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Discussion Starter #21
  1. plugging away at the electrical wiring - laying out the EMS harness now that I have the various connections figured out. I made an bridge harness that goes between the ECU E, C201, relay box and EMS, so that everything can be unplugged if/when the drivetrain requires removal.

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    Now it's mostly just a question of connecting all the dots. AMP JPT connectors for much of this, simply because I have them & they can carry reasonable load. Using Yazaki 1.5 & 2.8 for sensors, signal wires, etc. that don't have the same load requirements.

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    15 to relay box, 15 & 31 for ECU fan and Fuel pump here
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    AC compressor clutch feed
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    ECU fan PWM connection HX 040 series
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    I really prefer these Yakazi 2.8 series terminals & housings (Many on my C30) to the AMP JPT - but they are very hard to come by. Surprising, since so much of the car is FoMoCo, I would have thought they would have been easier to locate.

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    Also putting a couple layers latex on the backside of the remaining Bertone floor mat to help hold it together & create a rubberized layer. Adheres nicely into the mesh grid on the back. Now I wish I had kept the DS mat - I might have been able to save it with this method. Just need it to last another year or so until I'm ready to install the new carpeting & mats from Henk.

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Discussion Starter #23
Wiring looks good, I can tell you're taking your time and doing it correctly.
Thank you.

Got some more of the EMS harness connected - these are all the signal/trigger wires that pass from theater-engine EMS harness through to the cabin via two connectors at that end. I bought these crimpers from Cycle Terminal back when I was doing the C30 AWD swap - to take care of the wiring needs for that.



There are issues - I found that I had incorrectly connected a wire on the cabin side of this harness - the one I need for the bay fan thermoswitch I mistakenly connected to the wire intended for the ACfan trigger - which runs all the way to the fusebox instead of terminating in the spare well. I'll have to switch some wires around in the cabin-side connector to address that. Thankfully it's just the that pair.

This stuff takes me forever. I've been spending days on making the wiring charts listing the different connectors and all the wiring on each side of every connector. I have to do it multiple ways so I can cross-check each wire as I actually connect it to the appropriate housing. Very time consuming for me. I tend to get dyslexic with this stuff & switch pin numbers/locations in my head or look at the housings from the wrong side when counting pin numbers. The convention seems to be pins are numbered starting top row left, viewed from the wire side of the housing. Some of the sketches I made, I had labelled them viewed from the terminal side or from the male housing, which throws everything off. Fortunately I figured most of that out on paper rather than after doing the wiring itself.

I've also been mulling over whether or not to include the ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit Honda builds into the EMS. The ECU controls Alt output based on a load signal from that. If I didn't include it, I would still have to figure out a way to 'fool' it otherwise. I chopped up the Acura fusebox & removed the section that houses the input battery/starter/alt cable attachment, with the ELD module. I considered mounting it in the spare well, which would have been easier, however the unit needs to monitor load before any consumers, or it won't operate correctly, based on what I've read about it.

I bent the left tab flat & cut off some extra material to leave two flats I could drill for studs



ELD module I/O to be addressed. For the trigger, I'm going to use the wire I had intended for the acfanrelay, since I've already run that from the trunk through to the Fiat fuse panel, so an easy extension out to the frunk from there. Other two are just switched power & ground.



it will go between the battery cable & my inline fuse









looks like it will be OK. Will need some sort off insulation/isolation on the underside of the left left for safety.



I shoved the duct hose into the inner fender, and found that the most I can get is about 14" forward - there is an reinforcing member below the targa sail that intersects with the inner fender & blocks further passage. Should be OK, still will be drawing air coming from either the gas tank well side opening or from the targa sail vent, I reckon

 

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Discussion Starter #24
The latex seems to be working for fixing the mat backing.

IMG-20200111-084148.jpg


It's holding the frayed edging nicely.
IMG-20200111-084158.jpg


Found I hadn't discarded the driver's mat, so I'm going to try the same for that. I'll add reinforcing webbing to the damaged sections of the backing, and laminate that into the backing.

