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Discussion Starter #81
Ok, I thought the glue layer would spread it, just because you have 3 density and transparencies: glas, glue, plastic. If I remember the physics lecture right, every density chance does a reflection and a change in angle if not hit rectengular. But maybe that is negletable?

Nice progress HusseinHolland 馃啓. Do I see there a crack in the lower frame strut (about 150 mm to the right of the lonely and unscrewed bolt left had of the vertical angled frame strut)?
Indeed, good eyesight! That is the last of the damage from the accident - it is a brace section I added to reinforce the crossmember -





I ground back the weld to make it look better - clearly that particular weld had not penetrated through, so when the whole chassis flexed going off road, that weld did not hold up. I have not found any evidence of any seams shifting or separating elsewhere on the rear, thankfully. Since that crossmember retains the control arms, if it had moved significantly the entire rear suspension geometry would possibly be out of specification.

I will be addressing that whilst the drivetrain is removed

 

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Discussion Starter #83
pulled the head off today - looks to me like there is a problem with the liners - there is a ridge I can feel with my fingernail between 4& 3 and between 3&2. I didn't pay any attention to what the block looked like after it was decked 600 miles ago when I assembled it. It has had coolant in the exhaust from the start.
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Discussion Starter #86
What could cause this after being machined recently ?
So turns out it's not as dire as I imagined - spoke with the machine shop. They didn't deck it when the bore & hone was done - I found a pic from then & I can see the lip.


He said a couple thou there wouldn't typically cause a failure unless the gasket was crap or head is warped. I didn't have them check the head back then, since the only reason I took it apart was due to rust in the bore, I presumed from the JDM supplier not sealing the intake or exhaust.

He lent me one of the certified flat bar stock they use for final decking. I went over the block with 180 emery liberally lubricated with wd40 (after blocking off all the oil & water ports) and was able to get the ridges gone without any drama, just about 1/2 hour - 45 mins work. Should be able to assemble the motor after work tomorrow, I hope











 

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So turns out it's not as dire as I imagined - spoke with the machine shop. They didn't deck it when the bore & hone was done - I found a pic from then & I can see the lip.


He said a couple thou there wouldn't typically cause a failure unless the gasket was crap or head is warped. I didn't have them check the head back then, since the only reason I took it apart was due to rust in the bore, I presumed from the JDM supplier not sealing the intake or exhaust.

He lent me one of the certified flat bar stock they use for final decking. I went over the block with 180 emery liberally lubricated with wd40 (after blocking off all the oil & water ports) and was able to get the ridges gone without any drama, just about 1/2 hour - 45 mins work. Should be able to assemble the motor after work tomorrow, I hope











Looks nice and even, wouldn鈥檛 have guessed it was done by hand. Nice job I hope the re-assembly goes smooth, the pistons look nice and clean 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Looks nice and even, wouldn鈥檛 have guessed it was done by hand. Nice job I hope the re-assembly goes smooth, the pistons look nice and clean 馃憤
Thanks - can't be done without the heavy certified flat block of steel - that makes sure that the sanding is even across the plane of the block, then it's just a question of lubrication & elbow grease :D

Today I started putting the engine back together - first I had to fit the KTuned elbow on the head, which required drilling & tapping an M6 hole, and tapping the EGR port off #4 to block that from the water housing (using 1/4" NPT plug)







OEM head gasket this time, no more DNJ



head positioned on the dowels at each end



head torqued to spec in 3 stages, 29ft/lb, 90潞, 90潞. I reused the head bolts - no stretching on any of them checked as per the shop manual

102887





Assembled the valve train & cams, (sealant applied to back edge of carrier that falls outside back of head)



Cam timing verified prior to installing the tensioner





marked chain links used to locate reference dots on cams & crank gear




Timing cover & mating surfaces all prepped, so tomorrow I can get the rest of it back together, then I'll pull the transaxle & install the 4.00:1 ring & pinion
 

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Thanks - can't be done without the heavy certified flat block of steel - that makes sure that the sanding is even across the plane of the block, then it's just a question of lubrication & elbow grease :D

