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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
Wow, that's a lot of work on that front. I am looking forward to see it painted.

I hope the TB issues will be gone by the new TPS. Good luck with it!
Thanks! I got the K-Tuned TPS installed, sets properly to 0º throttle angle at rest stop without anyway issues. I had to remove the TPS connector from the harness, and repin for the RSX type S switch - and dropped the blue connector down into the bay... took me 20min to find it, had to jack the car up in the rear & hunt for it. Finally found it wedged into the balljoint/control arm.



I fabricated filler sections to streamline the nose/spoiler connection. The details around the spoiler/vertical overlap had to change. Cut back the existing panel to provide about an inch overlap for bonding the new piece flush with existing.





difficult to tuck the spoiler into place as is - the inner corners interfere with pivoting the uprights under whilst overlapping the outer ridges



sections bonded so I can move on to filler work tomorrow



spoiler uprights cut down to 2" to get it to tuck under. Still may need to angle the inner corners uphill to ease the fitment.

 

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Discussion Starter #62
Yesterday:



Also checking the marker/directional apertures. They needed several add/substract stages to get a better outline





then after that, some U-Pol inside the headlamp opening surfaces





then some filler primer to check overall lay of the land



found I needed to build up the left tuck under the marker - it sat back too far



Spoiler overlap - I need to build up the seams on the body side of the outlying junctions - I have to even out the gap along the rivet area







Had a couple hours after work, and the rain stopped, so I futzed with the spoiler/fender connection, and an air guide. My grille attachment has to change now, with the new inner verticals the grille won't align with the upper channel I built into the nose section



I may build up the spoiler side of the upright to taper it out to the overlap. There has to be a gap to allow for pivoting the spoiler in place.

Also some details to refine in the top of the support, I see.





chopped up a Volvo splash shield to make an air guide



Aluminum brace is needed to keep the spoiler from flexing downward

 

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Discussion Starter #63
Worked on the spoiler after work today - easing the transition from it to the fixed upright. Couple layers of bondo into it, some spot putty work also





had to add more here




Then I had to even out the center strip to eliminate an extra step that occurred when I bonded the Greenwood panel to the Volvo cover



Still more detailing to do. Now that the main form is done, I need to remove the spoiler & refine cut back & refine the mating ridge, and the center line. This part of the work I dislike intensely, it never ends. Fill, sand, fill, sand, putty, sand, prime, sand, putty, over and over :(
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Worked on wrapping up the main nose work & the spoiler connection.

Aluminum track to make the grille attachment





several layers of putty, sand, putty & prime later





Looks pretty good overall



have to address the rivet attachment to the fender skirts, and that's the worst of it done





 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Worked on wrapping up the main nose work & the spoiler connection.
Wow, great progress here. Thanks for the update. Are you satisfied with your new front pumper design and work?
I am looking forward to see your report about the idle thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Wow, great progress here. Thanks for the update. Are you satisfied with your new front pumper design and work?
I am looking forward to see your report about the idle thing.
I got it off the jack stands yesterday. After a minor adjustment to the TPS setting, the idle is stable around 975rpm. I can now lower it somewhat in software, the 80mm wouldn't idle below 1100rpm. It drove normally, with none of the previous problems, once I drive it on the highway tomorrow I can confirm whether the issue is fully resolved.

I want to drive it for a couple weeks before I pull the drivetrain & finish the undercarriage repairs. I do prefer the nose now, it's simpler & cleaner looking. Closer to the original Dallara design.





 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Finally got the nose finished, had to take it back after the first go around, to resolve a few small issues with the repaint.

102794


102795


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I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to work with than oldschool vinyl film, for sure.

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Finally got the nose finished, had to take it back after the first go around, to resolve a few small issues with the repaint...I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to work with than oldschool vinyl film, for sure.
You must be proud of that work. It looks amazing. I can imagine how delicate the decals affix work must be. I didn't see any guide marks on the body. Did you affix them free hand?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
You must be proud of that work. It looks amazing. I can imagine how delicate the decals affix work must be. I didn't see any guide marks on the body. Did you affix them free hand?
Thank you, guys.

Yes, the decals I do freehand - I made paper templates then cut from 3M 1080 vinyl wrap film. They are not perfect - I think every one has some sort of visible imperfection if you are within a foot or so - I have come to accept that. I am thinking of adding xpel film to the nose panel as it will get chipped pretty quickly driving on the highways here - much road debris/grit etc., as the roads are in poor overall condition. I don't think I can do that myslef, too many compound curves and that will have to be perfect :D
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Yes, the decals I do freehand...
Looks like a Fiat OEM fabrication 🆙

I am thinking of adding xpel film to the nose panel...I don't think I can do that myslef, too many compound curves and that will have to be perfect
Yes, the xpel film approach is more easy on flat surfaces. I think some experience and the right smoothing tools are necessary to get it unlined or air free at the bends of that chassis. Do you have experience with it's protection capability?
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Looks like a Fiat OEM fabrication 🆙

Yes, the xpel film approach is more easy on flat surfaces. I think some experience and the right smoothing tools are necessary to get it unlined or air free at the bends of that chassis. Do you have experience with it's protection capability?
I use it on my headlamps and other body areas that are prone to road debris - the rockers and lower fenders behind the doors. Those are not compound curves, so fairly easy to apply - you use isopropyl alcohol mix to allow repositioning. The nose would be very difficult.
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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I use it on my headlamps and other body areas that are prone to road debris - the rockers and lower fenders behind the doors. Those are not compound curves, so fairly easy to apply - you use isopropyl alcohol mix to allow repositioning. The nose would be very difficult.
Thanks for your experience. Doesn't it spread the light less focused if used on the head lights of the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
Started by removing all the electrics on Friday - so happy I made all this easy to unplug & remove







Yesterday I took the suspension and then the drivetrain out. Didn't need the hoist - just using a floor jack and engine brace worked, which makes it easier



progressively added additional 4x4 blocks, raising the jacks as I when, that gave me enough clearance to get the engine out the right side

 

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Your build is remarkable and your knowledge of the trades is on another level. Thank you for posting so many pictures and covering so many sections of your build. Nice ride !!
 

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Arouse the DAMPFHAMMER!
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Not if you use the clear film - I never used the tinted one - those will reduce light output based on % of transparency
Ok, I thought the glue layer would spread it, just because you have 3 density and transparencies: glas, glue, plastic. If I remember the physics lecture right, every density chance does a reflection and a change in angle if not hit rectengular. But maybe that is negletable?

Nice progress HusseinHolland 🆙. Do I see there a crack in the lower frame strut (about 150 mm to the right of the lonely and unscrewed bolt left had of the vertical angled frame strut)?
 
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