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I have come into possession of a car tuned with an older version of kpro and am only able to retrieve the current calibration via download from ECU. I have read the warnings and many accounts of corrupt files doing things this way and in order to make my changes (replaced failed boost controller with 4 port hondata unit and oem map sensor with hondata 4 bar) I will have to make changes and re-upload. From what I have read, it would be fairly easy to spot a corrupt calibration however I have no experience tuning to know whether the calibration looks normal or not and am requesting help with this matter. My car has 650cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, and is a stock k24 on boost. i have included my downloaded calibration and I greatly appreciate any help with this matter anyone is able to supply.

https://ufile.io/vngvx
 

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Good Evening All,

Hopefully I can get some confirmation on this as I'm in a bit of jam.

When I first swapped my car 4 years ago I tried running closed loop with the stock narrowband sensor but could not get any A/F readings on the kpro for anything. Being that it was my first k car and, as eager as I was to get it running, I decided to just get the car tuned with a wideband and not worry about the kpro displaying the A/F signal.

Now I would like to connect the A/F wideband signal into kpro (via ELD pin E15) so it can capture the A/F when data-logging.

While going through the wiring, I believe i'm not getting sufficient voltage from pins A1 and A22. I'm only getting 2.1 volts from them which doesn't turn on my wideband which requires the 12V.

I'm pretty sure it's a possibility but has anyone seen an ecu go bad at these two pins? If so, is there a way to troubleshoot? Can someone confirm if there's supposed to be 12V coming out of these two pins?

What I've gathered so far is shown on the attachments and link below:



k20 ecu harness.png
ecu02.jpg
 

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While using k pro my iat values at the bottom are always red while watching the data but the values look normal for the temperature here. Do I have an issue with my iat setup? Engine is on the rich side if things. Cant seem to find any info on this.
 

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While using k pro my iat values at the bottom are always red while watching the data but the values look normal for the temperature here. Do I have an issue with my iat setup? Engine is on the rich side if things. Cant seem to find any info on this.
You can send me via email log and cal to check it out if you want.
 

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I have a question, okay so I’m doing a k20a2 w/z1 trans swap on my eg & It’s basically ready to start up but all I need is the ecu , now I called up a local shop that could provide me an ecu with kpro installed by them & they said the cheapest one they have to offer was an ecu from a base model rsx now my question is , is there a difference in using kpro on a type s ecu then from the base model or any other ecu ?
 

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No lol , my browser keeps taking me to the 37 or last page & not gonna lie I don’t really wanna click 47 times to get to the first page lol
 

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When you first click on this thread it should take you to page 1. There's also a button to go to the first page as well.

104294


Basically the only difference is the base model RSX ECU does not support reverse lockout, so 5th to 6th gear change may be a little more tricky.
 

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Ah, you're on mobile. Click on the "47 of 47" then type in the page number you want to go to.

When going from 5th to 6th you need to go straight down. Shifter is pulling you left so you're pushing right to counter. Without reverse lockout you may end up sliding right towards reverse while trying to get into 6th. It's not impossible to shift without the lockout, you just have to be more careful.
 

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Ah, you're on mobile. Click on the "47 of 47" then type in the page number you want to go to.

When going from 5th to 6th you need to go straight down. Shifter is pulling you left so you're pushing right to counter. Without reverse lockout you may end up sliding right towards reverse while trying to get into 6th. It's not impossible to shift without the lockout, you just have to be more careful.
I see thanks for the info I appreciate it , so there’s basically no difference between the 2 ecu besides the reverse lockout , okay I think I’ll just use the base model ecu , it comes out to be cheaper
 
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