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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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The main issue for me is just the shift lever offset - the kit I used places the lever too far to the right for me for comfortable shifting - especially for rapid shifts. The dogleg shifter is just to address that issue.
Very good. To keep the flow of torque, a shift process need to be seem less.

I cleaned & filled the old passages with JB Weld...
Thats a metallic particle containing 2 component glue?

I also installed the 4.00:1 ring gear on the mFactory LSD today - bolts torqued to 89ft/lb
Adaption of too much torque 😋. The gear cut is not curvy as it is with the OEM drive end wheel set. Do you expect it to be louder? I have no glue what the steep curvy cut makes different to the angled straight cut, but because of process cost for fabrication it has to have some advantages. I need to investigate this if none of you know it.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
I don't know the engineering principle behind one style gear cut to another - I wouldn't expect the change to result in increased drivetrain noise - that would suck if it does!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I don't know the engineering principle behind one style gear cut to another - I wouldn't expect the change to result in increased drivetrain noise - that would suck if it does!
I will ask my buddy, he is an transmission expert revising transmissions of VAG, BMW, Daimler, GM, ...since over 20 years. Maybe he knows it. If not I will ask another gear design specialists I have in my connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Very good. To keep the flow of torque, a shift process need to be seem less.

Thats a metallic particle containing 2 component glue?

Adaption of too much torque 😋. The gear cut is not curvy as it is with the OEM drive end wheel set. Do you expect it to be louder? I have no glue what the steep curvy cut makes different to the angled straight cut, but because of process cost for fabrication it has to have some advantages. I need to investigate this if none of you know it.
It is a 2-part epoxy intended for use with metals - some use it in aluminum intakes and even cylinder heads

I block-sanded the epoxy and I'm satisfied that the result will now seal

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This is the mating flange

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I also emailed MFactory and asked them about the change in gear cut design from factory angle
 

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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Busy day today. Got the water pipes fitted & the tunnel cover in place



Put foam under the pipe where it presses against the floor



2 1.25" SS clamps per side - screwed into the remains of the stock standoff



Set into the existing trough clamps



Closed cell foam at each end -



Thinner closed cell foam in the cover to press against the pipes



Cover in place, AC one clamps installed. Just have to make the lower end caps to close them off


After that, I finished welding the subframe and also the crack in the rear crossmember reinforcement. With that out of the way, I got the drivetrain back in the bay - got this far before running out of light









Put 12x1.25 time-serts in the rear cross member

 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Good progress HusseinHolland. I like the shelter and vibration damping of the coolant pipes. I can't see it really in the pictures, just out of curiosity, do the pipes touch the channel bracket cross bars or is there also a foam keeping them in distance to the bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Good progress HusseinHolland. I like the shelter and vibration damping of the coolant pipes. I can't see it really in the pictures, just out of curiosity, do the pipes touch the channel bracket cross bars or is there also a foam keeping them in distance to the bracket?
Thank you. The pipes are cushioned in the channel bracket with more of the 6mm closed cell foam, so they are isolated from metal contact

Today I only had time to install the subframe, then re-assemble the suspension, brakes and axles on the car, and start getting the coolant hoses oriented

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Thank you. The pipes are cushioned in the channel bracket with more of the 6mm closed cell foam, so they are isolated from metal contact

Today I only had time to install the subframe, then re-assemble the suspension, brakes and axles on the car, and start getting the coolant hoses oriented

View attachment 102980

View attachment 102981

View attachment 102982

View attachment 102983
The metal coolant piping is some nice work 👍 Progress is looking good ✅
 

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Discussion Starter #109
The metal coolant piping is some nice work 👍 Progress is looking good ✅
The SS coolant pipes are made by Brown&Miller Racing Solutions - a X1/9 racing team got them to pattern the pipes probably ten years or more ago - thankfully they kept the program file for them.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Nice insights to the X1/9 rear suspension 🆙. How stiff can a U-profile be for that task 🤔? The task is pull, push, twist. Without any crossing bars insight seems a flexible system to drive on slicks. Do you feel the flex of the rear axis?
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Nice insights to the X1/9 rear suspension 🆙. How stiff can a U-profile be for that task 🤔? The task is pull, push, twist. Without any crossing bars insight seems a flexible system to drive on slicks. Do you feel the flex of the rear axis?
Another pic of the arm construction - the balljoints are riveted and welded to the fore/aft arm intersection.

I don't feel flex, it is very taut. The usual problem with the rear is that you have very good grip right up to the limit, then you have none & the car will spin out. I have not experienced that personally, but those who race them hard make changes - heim links, etc.



This is what the actual Dallara rear suspension looked like - only pic I have, sorry

 
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