IMG-20200111-084204.jpg


Test fitting the CEIKA brakes.

IMG-20200111-134725.jpg


IMG-20200111-142703.jpg


problem is the calipers won't clear either wheel style without 24mm spacing. I need them to redo the brackets and the hubrings to push the calipers back 12mm. I can deal with 12mm spacers, that won't mess with the wheel arch /fender clearance.

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Worked on the EMS wiring after that. Finished the final connections to the harness. The I/O for the reverse lights & brake input were the last

IMG-20200111-172405.jpg


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putting it all in place
IMG-20200111-174024.jpg


bracket & ECU fan secured

IMG-20200111-175559.jpg


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ECU in

IMG-20200111-183120.jpg


Relay box in
IMG-20200111-184142.jpg


Much wiring stuffed into this corner
IMG-20200111-184615.jpg


IMG-20200111-184621.jpg


Soon I'll get to this mess
IMG-20200111-184855.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Worked on figuring out exactly what needs to be altered with the BBK. 14mm pushback on the rotor hub, with the bracket moved to the backside of the spindle mount - with that I can get away with 12mm spacer for the wheel, which works for both style wheels.

IMG-20200112-135013.jpg


bracket needs caliper mount holes moved 4mm outward, with bracket mounted inboard. I cut 4mm off the inboard side to achieve that with the existing mount

IMG-20200112-134942.jpg




IMG-20200112-135714.jpg


rotor still clears the balljoint & steering arms on the spindle

IMG-20200112-140907.jpg


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Caliper clears the wheels with 10mm spacer, I can live with that.

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After that I installed the ELD unit and worked on the spare well relay box & wiring

IMG-20200112-150101.jpg


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added the ground circuit junction

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Finished the 8 pole spade bridge connector

IMG-20200113-142948.jpg


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only the OBDII port left now.

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ELD circuit wired to this point. Just need to figure out a feed that is not live in crank

IMG-20200113-180046.jpg


reconnected the battery - nothing caught fire or turned itself on, so it's looking good - so much wiring I wasn't sure I wouldn't have an issue

IMG-20200113-174914.jpg


reverse lights are fed from the ECU, they work

IMG-20200113-174849.jpg


Only thing I see is that I have the trigger for the ECU fan connected to (30) feed instead of (15) - it's not supposed to be live with key off.

IMG-20200113-174856.jpg


Have to get some gasoline, check the fluids, and then crank it over & see what's what :)
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring





secured with one plastic rivet



I'll cover it with carpet





made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40





Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel



reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage



all good now



Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work



changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times



After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.

These are the dead times for the 410cc rdx injectors I should have switched to before running it


I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ongoing discussion with KTuner, not really getting anywhere yet. When I emailed my data to the local KTuner dealer who installed the end-user hardware in the ECU, he was confused about the codebase, as it appears to be for DBW, even though I selected otherwise. Prolly won't get more answers until next week.

KTuner said:
You'd have codes for DBW if you loaded a DBW codebase.
Surging could be from not enough air passing, too much air passing, or the need to tune the fuel maps.
I used the 03-05 Accord (K24A4) codebase indicated in my screenshot, which doesn't say DBW like the '06-on.

I'm obviously going to have to research further for the surge, just trying to determine if the surge is causing the AFR sweep, or the other way around
:D


I don't have any codes for idle control (P0511), which were present before I fixed the TPS setup.

The other concern with that is that my motor is the K24A3 that has higher compression, full iVTEC on int/exh like the US K24a2, etc. Maybe I should be using a different codebase altogether? I'm not familiar with Honda product to know which US product listed would have DBC AND the higher compression /iVTEC to use as a base, do you have a suggestion for that?

I'm concerned that the codebase for the accord won't be controlling the iVTEC properly?



