it to the firewall.

Removal of Passenger Side Tranny Bracket

Bolt in new Hasport supplied Passenger Side Bracket using existing battery tray bolts. Then weld onto frame

Pics of the mounts
Driver Side Mount

Passenger Side Mount

Rear Mount: You can see just to the right of the mount the area that has to be clearanced for the tranny to fit

Pics of the cable-hydro conversion unit

A Fiber Images SiR style hood, with removal of the idler pulley (3-Pulley Setup) and the fuel rail cover, fits on the k20 with about a quarter to a half an inch clearance between the oil cap and hood. Thanks to Brian G at hasport for the pics


If anyone has any more questions, feel free to post. We are all here to learn. So hopefully this thread will help us accomplish our goals with a little less headaches.
Thanks to everyone who is making this happen...
-Julian