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Discussion Starter #21
  1. plugging away at the electrical wiring - laying out the EMS harness now that I have the various connections figured out. I made an bridge harness that goes between the ECU E, C201, relay box and EMS, so that everything can be unplugged if/when the drivetrain requires removal.

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    Now it's mostly just a question of connecting all the dots. AMP JPT connectors for much of this, simply because I have them & they can carry reasonable load. Using Yazaki 1.5 & 2.8 for sensors, signal wires, etc. that don't have the same load requirements.

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    15 to relay box, 15 & 31 for ECU fan and Fuel pump here
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    AC compressor clutch feed
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    ECU fan PWM connection HX 040 series
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    I really prefer these Yakazi 2.8 series terminals & housings (Many on my C30) to the AMP JPT - but they are very hard to come by. Surprising, since so much of the car is FoMoCo, I would have thought they would have been easier to locate.

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    Also putting a couple layers latex on the backside of the remaining Bertone floor mat to help hold it together & create a rubberized layer. Adheres nicely into the mesh grid on the back. Now I wish I had kept the DS mat - I might have been able to save it with this method. Just need it to last another year or so until I'm ready to install the new carpeting & mats from Henk.

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Discussion Starter #23
Wiring looks good, I can tell you're taking your time and doing it correctly.
Thank you.

Got some more of the EMS harness connected - these are all the signal/trigger wires that pass from theater-engine EMS harness through to the cabin via two connectors at that end. I bought these crimpers from Cycle Terminal back when I was doing the C30 AWD swap - to take care of the wiring needs for that.



There are issues - I found that I had incorrectly connected a wire on the cabin side of this harness - the one I need for the bay fan thermoswitch I mistakenly connected to the wire intended for the ACfan trigger - which runs all the way to the fusebox instead of terminating in the spare well. I'll have to switch some wires around in the cabin-side connector to address that. Thankfully it's just the that pair.

This stuff takes me forever. I've been spending days on making the wiring charts listing the different connectors and all the wiring on each side of every connector. I have to do it multiple ways so I can cross-check each wire as I actually connect it to the appropriate housing. Very time consuming for me. I tend to get dyslexic with this stuff & switch pin numbers/locations in my head or look at the housings from the wrong side when counting pin numbers. The convention seems to be pins are numbered starting top row left, viewed from the wire side of the housing. Some of the sketches I made, I had labelled them viewed from the terminal side or from the male housing, which throws everything off. Fortunately I figured most of that out on paper rather than after doing the wiring itself.

I've also been mulling over whether or not to include the ELD (Electronic Load Detection) circuit Honda builds into the EMS. The ECU controls Alt output based on a load signal from that. If I didn't include it, I would still have to figure out a way to 'fool' it otherwise. I chopped up the Acura fusebox & removed the section that houses the input battery/starter/alt cable attachment, with the ELD module. I considered mounting it in the spare well, which would have been easier, however the unit needs to monitor load before any consumers, or it won't operate correctly, based on what I've read about it.

I bent the left tab flat & cut off some extra material to leave two flats I could drill for studs



ELD module I/O to be addressed. For the trigger, I'm going to use the wire I had intended for the acfanrelay, since I've already run that from the trunk through to the Fiat fuse panel, so an easy extension out to the frunk from there. Other two are just switched power & ground.



it will go between the battery cable & my inline fuse









looks like it will be OK. Will need some sort off insulation/isolation on the underside of the left left for safety.



I shoved the duct hose into the inner fender, and found that the most I can get is about 14" forward - there is an reinforcing member below the targa sail that intersects with the inner fender & blocks further passage. Should be OK, still will be drawing air coming from either the gas tank well side opening or from the targa sail vent, I reckon

 

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Discussion Starter #24
The latex seems to be working for fixing the mat backing.

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It's holding the frayed edging nicely.
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Found I hadn't discarded the driver's mat, so I'm going to try the same for that. I'll add reinforcing webbing to the damaged sections of the backing, and laminate that into the backing.

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Test fitting the CEIKA brakes.

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problem is the calipers won't clear either wheel style without 24mm spacing. I need them to redo the brackets and the hubrings to push the calipers back 12mm. I can deal with 12mm spacers, that won't mess with the wheel arch /fender clearance.

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Worked on the EMS wiring after that. Finished the final connections to the harness. The I/O for the reverse lights & brake input were the last

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putting it all in place
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bracket & ECU fan secured

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ECU in

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Relay box in
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Much wiring stuffed into this corner
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Soon I'll get to this mess
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Discussion Starter #25
Worked on figuring out exactly what needs to be altered with the BBK. 14mm pushback on the rotor hub, with the bracket moved to the backside of the spindle mount - with that I can get away with 12mm spacer for the wheel, which works for both style wheels.

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bracket needs caliper mount holes moved 4mm outward, with bracket mounted inboard. I cut 4mm off the inboard side to achieve that with the existing mount

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rotor still clears the balljoint & steering arms on the spindle

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Caliper clears the wheels with 10mm spacer, I can live with that.

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After that I installed the ELD unit and worked on the spare well relay box & wiring

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added the ground circuit junction

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Finished the 8 pole spade bridge connector

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only the OBDII port left now.

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ELD circuit wired to this point. Just need to figure out a feed that is not live in crank

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reconnected the battery - nothing caught fire or turned itself on, so it's looking good - so much wiring I wasn't sure I wouldn't have an issue

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reverse lights are fed from the ECU, they work

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Only thing I see is that I have the trigger for the ECU fan connected to (30) feed instead of (15) - it's not supposed to be live with key off.

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Have to get some gasoline, check the fluids, and then crank it over & see what's what :)
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Used a S40 wheel arch liner to make a cover for the EMS wiring





secured with one plastic rivet



I'll cover it with carpet





made a couple extra heat sheilds from some extra material from the S40





Have to add one more sheild for the rear body panel



reworked the heater hose feed elbow, it was sticking out too far & causing the heater hose to hit the shift linkage



all good now



Got all the drivers properly installed - had to reinstall the app with the ECU connected & powered for it to work



changed the injector sizing, but didn't realize the dead times had to be manually set - this is the stock 310cc times



After taking care of the cooling system I started & ran the motor for maybe a minute, and saw that the WBO2 was reading 10 (!) so I shut it down.

These are the dead times for the 410cc rdx injectors I should have switched to before running it


I'll reload the tune tomorrow, hopefully it'll be all good now.
 
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