I found these descriptions on HybridRacing, so the K24A2 seems a match, but has DBW which doesn't work for my setup:



 

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Discussion Starter #28
I revisited the (K-Tuned) throttle setup, based on KTuner's suggestions of possible causes. I was able to get the plate better centered in the bore & set to just a crack off closed to prevent the plate sticking when snapped shut. Reset the TPS so it registers 1% as soon as the plate moves off the stop.


Still runs poorly with the Accord base (high idle, rich AFR's), so I tried the custom tune base. The main trim is set at 8 for the 410cc injectors in this tune.



With that, AFR's are better, engine sounds better. Idle is still too high, so I removed the air inlet hose & closed off the IACV port. That dropped the idle to just under 1700, that's an improvement! There are no codes for IACV, so I'm assuming it's just stuck open.



 

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Discussion Starter #29
Temps in the high 30's today, so I pushed the car outside to run it. I modded the RSX tune using the TSX VTEC settings & rpm limits & uploaded to the ECU.

After that I ran the motor briefly. Sounds good & AFR's are good. Only obvious problem is high idle now. First up I pulled the IACV & found the crappy seal was cracked, and leaking. With the two ports plugged in the TB, the idle was closer to normal.



after that, I ran the motor to normal operating temp - 180 something for the K24, fan cycled.



then I sprayed around the TB & intake plenum to check for possible air leaks. I did order a smoke machine - been meaning to get one for some time - but it won't be here for close to a week.

I got an idle change when spraying the right side edge of the plenum



unbolted the compressor, undid the plenum



have to remove the support backet also, all easy to get to with the larger opening
:)




Just have to ease the gasket out & new one in



I don't see any wear/uneven compression on the one I removed though



Put it back together, and it sounded worse! So, I took the plenum off entirely, that wasn't to bad either, just have to drop the alternator to allow removal







I found that there is a hole in the welds of the crotch between 1 & 2. I have to take the plenum back to the machine shop, that was one of the tricky areas I had him finish for me. I've also ordered one of the thermal intermediate gaskets (3mm), as I'm not confident that the skinny metal gasket is ever going to seal properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Dropped off the plenum to get the weld fixed. He gave me a section of quality gasket paper so I could make my own gasket. I may or may not wait for the thermal gasket. I'll have the plenum back tomorrow.



 

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Discussion Starter #32
Welded the bias bar sleeve to the brake pedal

IMG-20200130-174916.jpg


cut a slot for the bias bar to recess in to

IMG-20200130-175940.jpg


Worked on the MC mount plate mock up

IMG-20200131-075932.jpg


IMG-20200131-075928.jpg


Need to add ridge to make plate more rigid

IMG-20200131-090404.jpg


1.25" offset will be good

IMG-20200131-080116.jpg


3.25" height, 4.5" wide

IMG-20200131-090528.jpg


Will add webbing to support mount plate

IMG-20200131-090408.jpg


clutch pedal needs to sit approx 1/4" out for stop to sit on buffer/adjuster

IMG-20200131-094116.jpg


Bushing needs to be 6.375"

IMG-20200131-094232.jpg


Have to cut this out more where mrker line is to allow pedal to come forward / up

IMG-20200131-094726.jpg



Bought some 1.25" and 3" flat bar stock to work with. Then I remembered I had a spare eBrake pulley cover from the parts car, so I cut that down. Alrady has a nice rolled edge for rigidity

IMG-20200131-170806.jpg


Bolts will be welded in place - reverse position of what is shown here - no practical way to access the bolt heads once the webbing is in

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Welded the brake pivot extension

"L" section under the forward edge

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rear extension

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With V70 clutch master in place

IMG-20200131-173400.jpg


Have to cut back the bracketry directly under the bias bar - it is just touching on the midsection plate at full height

IMG-20200131-173100.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Wrapping up the pedal box welding. Required assembly/diassembly multiple times to check fit, clearances, adjustments, tweaking of clearance areas around the Bias Bar, MC fitment area fettling after welding, etc.,





bent pedal arm again to get 4" offset back. Can't be wider, just no room under there




























Brake lines from MC's have to go the this junction. Have to make those next. 3/-24 at MC to M10x1.25 (or is it 1.00 pitch, I forget) at junction

 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hose routing



or more likely



I made the brake lines yesterday, and finshed the layout today. The stock MC had two front outlets, so I needed to split the front output to two lines. I repurposed one of the stock junction boxes.