Today I started putting the engine back together - first I had to fit the KTuned elbow on the head, which required drilling & tapping an M6 hole, and tapping the EGR port off #4 to block that from the water housing (using 1/4" NPT plug)







OEM head gasket this time, no more DNJ



head positioned on the dowels at each end



head torqued to spec in 3 stages, 29ft/lb, 90潞, 90潞. I reused the head bolts - no stretching on any of them checked as per the shop manual

View attachment 102887




Assembled the valve train & cams, (sealant applied to back edge of carrier that falls outside back of head)



Cam timing verified prior to installing the tensioner





marked chain links used to locate reference dots on cams & crank gear




Timing cover & mating surfaces all prepped, so tomorrow I can get the rest of it back together, then I'll pull the transaxle & install the 4.00:1 ring & pinion
Is the k24 now sporting the new head you picked up and had machined?
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
Very nice, now the big end power can come. Does your intake support this? Or differently said when does torque began to flat out?
I don't know what the final outcome will be. My intake is a modified RBB setup - intake runners are stock, then plenum/runners were modified to tuck underneath the runners.



I didn't want to shorten the runners, as torque is more important to me than HP. When the car is all back together next year I will get it dyno-tuned to refine the K-Tuner map.
 

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Discussion Starter #94 (Edited)
Finished assembling the motor - front cover installed, crank pulley torqued, valves adjusted





pulled the transaxle



dismantled,



stripped the countershaft & transferred to new countershaft - each gear has to be pressed in turn





retaining bolt torqued to 87ft/lb



chopped up a Volvo C30 shifter (on right, unusable stock Acura shifter that came with my JDM swap package on left) to use



heated and shaped the lever to dogleg it over to the left - so it will be centered in the console. C30 shift knob has the correct shift pattern to match the TSX 6 speed.



 

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I don't know what the final outcome will be. My intake is a modified RBB setup - intake runners are stock, then plenum/runners were modified to tuck underneath the runners...I didn't want to shorten the runners, as torque is more important to me than HP. When the car is all back together next year I will get it dyno-tuned to refine the K-Tuner map.
I am looking forward to see the result.


The shift knob job looks very nice. Did you see any wear in the gear wheels? How were the bearings sounding?
 

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Discussion Starter #96
I am looking forward to see the result.


The shift knob job looks very nice. Did you see any wear in the gear wheels? How were the bearings sounding?
The transaxle has about 60k miles, no signs of gear teeth wear and the bearings are good - no whine or shift issues that would indicate need for further dismantling.
 

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The transaxle has about 60k miles, no signs of gear teeth wear and the bearings are good - no whine or shift issues that would indicate need for further dismantling.
Thanks, sounds good.
Do you plan to improve the shift experience with all the modes you are going to implement?
 

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Thanks, sounds good.
Do you plan to improve the shift experience with all the modes you are going to implement?
I鈥檝e been researching the upgraded detent springs and the shift selector springs are worthy upgrades, I probably will be doing both in the near future. The stock shift box is a little looser than I care for. Mine may just be old tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Thanks, sounds good.
Do you plan to improve the shift experience with all the modes you are going to implement?
The main issue for me is just the shift lever offset - the kit I used places the lever too far to the right for me for comfortable shifting - especially for rapid shifts. The dogleg shifter is just to address that issue.

I鈥檝e been researching the upgraded detent springs and the shift selector springs are worthy upgrades, I probably will be doing both in the near future. The stock shift box is a little looser than I care for. Mine may just be old tho.
I haven't felt any issues with shift quality or detent 'feel' - all gears are positively engaged without any 'slop' or play - in my case it's just the lever itself, nothing internal to the transaxle.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Back when I I had to mod the AST5 casing to take the RSX shift assembly -





The problem with that is the RSX assembly flange sits directly on top of the old bolt hole at the right in the pic. It's been seeping fluid for the past 600 miles, so I figured I should try to rectify that whilst the case is apart.

I cleaned & filled the old passages with JB Weld - I'll sand & plane them to make a seamless seat for the shaft assy



I also installed the 4.00:1 ring gear on the mFactory LSD today - bolts torqued to 89ft/lb

 
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