Cross-drilled the channels & tapped with 1/8 NPT to block it off



Blocked off one of the outlets



Lines done



Rear MC goes to the single junction. MC ends are 3/8-24, junction end is M10x1.25



Bracket will retain the two junctions











Spent a few hours the past couple days trying to find the cause of the P10009 Cam Angle code. As soon as the code is set, the cam stays in the full retard position.

I replaced the Cam angle solenoid, and rechecked the filter screen on the side of the head. After that, I looked further in to the software. The basic setting is this one:

I set it to 24º, taking these values from the TSX base code.


Today, I found the Cam angle map, and replaced the values in that with those for the TSX:



I hoped that would fix it, but it did not. What I found was that the other 25º cam angle setup found in the Accord, only had a 20º Cam Angle Limit. Since the map only goes to 20º, I figured that may be why the code is setting, so I reduced the limit to 20º, and that fixed it! Yay!

The car ran better off the line with the RSX map, which has higher values lower in the rpm & load ranges, so I will try adding some degrees back in, without exceeding the limit. I'm going to take it for tuning in a couple weeks, now it OK overall.

I've also had issues with the idle. Can't get the IACV to operate properly, so I have disabled it for the time being. The problem there is, if a code sets, the engine won't rev nicely, it stumbles & stutters off idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Got a 50º PND gear off an RSX. Not going to be happy with 25º limit of the RBB / TSX gear



Added a limiter pin, reduces max advance to 40º, safe limit for the 2.4 vs the 2.0



Set crank to TDC



Cams set



tensioner cover - removed and tensioner pinned to prevent chain extension



Cam caps off



Cam out, gear swapped, cam in. make sure my chain markers aligned



rotate couple revolutions, check timing again



All back together





also added iVTEC emblem to the trunk, and put on my new plates

 

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Discussion Starter #36
Worked on a new gauge pod. Not going to put a stereo in the upper dash.







M4 rivnuts









vinyl cover



Oil Temp, WBO2, 5bar Volvo gauge used for fuel pressure

 

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Discussion Starter #37
Wired the subharness for the gauges


Body side - power, ground, dimmer circuit for illumination, sender signals

Installed. Need to get black machine screws, the stainless isn't going to work for me

Finished wiring the speedo healer and put the console back in after making an adjustment to the shifter that was affecting the 4-5 shift. Darin - I'll test the Fiat speedo with this & see if in fact it will work. My tach has never been accurate, so you may still be able to do it this way (Punto speedo/X1/9 face)












 

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wow...fair play! so much fab work, makes my jetta seem like a breeze. like the home made bias pedal box.
not hugely familiar with the X1-9 but has great lines will be really nice when it is all finished.
keep up the great work and write ups.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Updating the thread:

Figuring out the gauge layout with the Marshall Speedo & Tach. Has to fit 15" x 4.125", difficult to get the 4 52mm in that space



in the low 20's today, but sunny & dry, so I took it out to make sure the new cam gear is good.











Still have to do the Dallara stripes - like this:





Got it on a lift after that, no leaks I can see



Main Cluster:

This is how I had it mocked up in cardboard - not going to work with my steering wheel



holesawed out the gauge holes, with the 52mm gauges reversed







Checking the gauge clearance in the aperture. not sure how I'm going to finish the surface, probably just clear coat. Still have to figure out all the idiot light arrangements






and so...



Wirign goes slow.







GPS sender for the speedo in on top of dash, not going to bother me there
 
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